75sv1

How much width difference? The Ford 8.8 is 1.5 inch narrower. I do not feel any tracking difference. And other ways to improve tracking. Do you lose or gain axle width if you swap on disc brakes? What size tires are you running? And manual or auto? I am looking at widening a future 8.8 swap on an XJ. I did get some 20mm spacers and ordered some 2.8" lug studs. The spacers are only through holes, and not the bolt on, if that makes sense. The stud I ordered from NAPA. If interested I'll get the PN.

I use Zerex Z05. I believe it is OAT. I read on BITOG that the newer green formulas are OAT. The Z05 is for aluminum engines. Ford and Mercedes use it. Sine I have a MB240D and a Ford Contour SVT, I prefer to use one type of anti-freeze. I would not mix any of the newer formulas. My neighbor works at a dealership. He said they mixed two different colors of the newer stuff and it congealed up. I thought the RV stuff was polypropylene or such. I think similar to Evan's waterless coolant.

This, and as to responses like it above. We have had some items missing in my neighborhood of late. So, if someone is snooping, they may be meet with more than attitude. See Eagles post. And once you cross that line, you have little chance of making a friends. If not there, maybe leave a note. I did have some cars covered at my place. They were Saab Sonnets. The lady left a note as her son needed a windshield for a Nissan 240, the newer ones. I called back and suggested Car-Parts,inc. The website, there is a salvage yard out by me with the same name. I bought some axles last week from them, and they are listed on Car-Part.inc, too.

OK, my XJ is running. I wanted to let the OP know that the ignition key and its electronics can be an issue. I am not sure of the older style of electronics for that. Also, as has been pointed out, ignition coils do go bad. I had one that was intermittent on a 78 Gremlin.

'-Learn to multi-task on the screen'. I forgot to mention to get two monitors. It really helps, especially with drafting. Does not have to be a big monitor. 17" will do. You can keep email etc. up on it. It also helps if you have to search for standards or other stuff for drafting. Computer software is already set up to use dual monitors. Just have to have the right cables. I think most new monitors come with them. Also, takes away the stress of the job. The drafting group I was in was the first in our company to do this. It was actually my suggestion. I had to print out and other stuff to reply to emails. I was checking drawings at the time. We were also going through a paperless process. I remembered one of my friends who did computer programming using two monitors to compare codes. A lot of those who rotated to other groups bought their own 2nd monitor. Monitors are relatively cheap these days.

The stand up desk is a good idea, or adjustable. We were suppose to get some, but that move never happened. A few drafting suggestions : get a 27-32" inch monitor. Get computer glasses. Maybe take eye supplements. Lutein 4mg and I'd have to check what other.

I have the WJ big brake upgrade. I went with Ruff Stuff's Chevy 1-ton upgrade. I think I have it under the knuckles. I did use Rusty's OTK Trac Bar. I do have an Ironman 4X4 Fabrication OTK Trac bar kit on order. Might look at Ironman 4X4 Fabrication. A bit $$$, but I don't think people complain about the parts. I have not run the upgrade 'Y' steering upgrades though.

I am presently working on a 2000 XJ. It would crank over etc. Everything but run. It did have issues with the front wipers. I did check with NOID lights on the injector plugs. They would not light, till I stopped cranking. I did try starter fluid. That did not help. I did try and trace voltage with some but not enough success. A friend suggested it might be the ignition relay, at the key. I replaced it and not it runs. Edit: Should be now it runs. I did check the coil(s) with an Ohm meter, as AZ describes and the Factory manual. I will be doing the Viper Coil upgrade at some point. Sort of want to see how that works out. Also, I will be swapping in an older head. So, the Viper Coil upgrade would simplify things.

I have gone from machining to drafting and now in metrology. I did gain weight. Went from a 33 inch waist to a 40 inch waist. It didn't help when I started drafting, the specs ladies were taking cooking classes. I would plan to do some exercise after work. I would take walks during break periods, lunch etc. While I was walking, a lot of the times I'd be figuring out work issues. Drafting can be challenging and or mundane. My main problem was/is keeping off the internet. I did get into some design work. Possibly a huge leap will be GD&T. That will depend on your firms movement to GD&T. My machining background helped. Still, it was and is a learning curve.

