75sv1

I thought reverse was a direct manual gear. I could be wrong. I'd unplug the trans control unit. Then see if it has the same problem. You will have to manually shift. Also, no down shift on the trans. So will have to brake to reduce speeds.

The buttons are 97-98 (possibly 96-98) and 99-01.

I'm on Rusty's adjustable short arms. No drop bracket. I got them used. I have ProComp front springs and Rough Country rear springs. I have a set of new JKS front adjustable control arms that should be going in this weekend. The rear springs were put in new a few years back. I had 6+ when new. They have settled to a 4.5-5.0 lift. I plan to put in OME 3.5 rear springs and a Boomerang shackle to get to 4.5 rear lift. I might go with another front spring. Yeah, that's about it. Still, some variance. I want to try the OME shocks in the rear vs Bilsteins. I do this with Bilsteins on my MB 240D. HD in the front and Sports in the rear. That is to help with the weight on the diesel engine.

I have the Bilstein 1500's on my XJ, for probably 2 years. Highways use and country roads. A touch stiff, but could be the RC springs. Also, its Jeep. I do have Old Man Emu rear springs and shocks to install. They are in the same price range. Since I haven't used them, I can't say either way. I believe them to be the same quality, but a bit softer. Haven't heard any complaints on them either. I am on a 4.5 lift.

HESCO makes one. I did buy one. Hornbrod I think had one on his MJ, and Go Jeep I think has one. I remember they had to put in a flow restrictor. So, I would not go that route. The WJ water pump will not fit. Or I should say the bolt pattern is a bit different. I think one extra bolt hole. One of the other bolt hole is off pattern. Also, I think it is reverse rotation. Try this and remove the fan shroud. I know others say you need it. But if it is interfering with the fan rotation, it might impede air flow. I had some issues and removed mine. The temps dropped. Also, then I would look at the motor mounts. If they are shot, then is the fan dragging on the shroud. Edit: did some web surfing. Motorad makes Hi-Flow Thermostats. PN 2000-195. Saw it on Rock Auto.

I'd also question the new water pump. I did have a '98 Neon that would all of the sudden over heat. I bought it used, and knw it had over heating issues. The water pump was old though. When I took it out, the impellor slipped off. Can't say that is your problem. Maybe try a MOPAR water pump.

Yeah, I got the two mixed up. This is where I was going with it. People have a lot of problems with the closed system. If you are loosing coolant, try replacing the radiator cap. Its a good idea to replace them every 3-5 years. I'd check what radiator AZJeff installed. Someone from out there installed a Mishimoto a few years back, when they first came out. Brought his temps down. He was running a factory HD Radiator before that.

Auto Trans? Open or Closed coolant system? Changed the pressure cap? If Auto trans, think about running a trans cooler. Also, Mr. Gasket has a large opening thermostat. Its a copy of the Robert Shaw. Also, Hessco radius the inside of the thermostat housing. You'll see where the 90 degrees comes to a point. Just round that out. Don't know if that helps much or not. I don't deal with the heat you are. OK, read you sig. Auto and 92 so closed system.

There was a write up on the MAD/XJ site about doing the reverse, ie late style flasher on an earlier XJ. You might find some info if you do a search. The site was abandoned some years back though.

Yes, Older fender with the older front header panel are correct. The newer washer bottle would probably 'fit', ie space wise. But the cutout in the inner fender panel is not there for the older models. I have not really looked much at that. Not sure what I'll do when I get there.

I started in on this. From my recollections, the four nuts that hold on the front header are in different locations. I think I was/am going to bend up some clips for the top two. Then relocate the holes for the bottom two. I didn't get to wiring. The headlights should be the same. The side markers I haven't looked at. Also, there will be missing material on the upper corners. The '97+ being round, the earlier being a chamfer. I planned to fiberglass then up and shape to fit.

Sort of the reason I own an '81 MB 240D 4 spd. If XJ and WJ, I'd add a ZJ to the list. They have the same basic mechanicals as the XJ. From what I see they go for less money. A neighbor picked one up with minor rust for $500. A few minor issues. I just looked at an '00 XJ with 215K, a few rust spots. Asking price $4,200. This was a dealer. No, I did not buy it.

I buy some of the worm drive ones from an Import Auto Parts place. Real hole in the wall. They are much better. I remember the sides being bent up, so it doesn't cut into the hose. I think European made.

I think there are some swaps with the Ford manual trans. I did take out the Renix wiring. I do have '95 wiring waiting to go in. I would keep the Renix wiring.

