75sv1

Good info. I do know Warn makes a kit. I think $800. Some info on plates and Caddy or Samaria brakes. But a bolt on plate. I'll have to check out D44 disk from something. I do have an Isuzu D44.

http://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/front-bumpers/ used them for the inner frame rail stiffeners on an XJ. Good quality on those.

Another aspect of disc vs drum, the disc will retain the axle if the c-clip breaks. Or at least that's the theory. Any disc for the AMC 20?

https://www.facebook.com/Baddadfab/ Look at the pics and expand the replies by the orange XJ with the tube bumper.

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-bumpers/rustys-jeep-bumpers/jeep-xj-cherokee-bumpers/rusty-s-skids-xj-cherokee-bumper-skid.html ??? Looked at AJ's Offroad, not tube though.

'99 WJ the mounts are different. Not sure on the TJ, but 2000 would be my guess.

I'd say broke off. OK, or sheared the bolt. The darting tells me this. I had it happen twice. Check the frame by the steering box for cracks.

http://www.joesusedautoparts.com/ez-pull/ Joes' New Ringgold PA and Greble Myserstown PA.

https://wegotused.com/ Harry's. PA. There's another in New Ringold PA.

https://www.car-part.com/ There are two PnPs in Indy and 3 in Cincy. Use the Row52 thread to find them. Davey's Jeeps in OH and Western Jeep Parts near Evansville IN.

One of my Nefs was given a Sienna minivan for a first vehicle. He was the most popular during college. Could hual a bunch around the bar scene. The younger Nef was not happy that he got the Volvo instead of the Sienna. For my DDs, Chevy Volt, 81 MB 240D, 98 XJ (soon to be 2000 XJ).

A few things, as to manual or auto? That is towards what you will need to regear to. The other is location. I'm at 4-1/2 on an XJ and 32"s. In Indiana, its OK. I do travel WV, a lot more turns. Some hairpins, or Kissemhienie. So, for 33's, I'd go 4 inch lift. Still, a lot to beef up at that. Brakes, steering etc. Hey, I'm beefing up a 2" lift presently.

I have 8.8 in two XJs. I do run spacers on them. On one it is that I run WJ rims. The other I did put 1" spacers, and the studs are lengthened to go through all the way. One aspect of the Ford 8.8 is the diff is offset. It does cause some issue with muffler clearance. Not a huge problem though.

Really nice. I like the choice of wheels/rims and the caps.

Or they could even read "JEEP' on the tailgate. There is hope for America yet.

I have a 2.5 exhaust. Also, a Doug Thorley header. I think it does help. But it is a 'complete' system. I noticed a bit or real world improvement, when I bore out the TB to 60mm. Go-Jeep I think runs a 2.5 exhaust, except the tail pipe is 2-1/4. I have plans to run a resonator where the muffler is, then a Supertrap mufller at the end on a future build. That way, I can adjust the back pressure as needed.

I haven't seen any pristine MJs show up on the market. In the XJ market it drives up the price. Probably at least double.

Didn't GM have a cross flow head on their I-5, a few years back. I see this as more of finding someone to cast it.

Also, he will get you a setup to meet your needs. I didn't want the ultimate 4.6 stroker.. I wanted a street motor, to run on 87 octane. Pistons, cam, head CC, to achieve this.

Russ carries nitride Comp Cams. I believe he gets cams ground to his specs. Yes, good to deal with.

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/ I sort of followed this website. I have messed with a few of the upgrades. I have not changed out the cam. I'd have to check what cam I bought for my stroker. I think a Comp Cam 268 ??? from Russ Pottenger. I was not after HP, but a street able engine and MPG. My compression will be roughly 9.0:1. Some of this would be matching upgrades. I did put on a 2.5 exhaust, Thorley Ceramic Header, and the horseshoe intake. Also, Ford Injector. There was probably some power increase. When I bored the stock TB to 60mm, I did much better on some mountain inclines. When I went to a BBK 62MM TB, it felt rougher. Not knocking the BBK TB. It could have been other issues. I installed some 12 hole injectors. Initially, it seemed like a big improvement. Then it sort of 'lost tune'. I will add that regearing helped. I went from 31's and 3.55 gearing to 31's and 4.10 gearing. Big help. Sometime in that, I did a HnT. That helped a driveline vibe, and also, it seemed to jam up or lose power around 40 mph. Still, a lot to learn for me. Also, some other mods to test.

My memory is coming back. I think I've seen 'Brake" as at the flywheel and Specific as at the rear wheel. Or drive wheel for FWD. Also, Audi did a number on the competition in the was it TransAm events, late 80's early 90's with the Quatro. They were 200 HP less, and won all the races except the 1st. I remember 2nd in that one. So, some of it is getting the HP to the pavement.

http://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/cherokee-xj-comanchee-mj-parts/

Wait and see if it sells. Then offer $2500, or even less if it sits a few weeks to a month. Keep looking. There were some ??? on it. Surface rust doesn't scare me. A few heavy spot, neither. Also, post your location. It might help others to point to viable MJs in your area.

Derf, I agree with your posting. I just didn't want to quote the whole thing. As I understand it, a Dyno records a torque value. From there HP is calculated. Also, HP is a function of time. Torque is applied power. So, with my MB240D's all 72 HP, I can still go 75 to 80 MPH. It just takes me a bit of time to pass some. Also, I believe there are 5 definitions or standards for HP. The two main ones are Brake Specific (flywheel) and blanking on the other taken at the drive wheel. Auto makers use either depending if selling on performance or Insurance. Sort of to your point F1 engines are screaming at over 20K RPM to get their HP. I don't know how many gears they have. From what I read, very twitchy to drive.