Here's a gear calculator I use : http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html I think the Jeep 4.0L likes to run at 1,800-2,000 RPM at say 65 MPH. Some will disagree. I was running that on 31's and 4.10, stock motor 2.5 exhaust. I did have some problems on some inclines on 79 in WV. I bored out the TB to 60mm. I didn't have problems with the inclines the next trip. Still, could use a bit more power.

I am going through this with my XJs. It depends on what the OP wants to do, and what area. Georgetown IN, he might be getting into some hill country. My present XJ driver had 31's with 4:10s. It did well in WV, after I bored the TB. I have 32's on it now. I think I need to regear to 4.30s. My present build will be on 30.5 (metric 215/85R16 or 245/75R16). I will be going with 3.73s on it. I am buying a D30 from a ZJ, and a Ford 8.8. I think I'd go with the AMC20 with 4.10s and do a search for the D30 on Car-Parts.com. Try ZJ and XJs. For some reason they do not cross reference the ZJ axles to the XJ. There are rear disc upgrades for the AMC20.

I've rebuilt a couple of gear boxes. You do need a dial inch pound torque wrench. A spanner wrench and then there is the sheet metal locking nut. I think I used a drift pin to tighten it. I'd check out Blue Top gear boxes for a rebuild.

Would a Boomerang shackle mitigate that? Iron Rock sells one, that has stock and 1" holes. Also, agree that new springs can settle down after a while. The 4.5 RC leafs were about a 6 inch when they were installed. Settled to 4.5 after a few years.

What size if the TB bored to? Has the O2 been changed? What brand? They do make adjustable MAP sensors. Or I should say an item to make the MAP sensor adjustable. The Stroker guys use them.

How much higher is the rear? You could use Cherokee shackles to 'delift' it 1 inch. The bump steer, you might look at Iron Man 4X4 Fabrication. He makes 'off set' track bar mounts. Says they help with bump steer. I get a bit of bump steer in my XJ, with 4.5 lift. I have the OTK track bar on order.

Check the steering gear box is bolted on tight. Also, there is a factory aluminum brace. You might upgrade it with an aftermarket steel one. Also, see if the gearbox is adjusted correctly. A lot of other stuff can cause this. And when it happens it takes other parts with it. Check the frame by on the drivers side between the Tackbar mount and the gear box. Edit, that should be 'check the frame for crack(s)....' . Pete M's advice is good. Need to check everything. Wheel bearings etc.

As for studs vs bolts. I was looking at getting the ARP studs. I do not remember where my info came from. Weather from the builder of my stroker motor parts or other sources. Unless you are doing supercharging or turbo, or very high compression, then you would not need head studs. The down side to studs is if you have a problem with the head while the motor is in, then it is difficult to get the head off.

If your track bar is lose, I'd start there. It's not fun driving with a lose or a track bar not attached.

Canada is one of the most expensive to ship to.

Where do you guys think the 'FREE" shipping comes from? Yes, the other guys pay for it. I do find FedEx to be the cheapest when shipping within the Continental US. To HI AK and US possessions, USPS. Also, USPS to Foreign countries.

Last time I tired to sell some headlights, they guy couldn't make a decision. Take pictures, take pictures. He wanted perfect taillights for $40-$50. I stopped picking up MJ taillights, as the price increased at the PnPs. That and dealing with Jeep people. Last parts I sold, I never got paid for them. Seems Jeepers go through divorce a lot.

https://www.morris4x4center.com/in4x4mation-center/VIN-jeep-cherokee-xj-1984-2001.htm?utm_source=cj&utm_medium=6146822&utm_campaign=cj&cjevent=3a0c6e75c59611e983d0012d0a240612

I did not. There is the threading fitting that the pressure hose goes to. That needs swapped in from the MJ/XJ PS Pump, so the threaded fitting on the hose can match up. Since you will be using your original Gear Box, you don't need to do anything there. I think the Durango/Dakota box is a direct fit, except for the spacers from the frame as stated before. I think the '70s Corvette had hydraulic ram type steering.

I looked at pictures of the Dakota pumps on Rock Auto. It looks different.

Did you look at the WJ pump? It does a bit better than the stock XJ pump. I don't know what the Dakota has for a PS pump. Some of them are set up for a snow plow.