75sv1

I've used a '95 XJ VC on my '88 MJ. I also upgraded to the larger CCV Tube and fitting from the latter XJs. I had to cut and splice in tubbing as the RENIX position of the CCV is a bit farther forward. On my '98 XJ, I use a 93-98 ZJ VC. It is aluminum and has the CCV grommets from the 96-01 or even latter 4.0L VC. I use the Felpro VC gasket that is a silicon rubber with a steel reinforcement for the earlier 4.0L. Its about $35-50.

There was a comparison by Blackstone Lab on their analysis. There were a lot of premium oils. They compared with three engines. One was a Subaru, one was the Corvette and I forget the other. Amsoil was one of the top oils. Rotella T6 was the other. Except it was not listed on the Corvettes. For some reason the Subbies will use Rotella out of warranty. Better to replace the cats vs the engine? Anyways, look for an oil with roughly 1000 ppm of zinc (ZDPP).

I've used the Rotella 10W-30 in my XJs. Yes, diesel rated. I've used the 15W-40. Presently the 5W-40 Synthetic.

I still doubt the HESCO and Flowkoolers are the same. From the pics I saw, Hesco has curved vanes. I don't think HESCO says anything about a restrictor. Hornbrod on this forum had the issue of to fast of coolant flow.

96 was the last of that body. The engine and some electronics changed.

I'd probably recommend a MOPAR water pump. I think someone on this site sells them.

I don't think the HESSCO and the Flow Cooler are the same. It looked at pics, and the HESSCO has curved vanes, the Flow Cooler straight vanes with a discs on top. I think they used to pop rivet a disk on. Looks one piece. I do have a HESCO in the box. I do hear you need to put a restrictor in the upper hose to slow down the flow. Also, another aspect as I see the OP has two with AW4 trans, is a trans cooler. Plenty of threads out there on this.

If the fronts are the same as XJs, I'd recommend Iron Rock Offroad or Hooligan. Although, I used Ruffstuff for the front. I like the quality of IRO (mid XJ) and Hooligan (rear XJ). I'll be waiting for Krusty to get his MJ's on the market. I have ordered the Inner Frames (XJ) from T&M and they worked well.

I have run Mastercrafts on mine XJ. 31's, a bit of road noise and puckered a lot. Had to rotate them. In happenstance, a coworker had some Falken Wildpeaks for sale. Metric 32's. A lot less road noise. 3-Ps so some snow ability. I did wheel them recently. They did well. I hanged with far more capable rigs. Then again a stock XJ ran with the pack. Yes, I'd buy them again. I'd 80-90% of my usage is open road. Some twisty sections in WV. Some have had good luck with Mastercraft. I have had good luck on other vehicles with that Brand. It is a quality brand at a reasonable price.

I'd also put in there to check reviews on Brands of Tires. I went from 31 Master Crafts which puckered and had a fair amount of road noise. I replaced them with Falken's, I forget the metric designation, but R17's and a 32. So much quiteter. Also, they are 3-peaks. So, much better in the snow. I finally went wheeling at the Badlands, Attica IN. It was NAJXA's Winterfest. Besides a stocker, I was probably the lower rung XJ out there. I ran fine, except a few mud pits. I ran Orange trails. I saw one or two with chains. So, might be a way to compensate for not having a better mud tire. I do not have spacers up front. I do have less turning radius. In part to the swaybar brackets I run.

On my XJ, I have a 4.5 lift. I had 31's on it. A bit sluggish. I regeared to 4.10s. Also, a bored TB with 2.5 exhaust. The bore TB really helped on hills in WV. I am presently on 32s, or such. A metric tire. Not sure if some electrical issues or such. A bit lower power. I would almost go with 4.30 gears. I think mine issue is a Transmission sensor.

Looks like some rust, but not bad. As stated before, could be worse on the inside. I see the one spot that looks like it is through. Take a pic of the engine bay. What's the asking price? Take a full pic on the truck.

You will need a harmonic balancer puller, about $15 or so. Also, an installer. I think kits are about $100. Might see about tool rentals at the parts store. If you could find a bolt with the correct threads and a bit longer than the stock bolt, it should work as on installer. Should be able to do with Radiator in, as mentioned.

Harmonic balancers are fairly simple, if you have the right tools. I'd also see about replacing the front cover seal while I'm there. I think you can drill some holes in the front of the seal, and then screw in a couple of screws. Then pull on them. If not, then just replace the harmonic balancer. I'd also question what brand of belt you are using? I'd get the Gates HD. I think NAPA is starting to sell them. They are green. I haven't installed the ones I have though. Also, go through any Idler pulley. See if the bearings are OK. Also, the AC clutch bearing. Although if that is out, I think you'd be frying your belt.

Sorry the car-parts.com links don't work when posted. Also, try Row52 : https://row52.com/Search/Index?Page=2&MakeId=155&ModelId=2938&Year=1987-1995&Distance=50&Sort=dateadded&SortDirection=desc&ZipCode=&HasImage=&HasComment=&LocationId=&V1=&V2=&V3=&V4=&V5=&V6=&V7=&V8=&V9=&V10=&V11=&V12=&V13=&V14=&V15=&V16=&V17=&IsVin=false They do have pickers at certain yards. See if they ship.

https://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

https://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi Also, consider what your deductible will be on insurance. Say, $500. That would be the cost of the parts. I've done two, and they were worse than Franksthedog. One of mine a tree fell on it. The one I have was hit in the front a lot worse. I did have to pull sheet metal. I doubt yours is much beyond the skin. If you hood is OK.

Check the harmonic balancer. They do go bad. I'd replace in anyways. Its a $50 part, new. If it is bad, then it can take out engine bearings. Yes, I learned the hard way.

If it didn't get into the frame, then repair it. Even then, I would probably repair it. Yes, I've repaired worse. I'd look at Car-Parts.com for parts. I'd say $100 for the fender, $200 for the header panel, with the grill insert. Radiator $100 new.

There's pretty pictures in the article. I will say that most people, what they have is gold, what the other guy has is dirt. Jeep Guys can be the worst. I'd say less than 10% will pay for quality.

Are you saying Us previous gens were just as stupid or more stupid than the current Gen? Its just we didn't document it? A million isn't want it use to be.

I looked at a chart. Its was 86 lbs vs 65 lbs for the 231.

I think a person could get some front fenders. The bed ??? Still, half done. I think its throw on some Big Tires, then a lift and call it a day. I'd agree little or no direction in the build.

The shot of the engine bay turns me off. It looks like little done there. Sort of dingy in a lot of areas, engine bay and others. If done nice, then it might be worth more, not that I would have the $$ to buy it. I'd have to say the same if it were an XJ.

I sort of disagree. It depends on how tall you are. I have a 2" XJ build. VS the 4.5 and the memory of a stocker, it seems about right for me to get in and out of. The 4.5" I have to scooch up a few inches. I'm 5'11". But that also depends on how proportioned a person is. I will say, usually, a lift looses MPG. There was a thread on Jeep.com. The OP managed 23.5 mpg on 31"s. It was a 3 inch lift. His thought was that over that, the pumpkins were in the airstream and would cause drag.