I tried a product called Ozium or such. It was in a 98 Dodge Neon. I was finding little cigarette in back of the dash. Sort of like a bug bomb. Spray it in. Close the doors and go away for at least 15 minutes. You might try it a few times. I think I bought mine at a True Value. The other posts on cleaning will help too.

And the numbers add to the scene. 1'69' and 9. 'Porsche, there is no substitute.' To bad they aren't U-Boat Commander quality.

My tow are there is usually plenty of space in back of what ever I am driving. Don't have to try and take off my front bumper to make the exit. Also, don't cut over three to five lanes as you missed your exit. Also, learn that there are other people in line when lanes narrow down for constructions zones. Don't speed up to the front, then cut in front of Semis. It slows the traffic flow down. I was so proud of WV last year. I was in the pre- construction zone, hanging to the side of a Semi, so people wouldn't cut in front. Everybody behaved and traffic flowed.

I couldn't open the link. Security issue. I have used silicone brake fluid before. This was before ABS was common. Only down side was suppose to be stiffer brakes when the temps got colder. Since your in CT, I would guess you'd have experienced that or not. I'd guess not. I did have a '98 with ABS. I did have activation of it a few times. Yes, it did work as designed. The first time I remember experiencing ABS was with a '96 Ford Contour I owned. I was driving in Chicago in January. There was a Fly Fishing show there. It had snowed a few inches the day before or such. I remember there was a small car on the north side of Indy perched on top a snow mound. Anyways, I was driving through a curve that went under an over pass. It went from pavement to a sheet of ice. I hit the breaks and the ABS activated. The rumble took be by surprise. But I kept in it. When I got through the over pass, there were three cars on the side of the road in the snow. I remember them being Late 70's to Mid 80's RWD.

I started this type of swap years ago. I did not complete it. I had to put a spacer on one side for the motor mounts, and cut and weld on ear of the other motor mounts. Drivers side I think. I put a '95 head on it. I remember mine be an '02 GC motor. I was thinking of running electric fans for cooling and keeping the accessory drive as the '02. There is a threaded boss in the newer heads for an Idler pulley. The intake was the newer 'horse shoe' type. There is a difference between the XJ and the WJ intake. The number of bolts to hold on the throttle body/transmission cables is different.

Yes, you could. But then you'd be ostersized from fancy dancy Jeep Meetings. You'd have to hang with MJ and XJ crowd.

I did have a Pace Setter on my '88 Comanche. It was Ceramic Coated. At the time a good deal. I ran it for a few years. It had a few chips on it, but no rust. I think good quality back then. I think some have had quality issues with them. Also, they , Clifford and Boral (?) had the ERG bung on them. I did buy a Clifford to replace the Pace Setter. I haven't run that setup though. Presently running a ceramic coated Doug Thorley header on my XJ. I like it. I bough a second one for the MJ.

I used to go to parts stores and look for parts for my '75 Bricklin. I'd use the cross reference parts. They come back with they needed year, make model engine etc. OK, 75 Bricklin SV1 351Windsor. Uh, what was that part number. Some places list parts for the Brick now. When I registered my Comanche, I was told I could register it as a Truck or SUV. It was cheaper for the SUV by $2-3. Only had to wear the seat belts though, back then. I did tell them it was a Truck, but was given the option. I registered it as an SUV. I was pulled over twice, because of the car plates. The first time I showed them the registration, and away I went. Then next time I had 24 hours to correct it. One of my brothers had a '72 SAAB Sonnett. A little sports car. I actually had position of it and a few others, until a few years ago. Crabby neighbor syndrome. Anyways, he pulled into a local SAAB dealer. 'Nice Ferrari." Oh, this is going to go well.

There is the drain plug in the 4.0L block. I think 8mm square. Really tough to get out. Some are afraid to remove them as the block may crack.

I did a search on Rock Auto. Timken provides info. 2000 flange offset -1.908. 1998 flange offset _ 2.133. So roughly .225 offset difference. So, figure 1/4 = .250. There is a .025 stack up variance. This might do for the OP with WJ knuckles, no spacer. I think my variance was 1/16 for the 07-08 Nitro rotors. Just have to make sure there is some movement of the caliper with new pads.

One concern is the non use of the 1/4 welded on spacer. Therefore the rotor is 1/4" inboard. You would need to add 1/4" spacer washers to the caliper brackets to get the correct stackup. I'll look at earlier XJ hubs. They are a bit wider.