75sv1

This thread should cover your questions. The Link to the NAXJA thread should help too. I'd expect about $1200-$1500 cost in parts.

Do you mean kits? Most I see are not complete. Check out Ironman 4X4 and possibly Stinky Fab. I have done two of them. Also, the cross over steering using Ruffstuff 1-ton Chevy kit. I did mine from scratch, though.

On these stocks, I had to repair flaws in the semi-inlets. The Mauser had a crack in it. I hogged it out and wrapped it up with surgical tubing. The type -77 has some issues with knots and such. The Type -38 doesn't have much of a recoil lug. Its a 'D' shaped tube on the original that a round post mates into. I made a block with a hole in it. I epoxied that in place. I think I used JB Weld on that. My inletting was great on these either. So, I used the bedding to fill some voids. If used right glassing can help with accuracy. I did try on the Mausers to use a mandrel to keep the action straight, when bedding. I also tried to get one of the inletting screws to contact the mandrel, so the tang was support.

Of the glass bedding or the rifles? I don't have any pics handy. I have a Mauser and some Arisakas done.

Yes, wrong. Sorry, but also partially correct. You need the 00+ hub bearings. That provides the correct dimensional stack up of rotors, etc. You need the hub bearing spacer as you mentioned to keep the axle drive shaft U-joint in line with the pivot axis of the knuckle. You need two per side 1/4 thickness washers to space the caliper brackets if using the WJ rotor. Since you spaced the hub bearing out 1/4, the caliper needs spaced out 1/4. That does relie on the dimensional stack up of the parts though. I have used 07-08 Liberty or Dodge Nitro rotors. I had none to 1/8 spacers for those setups. I haven't seen a setup with the earlier hub bearing units. It would depend on finding a rotor with the correct hat height etc. Yes, I've looked.

I think you should be OK with a thick layer. JB Weld as an epoxy creates its own heat to cure. Or the process creates heat due to the chemical reaction. I do some glass bedding of gun stocks. Doesn't matter how thick the void to fill is. Some do use JB Weld for that too. I think I have once or twice too.

For an inexpensive solution, the Autopals are good at $50 a pair. They have twice the light as stock bulbs. Add in a relay harness and it doubles that. I am using Cibies though. Cibies, Bosch, Hella are quality, but $60-$70 each. I haven't tried the LEDs.

The height or with of them compared to earlier years. They are near the same height as the WJs. Yes, I did use '00 XJ hubs first. Then I did the front with WJ hub bearing units to use WJ rims. I'd look at Ironman 4X4 site. I think he states that some latter Wrangler hub units have a bit longer studs. Also, don't forget WJ ball joints and 1/4 width washer spacers for the caliper brackets.

Might try Iron Roc for a Hack-n-Tap for the 242. They also sell a custom length driveshaft(s). Others do too. I'm in the work for a 242 on my XJ build. A ways to go. Good to hear positives on the 242, also. I drive in mixed snow pavement. So, the 242 would be better for driving in it.

Some of them ship. Others do not.

Its the J.E.E.P. Syndrome. No cure available.

I've done 2, and then modified one to WJ hubs for 5on5 rims. Rotors, redrilled (Stink Fab has a jig) or 07-08 Dodge Nitro rotors. You need 1/4 spacers for the WJ Rotors and 1/16 to 1/8 for the Nitros. Spacers locate the Caliper centered. Some use Ford rotors. I question the diameter on these. The Nitros are about 1/8 less diameter so 1/16 less pad contact. With your plans, I'd feel better if you used WJ rotors. WJ Brake Calipers : Akebonos, not Teves I don't like the WJ Steering linkage, a bit thin. Also, some have used the stock XJ MJ. The taper on the stock TREs is the same. Unit Bearings, yes 00-01. I like SKF and Timken. NAPA changed from SKF to F(L)AG. yes no L. I think one of my new ones is FLAG, the other SKF. Haven't been on them yet. WJ Lower ball joints. Uppers are the same for WJ and XJ/MJ. Stinky Fab and Ironman 4X4 have parts and kits. https://ironman4x4fab.com/ https://www.stinkyfab.com/ https://www.car-part.com/ Good for parts search, some ship. Also, might try Row52. Some of the PnPs list pickers.

Yes, that was my intent. Good call as not to go down a rabbit hole. I'm not sure the Ford 8.8 stuff is the same. Here's a link to the Black Magic Stuff: https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/VANCO-Big-Brake-Kits-15-16-Super-16-and-17_c84.htm Cobra Marty Stuff: https://jeepm62superchargerkit.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html WJ Big Brake: https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1094759 Note: I didn't go over the whole thread. The first post or so, seem good as an upgraded over all system. I think I posted last. Presently, I am on WJ rotor and hubs, with WJ or JK rims. And NAPA mid grade pads.

I will say, I do not know what level you wound need for your intent. I do have WJ big brakes and OTK steering on my XJs. A '98 and 2000. I do have the Chevy 1-ton kit cross over steering from Ruff Stuff. OTK also. I went with Rusty's OTK Trackbar setup a few years back. There were not as many options at that point. I wanted rubber bushing for road going. I have purchased an Ironman OTK trackbar system. That will go on an '01 XJ, that will be my primary build. OK, my '88 MJ will get built Mo better. I do plan to trust up the Dana 30. On the '00 I did get K Suspension's Dirty 30's trust. An economy trust. I would get some stuff to beef up the frame around the steering box. Even with a WJ Big Brake conversion, I'd look at upper level performance brake pads. Somewhere I have a set of Black Magic pads. Wagner or is it Raybestos Thermo Quiets get good reviews, as does Hawk or EBC(???). Wasn't there a rear D44 in the ZJ with disc brakes?

