75sv1

89 MJ, One point will be cost. With a stroker, you will need to do a complete rebuild. I cost me $400 to have my block prepped and machined. I did replace the crank in another motor. I used a used crank. I actually reused the crank bearings from the other motor. I did get new rod bearings. I don't know what is wrong with your present crank. Or what cranks will interchange between the years. Also, what time frame you need this running. Also, I'd factor in a new harmonic balancer and possible a timing chain set. Also, there is a rubber tensioner for the timing chain that should be replaced.

The Nickle Copper stuff is also called NiCop. Bends easy. Look at 'Inline' flaring tools. They work better than the older designs. They make them in Inch and Metric.

In the grand real of things, quality being equal, a stroker is probably not that much more. I would base your decision on whose stroker kit it is. HESCO or Russ Pottenger, then grab it. The guy on NAXJA knows what he is doing, (not me). There was a fitment issue on the timing gear. Caused the crank thrust bearing to wear. I would try and find out if the kit in question is a 'budget' kit (242 rod) or a 'long' rod (4.0 rods) . Also, what brand of pistons. That might clue us into who's kit.

Do you have the other piece? If so, I'd probably soft soldier it back in place. That is after it was cleaned. If a bunch of $$ is going into this, then I might search for another block.

I have used it in a '98 Neon. It used oil, so whatever was cheapest. Sometime I could get NAPA at $2 a bottle and once in a while Peak. I can't comment if HK is good or not. Rual King does have good prices on oil though.

The main problem I had, was the recirculating balls. You have to contain them with grease. When I did a Mercedes box, I had it in a vise. I turned for a moment and the shaft turned out. The ball bearing went everywhere. I would agree, the best is to get a rebuilt box. Especially, if its a one time deal and time is a factor.

Also, there is the 93-96 GC valve cover. You might find some on XJs. It is an aluminum VC with the latter 96-up style grommets. I have one on my 98 XJ. I did use the FelPro rubber gasket for the 91-95. I did adapt a '95 XJ onto my RENIX. I had to cut and splice the CCV tube, as the RENIX is in a different location.

I have rebuilt 2-3 gear boxes. You will need an Inch-Lb torque wrench to set specifications. Bean or dial type, not clicker. Probably on par to rebuilding and engine or transfer case. I did purchase a Box store gear box. Its doing OK. I'd check Blue Top or Red Top for gear box rebuilds.

Like Czechoslovakia, 1938 was it. Gave Hitler the means to produce better tanks. Then onto France. Every time we give, they want more. Then more. But don't want to fix the real problems. As for the 'need' for semi-autos. Some hunting is better with semi autos. 'Need' possibly not. But a semi auto may recoil less and keep you on a follow up shot. I used to repair guns. There were a lot of semi-auto sold in the lower South East. Their style of hunting 'needed' a quick follow up shot. Wartime bolt action came with stripper clip bumps. I thought that would be passé . Seems there is a certain type of hunting in Alaska, that this is still used.

I have RuffStuff's on mine. Its the GM 1-ton. I also have the WJ Big Brake. Also, OTK Track Bar. I don't think I have any dead spot. I have Canyon rims on mine, but had to use spacers. I went to 5 on 5 WJ rims last year. Still had to have spacers. I do have a set on 5 on 4.5 16" rims from the late XJs to use. I have another XJ, I will be building. I have been buying Ironman 4X4 Fabrication stuff. I have battles Death Wobble for a while. Their OTK Track Bar is 'offset'. Suppose to give a better length. Also, Ruffstuff sell a D30 gear cover kit for the steering stabilizer shock. I plan to use that set up. I bought some of their D30 covers on scratch and dent sale. Plan to weld on some tabs for the shock mount. When I first went with the cross over steering, it was smooth. I could drive hands off for 100 yards or more. Real responsive without the steering stabilizer. Edit: Also, check out Stinky Fab. I have not bought from them yet though.

I bought one, but have not installed it yet. You do have to cut the front plate out a bit. I don't want to do that to the Comanche. I have 3 XJs presently. I've added two of them in the past 6 months. The last one, a few months ago. It is nearly rust free. It does have some parts of the frame cut out. So, this will probably go on that one. The one cut is on the passenger side, where the front fender goes. I think that was to have a place for the a winch solenoid. The other is for access to the fuel pump. Also, the roof is slightly dented. I have other goodies that will go on the MJ. Ironman 4x4 gearbox brace and trackbar brace.

