75sv1

I just had to look into this. So, I went on Car-Parts.com. I did a search on a 2002 KJ, and there were more than a few 16" rims, but no 17"s. Then I went to 2008 Libby. 17"s and even a few 18"s. Interesting. I don't know the back spacing, but I do use a 2007-2008 Nitro/Liberty front rotor on my WJ Big Brake conversion. Maybe a Slammed MJ with 18 inch low profiles.

'Trebi Trabant'?

I thought I posted on this. The 2000-2001 XJs had an option for 16" rims. I have a set on a 2000 XJ. I'm running metrics that are basically a 31 x 9.

No 'Herbie the Love Bug'?

Don't know if this is the one I was thinking of or not : 3-link v.s. 4-link - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association

4-link. I'd have to search to see if I can find it. I do have a lot of stuff from Ironman. Still, I do like the OTK Track Bar from Stinky Fab. IRO is good stuff. I'd say lower end of the premium. So, at or above RE or OME.

I'd say 1903 Springfield. Not expensive, not cheap. US made. Not the prettiest, but not ugly either. Don't see them every day.

I am wondering how to get as a group at the Jeep Meet? Yeah, don't want to fall in with the JK crowd. Or even worse, get attacked by a bunch of Chipmunks.

I just had the Ironman front kit delivered. Others I considered were Iron Rock Offroad (IRO), Stinky Fab and possibly Cav Fab. I think Dirt Bound has a setup too. Not an expert on this, though. I have not ordered anything from Cav Fab. I did not see Core made a long arm. I do have short arm links. I like them. At the NAXJA Winter Fest this year, there were more than a few who ran the IRO long arm setup. The guy in front of me had one. He had a nice XJ. He replaced a Rough Country with the IRO. Mainly, as he could drop the trans cross member, without taking the rest of the lift off. I went with the Ironman as it has a plate underneathe. It does cost more. Shipping time was I think 4 months, maybe longer. Clayton has a similar setup, but more $$. II did figure the full plate would replace TC and other shielding. So, it might be the same $$ in the end. Also, the Ironman is suppose to be adjustable if you want a Rock Crawler vs a Mud Bogger. There is a good write up on Radius vs 3-link vs 4 link out there on the net. Basically, Radius arms, meth. Not much difference between 3-link vs 4-link. 4-link a bit better. 4-link would complicate routing of exhaust and maybe some other stuff. At least that is what I remember.

I plan to go. I'll be in an XJ. So, no Comanche this year.

Mileage??? If no rust then why were the floor boards replaced?

PM me your shipping address. It will probably be this coming Saturday for me to get to the Post Office.

Would a lunch box locker do? I do run Ford 8.8 on my XJs. I don't mind the 8.8 Limited slip in the snow. I will say it does kick out a bit. Though I plan a 241 TC in the future. I have one, I am trying to rebuild. Other projects. I did use spacers on my present XJ. I used extended studs, then cut down a spacers. Thus avoiding the extra set of bolts. In some States spacers are illegal.

I do not know when Key part will sell taillights. I think just the driver's side would do you. It looks like you could repair the passenger side with some of the taillight repair tape.

I'd almost put Transformers on the list. Also, I would rate Ford vs Ferrari as 2nd to 4th best Race movie. I haven't seen Days of Thunder in a while. Well, since it came out.

Two I don't see mentioned are 'Grand Prix' with James Garner, and LeMans with Steve McQueen. My view is both are classics. Grand Prix was quite prophetic and well done for the time. LeMans while some pick as the best, has 5 or so great scenes with McQueen. Rest of the film looks like a documentary. One scene no words are said, but it is powerful.

I think I have an driver's side spare. My others are in pairs. I think you could repair the passenger side. I'll have to look at what I can spare and what prices with shipping. Probably $60 for the drivers and $140 for a set. Shipping was $20 to CO for a set. So, I'd think to Poland at least double that.