I believe you need just one of 'the Cure'. I have not used one. I did have that issue though. I upgraded to crossover steering. You don't need to go that route, at least at this time. Pressure bottle is the coolant reservoir in the RENIX system. I'll try and do a search for closed to open. Others may comment. A lot of newer cars have a closed system. Edit: I'd try what is pictures with new heater hoses from later XJ. Also, an overflow bottle. Driveshaft(s) U-joints? New, greaseable? I might be tempted to remove the front shaft is 4X4, for the trip. A few more MPG, possibly. Front axle shaft U-joints if 4X4.

A few things I'd 'upgrade'. The steering box bracket if still stock. I might look into 'the cure' by Ruff Stuff if still stock steering linkage. Its a Delrin spacer, that is suppose to prevent the slight lane change this type of steering sometimes has. Steering Stabilizer new or recent? I'd get some AutoPal head lights if your still stock head lights. They are I think $50 for a pair, with bulbs. They give probably twice the light as stock. Some would go with headlight wiring harness upgrade or both. Both is about 4X the light. It will make a difference. Possibly see deer to avoid. Less strain on eyes if any night time driving. Some also go with LED head lights. Change differential fluids? Trans fluids? Radiator cap? Yes, radiator cap. Edit: OK 89 so the pressure bottle OK? Or might 'upgrade' to open system.

I have the Chevy 1-ton cross over steering kit on both of my XJs. Drives a lot nicer than stock. I do have IRO y-link or whatever. I bought it used. It is not installed. I think the PO had issues with it loosening up in the knuckles. For $150 and a days drive, I want to see what it will do.

As above, lube, plastigage. You will need the .003, smallest. Also, did you have the piston on too? I'd do the crank and see if it turns. Also, I believe you should torque the center cap first then rotate outwards. Check the FMS. Then add the pistons and rods into the equation. I'd also swipe the bores with a light coat of oil. I clean the bores first with ATF.

I would agree, that the OP should look at his present system. I went with the WJ Big Brake. My stock brakes on a '98 didn't handle 31's vert well. Yes, new pads, rotors and calipers. Might have been an issue with some dents in the knuckles. I'd probably try a dual diaphragm brake booster and some upgrades pads first. I'm happy with the WJ setup and the cross over steering to boot. Yes, a bit of $$.

Don't know if this helps : https://jeepm62superchargerkit.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html

OK, sounds like D. The article posted covers a lot of the culprits. From the pic, it looks like a little larger tires and no lift. ?? I would follow the article to an extent. Check tire pressures. Note if any cords are broke. See to get them balanced. If still, DW, rotate tires. Still DW, will need to check components. I'd probably do this before anything. Possibly an alignment. Mine was doing fine. It was rough aligned. Then I had it aligned and I had DW. I had a lot of new components. I noticed latter one of the TRE tapers was to deep, so lose. I did fix that and still DW. One of the control arm brackets had a wallowed hole, possibly both. I did upgrade from RC to JKS. A bunch of other stuff. For a while no DW. Then it started back again. It actually ripped the track bar bracket at the axle off. If you think DW is bad, doing 55 and then veering right quickly is even worse. Yes, in traffic, but I was in the right lane. I thought I broke the frame. Well, sort of the Issue. I had the bracket welded back on. It broke again. In the end, the frame was cracked near the steering gear box. What brand of steering stabilizer do you have? I'm running the OME. Might see if there is play in your present one. Detach one side. Push pull. Shouldn't move much if any. 1/8 most. Also, look into an alignment. They should check components if they are good. What area are you located? Some shops know Jeeps, others don't.

Although my experiences with DW might vary from Eagle's POV in some instances, I will say ' downright terrifying' is right. Nearly jerking the steering wheel out of your hand is close too. I will note, that whatever you are experience might lead to DW in the future. I am wondering if your vehicle is shifting side to side, abruptly or lane change. I'd check the trackbar bushings and mounting. With larger tires than stock, I went with a WJ steering stabilize shock. Some will say its a mask, or not needed. Also, the Y-link steering has its issues. Might Check Ruffstuff for an item called 'The Cure'. I haven't used it. I'd also look at Kevin's Offroad for items. Although your experience might be termed 'annoying', I wouldn't take it lightly. I had a stock XJ, and it would shift a bit. Usually, I could control it. I was on I70 Toll Road in PA. There were two Ford F450 or so class Pickup next to me in a construction zone, one with a trailer. So, the road was tight fit. I hit a drainage grate. It was either tangle with the trucks or up the hill. Neither a good choice. I held on and kept it under control. Also, check the frame around the steering gear box. On mine, that was one of the issues. Also control arm bushings. One mine the uppers had wear in the sheet metal.

True DW in neither 'spooky' nor annoying'. Its beyond 'annoying' to be riding a bucking bronco in front of a Semi doing 70 mph. Been there a few times. Stupid me. Still, I would be concerned that your situation does go to DW. Balance tires and check air pressure. Trackbar, ball joints, TREs etc. I'd even check motor mounts. Gearbox tightness, also replace the aluminum spacer with a steel one.

I'm running JK or WJ rims on one of my XJs. Spacers in the rear on a Ford 8.8. The front I did the WJ Big Brake upgrade and used a hub bearing for a WJ. I do have plans to ditch the spacer in the rear.

Not to your specs. Only things I could say to your specs would be the Carolinas or West Coast. West Coast = $$ and pay not as good. Id say Midwest. With money = travel. Plenty of beaches around the World.