75sv1

I prefer a manual. I have driven them on the column twice. Didn't get used to it. I also like manuals in the snow. I can wind up the RPMs a bit. Then let off if the vehicle starts to slip a bit. The 80's Corolla, I liked the auto. The manual felt plastic. The AW4 is a good auto, and well matched for the 4.0L in the XJ. I don't know if my Volt has a transmission. It drives from the electric motor only. One peeve with manuals is that 1st gear doesn't cover enough mph. Usually, they are just a bump start.

Thanks.

What about the hood? It has the hood vents like the Newer JKs. Look good.

Amber Fire. Some of the latter XJs came in that color. Some call it Burnt orange. Its sort of like the MOPAR pictured. I do have a silver XJ, OK just the body. I don't care for Silver or White.

I'll PM you my email. Then I'll send some pics. They are old pics though. I stopped picking MJ tail lights at the PnPs, while they were $25 each and the going price didn't justify the hassle.

Last time I tried to sell taillights, I think the guy wanted NOS for $50 a pair. I have some. Not NOS.

I could see you as a designer or prototype parts. Don't know if your present employer has that type of position. I would think you would need some Drafting (CAD type too), and possibly machining.

'.only for some cash buyer to swoop in and outbid me' Preapproved loan? Also, did you get any analysis as to what $/month your budget would be?

The 1966 version, I'd give them the Thumbs up. But I don't see any of them.

http://www.nwjeepn.com/SteeringGear.html I do not know how accurate the info is. I did search a bit before I grabbed a gearbox at the PnP. If you have any info otherwise, please post. Edit: I did read another post on this box. Some info has it as just a different ratio. ??? I do see some rebuilders adding in ports to them.

The Dakota box is a bit wider. You would need an aftermarket steering box plate. The snow plow version has a side port for the hydraulic ram to angle the snow plow. I think some use it to add hydraulic steering. I think around 98-00. There are some internal mods to get better lock to lock steering. Stock I believe you will lose turn radius. I did nab one and rebuilt it. As Minuit said, you do need to adjust with an in-lb torque wrench.

Also, there is a break in or install procedure. It might be from the FSM. Jack up the front axle, both wheels off the ground. With the engine running and PS fluid at full, with the steering wheel turn right and left close to lock to lock 3-5 times. Check fluid and fill. Repeat. Then lower front axle. With wheels on the ground, repeat. At least that is what I remember. I replaced one of my XJs about 2 years ago.

Thanks for the info. I planned to rebuild and upgrade a 2001 XJ harness. Wanted to put thicker wires in. This will help.

You need an Inch-LB torque wrench for some load settings on the gear box. Also, there is the large sheet metal nut to torque. I think the dial torque wrench is needed.

I'd also look at the P/S lines. I think the one that screws into the P/S pump has an oring.

mines 4.5" lift. And no I do not recommend driving without a track attached. Its basically, Russian Roulette. It was a Sunday and I was far from home. I did get to an exit and had it welded back on. That lasted and hour or so of driving. When they brake off, it gets interesting. I did roughly 20-30 mph down the side of the road. In some spots it was more like 10 mph. I parked it a week to get it welded back on. It actually, did well in the 15 mile drive. I took back roads as best I could. I think mine was a few items. First was a lose TRE. Taper was to big. Chevy 1-ton. The next is the frame was cracked a bit back from the gear box. Edit: I forgot to add that the upper control arms had the holes wallowed out. They were old style Rust's, and used. 1/16 sheet metal. I replaced upper and lower with JKS. I bought some CORE uppers to replace the Rusty's upper as I have a few other XJs to build. Also, my Trac bar is a Rusty's OTK. I do not see anything wrong with it. I did buy an OTK Ironman 4X4 tracbar, etc. See how that goes.

I rebuilt a WJ power steering pump, for a '98 XJ. NAPA has rebuild kits. The gearbox, I used a rebuilt unit from Advanced, as I needed the vehicle running. I did rebuild a Dakota box. Haven't installed it yet.

I've driven with the track bar detached. On smooth roads it was like a rudder on a boat. I could do 55 mph. If I hit a pot hole or something, not good. Long story on that trip.

I basically, did what the last two posters did. I have about 5 older cars. I put some money into them the past few years. It didn't work out well. One was my '98 XJ. So last summer I bought a used 2015 Volt with 33K on it for roughly $15. It has been reliable. Get around 40 mpg on the highway. I do run on electric back and forth to work. I did get my '81 MB 240D back on the road this past summer. Still. its getting cold, so the Volts has been the daily, this week. I did pick up two more XJs. One was to transfer the parts from my '98. Now, the other one is. Someday, I'll get back to the XJ. I will note, you will need to figure out what is possibly with your finances. So, that includes insurance, tags-n- title etc. But something that gets 35+ mpg does help. Still, I need the XJ (or MJ) to pack and transport stuff.

With the old one, I'd change fluid a few times. Use DextronII. If that doesn't work or improve it, I'd unplug the TCU (trans computer). See if reverse works then. If it does, then its electronics. Then you could try swapping in a valve body. If I was to swap in a used AW4, both input and output seals. I'd probably replace the solenoid valves from an 00-up AW4. They are blue green, instead of brown. I have done the TransGo shift kits. I can't say the basic one did anything noticeable. I do have the HD one in an XJ. A bit firmer shifts. I'd probably drop the pan and see if there is any black sludge in the pan. IE band wear. A '98 XJ with roughly 130K had some in the pan. Then next '98 with 220K had near none. That trans did leak, so I had an '01 rebuilt and put in. That one got the TransGo HD shift kit. I have an '00 XJ with 260K. I saw minimal band sludge when I dropped the pan, and replaced the filter screen. Also, clean the two magnets.

Looks like a Vector on stilts. Someways I like it, other not. Maybe the doors came from a Bricklin? Or a Bradley? Does look sort of like something out of a 70's SciFi movie.

The 00-01 XJs had R16 rims. They came in silver and a gunmetal gray. They are called Icons. I bought a set for the WJ Big Brake upgrade.

The 4:10 C8.25 can be found in 4 cyl XJs. Yeah, 3K RPM would be a bit much. 2,800 RPM would be a bit much for me, too.

Would 4.10 ratio do you? There are some 8.25s with that gearing for XJs. Then swap on KJ rear brakes.

I had to do spacers so I could keep the rear sway bar. I did run without the swaybar and had no issues. I did run 2" spacers and also no tracking issues. I have since went with WJ 5on5 on the front to eliminate the spacers I had there. I was running 15 inch Canyons by 8. I do have 5 to 4.5 adapters on the rear. I will try and eliminate them latter.