Can the OP take a pic of his taillights? I might see if I can spare a set. Also, the AX-15 and NV3550 will replace the BA10/5. I believe they do make a 2wd AX-15. Then again, a 4WD with a transfer case would work, just no drive shaft to the front axle.

On my previous post, that is 2wd for the MJ. I have two XJs. One of 32's and geared 4.10. Roughly 17.5 mpg, 4wd. I think the header is cracked, an auto. The other is 31's and 3.73, auto. I had a mixture of 17.4 to 18.3. The exhuast manifold was probably leaking. I replaced it with a header this past weekend. Still, need a tail pipe.

I ran some type of synthetic transmission fluid. AMSOIL but I think it was for a Ford FMX. I think ATF+4 is a synthetic. The factory fill is DexIII/Mercon I think. They do make some synthetics for that.

I did run 15x8 Canyons on mine. I had to use a 2" spacer though. I did not try and grind the calipers.

Also, I am running 16" rims, the aluminum ones from a 2000-2001 XJ. The 15" steels would not fit. Some do get them to fit. On my first setup, I changed to WJ bearing hubs and 17 inch WJ or JK rims. I run adapter spacers on the rear. Also, I had to get 45mm length bolts for the caliper bracket, since they are spaced out 1/4 inch.

OK, I've done two on XJs. Skip the Ford rotors. I think they are a smaller OD. Here's my list: WJ knuckles, duh. Get the 1/4 spacer for the knuckles. Weld them on. Plenty of suppliers. You will need WJ lower ball joints. Not on option. The taper fits the WJ knuckles, again Duh. The XJ, ZJ lowers have a smaller taper. Rotors, WJ rotors redrilled (try Iron Rock) or 07-08 Nitro rotors. 2000-2001 Bearing Hubs, I hear the 06 TJs fit and have a bit longer studs threads. Akebono calipers. They are latter ones for the WJ. For the WJ rotors, you will need 1/4 spacers for the caliper brackets. For the Nitro rotors, you might not need spacers or 1/8th spacers. I think that covers the WJ Big Brakes. You can reuse the stock steering and trac bar. I did not go that route though. Now the cross over steering. I used Ruffstuff's 1-ton GM kit. Reamed out the TRE tapers. I did them Under the knuckle both times. Also, they do make insert tapers. You drill out then insert these tapers. I did this as a repair and also on the second time I did this setup. Now if you go this route, then you need an OTK (Over the Knuckle) trackbar. The first time, I went with Rusty's. Its OK. I went with it as it had rubber bushing instead of heim joints. Color me stupid or not. I didn't like the 'exposed' bearing for a Daily Driver. This last time, I started to fab up a track bar. I was going with Rubicon Express track bar bracket and track bar brace. I was going to use Ironman 4X4 axle bracket. That bracket cause issues. The guy doing the work said a bracket like before, meaning the Rusty's. I ordered Stinky Fabs OTK setup expect the bar. That includes his tack bar brace. The axle bracket fits nice, and welds to the spring bracket, thus reinforcing both. I also had Stinky Fabs spring bracket fillers welded in. That and (i'm forgetting whos) Dirty 30 mini axle truss. I really like Sticky Fabs OTK setup. The brackets are 1/4. Another to look at is Cav Fabs. I do have Ironmans. I will get a bracket for the axel from Sticky or Cav Fab. Or possibly use the offset bracket I got from Barnes. It didn't work out for the setup for a Passenger sidie drop Dana 44.

Rush - best racing movie ever. There I said it. Before Gone in 60 Seconds or shall we say prequel there was the 'Junkman'. It has a Bricklin in it. So, Best ever. You have to have some kind of rating system.

Yes, I have. But not very fat, say 5 miles. I also transported a block about 15 miles. I used an engine hoist the first time and probably the engine block to get the motor out. On the engine block, they used an overhead hoist. It made it difficult to load in. The rear hatch was in the way. I would also look at a trailer as recommended above. They are not much to rent.