75sv1

I might go the T6. They do make a T6 in 15-W40 or so. Depends if the OP is using or losing oil or not. NAPA Gold, Wix, Baldwin. Even NAPA Platinum if the OP wants extended oil drains.

To me the descriptions need a little work. Even in the Restorable section. Say a rust free body or roller. I would prize that over a Modded but rusted runner. Also, there needs to be something between Fine and Very Good, or even above fine. Let's say "pristine' or Show room. Then Excellent somewhere in the mix. Also, milage effect the $$ on XJs, so that would include MJ. Still, it all depends to me on condition and not mileage. Also, does Renix vs HO affect price? Manual vs Auto? What $$ as to trim packages and accessories? A/C, A/C working or not? I'd say $500 on that one. 4 cyl vs 6 cyl? Long bed vs Short Bed. I have a long bed, but I think short beds are more in demand. More for wheeling.

Two issues I've had of running higher viscosity: one is a drop in MPG. The other in a Ford Contour is the lifters clattered. I remember the Oil being Mobil M1. Nothing wrong with M1.

I might replace the oil pump first. As suggested before check your oil pressure. If you go with a more modern oil, ie low Zinc I'd add a Zinc ZDDP (?) additive. I might check Brad Penn Oil or even Amsoil for a Diesel rated oil.

I would wonder about the Turbo used. In the Diesel world there are a Dual Turbo and Variable Turbo. The goal is to keep the PSI in the chamber a constant.

Good to know. Still, I used ATF+4 in an AW$ with no issues for a few years. Others did have issues. I did have issues latter with that trans. It was the rear speed sensor. So, not an issue with the fluid. Also, I run an Aux cooler. My next or project XJ is getting two coolers. One before the Radiator and one after.

Ouch, I guess I'll start looking in the PnP's again. I pasted some up a few years back. The price at the PnPs went up. I tired selling a few of mine, but its a PITA.

I'd also probably avoid a Full Synthetic in the AW4. The ATF+4 I think is a Full Synthetic. There are Dex2/Mercon that are Full Synthetic. I think some of the GM guys use it in some of the GM trans. Not sure how well they would work in the AW4. I would use a Full Syn in the TC case.

Also, plenty of others as mentioned before, plus Stinky Fab, Iron Rock, Iron Man 4X4 Fab, etc.

I have the CORE, JKS and Rough Country. My CORE are Stage 1. I like them and would go with them again. There are better, but more $$$. JKS are good too. The RC, the uppers have thin 1/16 sheet metal. That is to thin. The JKS is 3/16 and the CORE 1/4. Metal Cloak is a 1/4.

Also 2000+ would be WJ GC.

They are wider. I remember 5 inches or so. The knuckles are used for a WJ Big Brake conversion. I think some use the axle for a wider track.

Ouch on the EBay. I have a few sets. PM me, and I'll shoot you a price. I have some pics. They are not perfect. I'd say under $100 shipped. Hope this doesn't bust any rules.

In my experience, a leaking valve cover gasket causes an air pressure imbalance. So, the Intake air suction sucks oil into the air filter. I did struggle with this on my '88 Comanche. I think the RENIX system is the worse. I tried several cork gaskets. They would last maybe a month. I did get it cures, but then the master clutch cylinder went out. So, follow the Cruiser VC upgrade. Use a FelPro rubber gasket. Also, you could just put one of those Hot Rod VC filters on. That way, the Airbox is not sucking oil out.

Also, I use the rubber or silicon FelPro gasket. The cork ones lose compression. Or use RTV and get a good seal.

As others have said, need to do compression check. Also, where is the oil going to? Is it going to the air filter box? There are other seals that might need replaced. Front crankshaft seal, rear crankshaft seal and the oil filter seal(s). Also, what year? Really not much difference, but the HO valve covers are a bit better. I prefer a Valve Cover from a 93-98 Grand Cherokee. It have the CCV setup from the latter steel valve covers. Also, look at Cruiser tips to modify the internal valve cover baffles.

True that. Also, in the same county you might have different codes as to in the City or out in the country. Sort of a funny story. A guy I worked with was trying to build a large shed in town. His neighbor said he could not build it as he was on a Flood Zone. The guy came into work and was not happy. The micro fiche from 1930 plots didn't exactly show if he was on a flood zone or not. There was a small creek or more like a drainage ditch on the back of his property. He stated "If I'm on a Flood Zone, Gods going to have to prove it to me!' A shiver went up and down my spine. It rained 10 inches in the next two days. He came into work at stated "Well, God proved it to me. I live on a flood zone." The waters came up underneath his house. Probably 150 ft. As Paul Harvey would say, Now for the rest of the Story. Remember that neighbor. Well He build on with out a permit. I can't remember if they made him tear it down. Then latter there was a building boom. Some places that were designated as flood zones were build on. Yes, we had another 100 year flood about 10 years latter. People forget the fist one. The Second one, everybody has a story.

I wish they did a claim or trade for like. There were and are many XJs and MJs that I'd rather not see on the road. Also, a lot of other rust buckets. I wish I could have been able to swap my '98 XJ for a better one at that time. It also wiped out a lot of the lower end Auto Dealers. I think 3-5 just in my county couldn't get cars in the lower price range.

EvapoRust does make a solution for the coolant system. I used it after Prestone and Blue Devil. It drained out Black with a tinge of green. I am still have some 'dirt' issue. I think there is a build up on the rear 'cylinder' water jacket. I did run some Super Purple Cleaner water mix last night. Came out a bit darker than simple a water flush. I might try the vinegar as suggested. I have used Critic Acid before. It does work. Don't leave parts in these products to long. I left some bolts in for a few months. It solidified.

I did look at my 'HESCO' water pump. It did look like the Flowcooler impellor. Not what it should be. So, I stand corrected. I do use NAPA water pumps. Also, I use ZERX Z05 Coolant. Mainly, I have a Ford Contour and MB240D. That is the coolant recommended for them. Also, the instructions for it say you can mix it with a higher concentration for Higher temps. I do use the CFS all metal Radiator. I do not contend with the air temps others do though.

Better to drop it on your foot. Maybe it has Egyptian influences.

Sort of looks like an XJ. But its no brick. Here's a brick: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bricklin_SV-1

Also, maybe see what a shop around you would do it for.

I'd try heating it up with a Propane or MAP torch. If you suspend it up on the center, possibly the ring gear will drop off. Might need to lightly tap it to get the ring gear off. I haven't actually done a ring gear. Then flip and heat and put it back on. I doubt you will get it to hot with a propane or MAP torch. You might need to use an Oxy-Actylene torch. Be careful. I would evenly distribute the heat. I would not get it past a blue color. Wait to see if others have done this.

Can't you take off the ring gear and flip it?