75sv1

I would agree with your point that it is new. In my mind D30s with 4:10s would bring $600, or at least used to. The cost to regear might be the asking price. I think if you're looking for new, it would be a deal. Just, add up the cost of axle shafts etc. Then if you get one from the yard, as I think you are pointing out, what $$ is hub bearings, ball joints, brakes U-joints. Yes, I just went that route over the Summer.

I look at at Car-Parts. They did have two listed at $375. Then it jumped to $700. I did look at pictures on Car-Parts of a '97 ZJ D30. It did look to be LP. If you can get a picture of the lower control arm bracket. That should tell. Also, TJs had the cam bolt lower control arm brackets. Price without axles, would depend on weather I was to upgrade or put new ones in. Also, with the Hub bearings and brake parts.

I put one in an XJ, recently. The ZJ does have a cam bolt for the lower arms. Just be ware of it. It is actually a good feature. I did upgrade to an aftermarket bracket. I went with ARES initially. The guy doing the welding had some RE brackets, I think. For this build, they fit the bill. My next build will get the ARES. He also welded in washers to make the rear XJ adjustments fixed. I hear they don't get adjusted or are an issue for some shops for alignments. The XJ setup that is.

I think the bumper is $350 and the hidden winch is $350. I am after the hidden winch.

I looked at the D44 thread below. Gave info on using a Ford Explore bracket. I was going to try that. Possibly look at the WJ backing plate too. I have both at home. Also, I'll check the Isuzu D44.

Good info. I do know Warn makes a kit. I think $800. Some info on plates and Caddy or Samaria brakes. But a bolt on plate. I'll have to check out D44 disk from something. I do have an Isuzu D44.

http://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/front-bumpers/ used them for the inner frame rail stiffeners on an XJ. Good quality on those.

Another aspect of disc vs drum, the disc will retain the axle if the c-clip breaks. Or at least that's the theory. Any disc for the AMC 20?

https://www.facebook.com/Baddadfab/ Look at the pics and expand the replies by the orange XJ with the tube bumper.

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-bumpers/rustys-jeep-bumpers/jeep-xj-cherokee-bumpers/rusty-s-skids-xj-cherokee-bumper-skid.html ??? Looked at AJ's Offroad, not tube though.

'99 WJ the mounts are different. Not sure on the TJ, but 2000 would be my guess.

I'd say broke off. OK, or sheared the bolt. The darting tells me this. I had it happen twice. Check the frame by the steering box for cracks.

http://www.joesusedautoparts.com/ez-pull/ Joes' New Ringgold PA and Greble Myserstown PA.

https://wegotused.com/ Harry's. PA. There's another in New Ringold PA.

https://www.car-part.com/ There are two PnPs in Indy and 3 in Cincy. Use the Row52 thread to find them. Davey's Jeeps in OH and Western Jeep Parts near Evansville IN.

One of my Nefs was given a Sienna minivan for a first vehicle. He was the most popular during college. Could hual a bunch around the bar scene. The younger Nef was not happy that he got the Volvo instead of the Sienna. For my DDs, Chevy Volt, 81 MB 240D, 98 XJ (soon to be 2000 XJ).

A few things, as to manual or auto? That is towards what you will need to regear to. The other is location. I'm at 4-1/2 on an XJ and 32"s. In Indiana, its OK. I do travel WV, a lot more turns. Some hairpins, or Kissemhienie. So, for 33's, I'd go 4 inch lift. Still, a lot to beef up at that. Brakes, steering etc. Hey, I'm beefing up a 2" lift presently.

I have 8.8 in two XJs. I do run spacers on them. On one it is that I run WJ rims. The other I did put 1" spacers, and the studs are lengthened to go through all the way. One aspect of the Ford 8.8 is the diff is offset. It does cause some issue with muffler clearance. Not a huge problem though.

Really nice. I like the choice of wheels/rims and the caps.

Or they could even read "JEEP' on the tailgate. There is hope for America yet.

I have a 2.5 exhaust. Also, a Doug Thorley header. I think it does help. But it is a 'complete' system. I noticed a bit or real world improvement, when I bore out the TB to 60mm. Go-Jeep I think runs a 2.5 exhaust, except the tail pipe is 2-1/4. I have plans to run a resonator where the muffler is, then a Supertrap mufller at the end on a future build. That way, I can adjust the back pressure as needed.

I haven't seen any pristine MJs show up on the market. In the XJ market it drives up the price. Probably at least double.

Didn't GM have a cross flow head on their I-5, a few years back. I see this as more of finding someone to cast it.

Also, he will get you a setup to meet your needs. I didn't want the ultimate 4.6 stroker.. I wanted a street motor, to run on 87 octane. Pistons, cam, head CC, to achieve this.

Russ carries nitride Comp Cams. I believe he gets cams ground to his specs. Yes, good to deal with.