I put a set of these on for a 2" lift. Also, on the rear. I think the Dodge Dakotata rear is a bit longer. I use it for a 4.5" lift.

I've have/had two '98 XJs, both autos. I kid of feel there was a power difference between those two engines. On my present one I have it lifted 31's not 32's. I did bore out the TB to 60mm. That gave it more power. Then I installed a 62mm. Seemed not as powerful. It notice it on my WV travels. I went from Ford 4 holes to Bosh 12 holes. Not real change. I picked up an '00 over the summer. I have not had it on the open road, just around the block. It seems to have as good as power as either of them. I think what ever power they might have lost in the exhaust ports and cast exhaust manifolds, they made up elsewhere. Some say the distributor less ignition adds a bit of power. There is a Viper Coil replacement. I do have the parts. But have not replaced that yet. I am forgetting who I bought it from. Edit: K Suspension

Not an easy swap. And yes, I've tried and am trying too. The first issue is the motor mounts. I have gotten this far. The WJ vs the XJ/ZJ block, the offset of the diver's side vs the passenger side is flipped on one of the bosses. I created a spacer on one side and then had a mount cut and welded on the other(drivers side). The next is the accessory driver. This one is holding me up. The bosses are there to be drilled and tapped. Still, not sure I want to go there. Also, the water pump, the bolt hole pattern is a bit different, and I think the pump rotates in the opposite direction. I am planning to keep the WJ accessory drive and use an electric fan. My problem is I swapped on a '95 head. There is a pulley that attaches to the head. I'll have to weld up a bracket to place the pulley. Overall I do not think it is worth all the hassles.

I used to see about 5 of them every week, say 5-10 years ago. There was a Comanche Chief here for a few months. Could have been a Summer Intern. I think I saw one a few months back in a town about 15 minutes from me. I would say, that I see a lot of XJs. The Jeeps seem to have survived more that anything from the 80s and 90s, or ever '00s

With 32s was there a regear? As asked what problems? Did you check compression?

No, both were worn. I had to replace both the bearing and the crank. The block I scrounged the crank from, the bearings looked almost new. So, I used them. I did replace the rod bearing with new ones. I think that block is the one I am using for a stroker motor. Long story on that. Anyways, I do recommend replacing harmonic balancers as a maintenance item before this happens. I have an 2000 XJ, that I will replace the harmonic balancer soon. 260K on it.

Clevite if you can find them. Also, might check Stengle Brothers. https://www.stengelbros.net/INDEX.HTML

If your crank is moving 1/8, then it probably wore the thrust bearing. I had this happen a year or so ago. I had to get another crank. Fortunately, my neighbor had a good used crank. Even used the bearing out of that engine. Only suppose to be a few thousands movement. I used a High performance harmonic balancer ($100). Still, no real reason to spend that kind of money.

Another tire to look at is the 3Ps or 3 Peaks. They are a year round tire, but snow rated. I have a set of Falken on of my XJs. It did good in the few snows so far this year. Flet much better than the M&S tires, I had on there.

I prefer a manual. I have driven them on the column twice. Didn't get used to it. I also like manuals in the snow. I can wind up the RPMs a bit. Then let off if the vehicle starts to slip a bit. The 80's Corolla, I liked the auto. The manual felt plastic. The AW4 is a good auto, and well matched for the 4.0L in the XJ. I don't know if my Volt has a transmission. It drives from the electric motor only. One peeve with manuals is that 1st gear doesn't cover enough mph. Usually, they are just a bump start.

Thanks.

What about the hood? It has the hood vents like the Newer JKs. Look good.

Amber Fire. Some of the latter XJs came in that color. Some call it Burnt orange. Its sort of like the MOPAR pictured. I do have a silver XJ, OK just the body. I don't care for Silver or White.

I'll PM you my email. Then I'll send some pics. They are old pics though. I stopped picking MJ tail lights at the PnPs, while they were $25 each and the going price didn't justify the hassle.