75sv1

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/ I sort of followed this website. I have messed with a few of the upgrades. I have not changed out the cam. I'd have to check what cam I bought for my stroker. I think a Comp Cam 268 ??? from Russ Pottenger. I was not after HP, but a street able engine and MPG. My compression will be roughly 9.0:1. Some of this would be matching upgrades. I did put on a 2.5 exhaust, Thorley Ceramic Header, and the horseshoe intake. Also, Ford Injector. There was probably some power increase. When I bored the stock TB to 60mm, I did much better on some mountain inclines. When I went to a BBK 62MM TB, it felt rougher. Not knocking the BBK TB. It could have been other issues. I installed some 12 hole injectors. Initially, it seemed like a big improvement. Then it sort of 'lost tune'. I will add that regearing helped. I went from 31's and 3.55 gearing to 31's and 4.10 gearing. Big help. Sometime in that, I did a HnT. That helped a driveline vibe, and also, it seemed to jam up or lose power around 40 mph. Still, a lot to learn for me. Also, some other mods to test.

My memory is coming back. I think I've seen 'Brake" as at the flywheel and Specific as at the rear wheel. Or drive wheel for FWD. Also, Audi did a number on the competition in the was it TransAm events, late 80's early 90's with the Quatro. They were 200 HP less, and won all the races except the 1st. I remember 2nd in that one. So, some of it is getting the HP to the pavement.

http://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/cherokee-xj-comanchee-mj-parts/

Wait and see if it sells. Then offer $2500, or even less if it sits a few weeks to a month. Keep looking. There were some ??? on it. Surface rust doesn't scare me. A few heavy spot, neither. Also, post your location. It might help others to point to viable MJs in your area.

Derf, I agree with your posting. I just didn't want to quote the whole thing. As I understand it, a Dyno records a torque value. From there HP is calculated. Also, HP is a function of time. Torque is applied power. So, with my MB240D's all 72 HP, I can still go 75 to 80 MPH. It just takes me a bit of time to pass some. Also, I believe there are 5 definitions or standards for HP. The two main ones are Brake Specific (flywheel) and blanking on the other taken at the drive wheel. Auto makers use either depending if selling on performance or Insurance. Sort of to your point F1 engines are screaming at over 20K RPM to get their HP. I don't know how many gears they have. From what I read, very twitchy to drive.

My experience with Carlise is more pragmatic. Letort stream for fishing. Fly Shops. Building material outlets. If you are into Civil war stuff, plenty around. I'd probably see who is going to be there. List what interest you have. See where they are going to. I stay at Mom's when I'm in the area. Mom's serves me Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

I haven't been to the Jeep shows at Carlise. I have been to other events there. Its at least 80 acres, probably more. I don't know how much land the Jeep shows use up. The open swap meets, take me about 3-4 hours, just to trot through. I'd find stuff, that you were never likely to see. Some good trout streams and the Rio Susquehanna in the area. I used to live there. Keep meaning to go there when there is a CC Pow-Wow. Even the smaller event, like the Import Fest were fun to go to. Yeah, stuff you never new existed.

230 HP is possible with the stock motor. I didn't look at the torque curve on the motor. I do wonder about how that motor would function in the real world. I believe one of the limiting factors in the Jeeps the 4.0L is put in is the exhaust. Two 90 degree bends can not be good.

Stinky Fab and M&T make inside frame doublers with the bosses.

'75 Bricklin. Oh, I already have one. Maybe a n '81 MB 240D. Oh, already have one. What other money pit could I come up with.

When stock and running, I'd calculate 25 MPG. That is an '88 5 spd. Only mod at that point was a Pace Setter header. I think someone but 3.55 gears. I test drove by mile markers and figured my speedo was off a bit. No Tilted Kilt jokes. I figured 23 MPG by that.

I am running a similar setup on an XJ. I have regeared to 4.10's. I originally was running 31's. I have a 'sort of' 2.5 inch exhaust and header. Also, a '00+ intake. Then I bored out the TB to 60mm. Latter I installed a BK 62MM TB. I thought the 60MM ran better. I do have Falken Wild Peaks metric equivalents of 32"s. I sort of feels it needs 4.30 gears. Possibly an issue with the trans. I see a few other XJ owners who run a stroker and 32's. They seem happy with that. I'll be doing that on the next XJ build.

I've used 4-holes on two '98 XJs. They were Ford, that had been cleaned and rebuilt, but not matched. The both engines ran smoother. I noticed no power gain, nor MPG gain. Maybe a bit better drive ability. I presently have 12 hole injectors on one of the '98 XJs and a 2000. Initially, I noticed a power gain on the '98. I had issues with spark plugs though. Possibly a bit on MPG.

Looks clean from the pics, but not parts swapped and not fully finished. Check for rust everywhere. Also, the BA might not survive with that size of tire. I'd ask if it has been re-geared. If not, a set of axles from an automatic MJ would work. The front from and XJ. What lift? The front fenders would be $50-120 each to replace. Get a pic of the engine bay. I'd say fair deal, and possibly good deal if rust free. I'd value a rust free MJ frame at $2,000. Also, it depends on what you want this for. If a DD, then those tires will mess with your MPG. Also, then the steering needs beefed up. Yes, $$$. My gut says it needs $2000 more put into it. Take a pic if the steering links, and the underside.

On the rear hatch, try pushing in, and then the handle. Try a few times. Somehow mine worked out. Then I sprayed the latch. Also, had doors like that. They were more involved. Much better than what I've started with. Looks clean overall. Good fender, $90, Header Panel $200, Rear Hatch $100-$200. Clean interior, find better seats or a cover.

I had more time to work on the Jeeps. Lemonade taste great.

I use Rotella T6 5W-40 presently. I did replace all the seals though. I had used Rotella T-4 10W-30 conventional.

A thread I was involved in, the guy was in AZ. I remember he had one of the early Mishimoto's. It reduced his temps a lot. I asked what his previous rad was. It was a HD MOPAR.

Not to my knowledge. The coolant just transfers the heat better. In my application, a '75 Bricklin, I noticed temps went up when going over 55 mph. Yes, back in them days. Then went down after 1/2 hour at 55 mph. I use ZO-5 coolant in my XJs. Supposedly you can mix it at 75% for extreme heat. I have not tired it. I run about 208 F and might peak to 215 F. I'm in the Mid West so not an extreme environment.

There is a MOPAR Extreme Duty radiator for the XJ. It is made for ME export. I have run the Evans coolant. The temps will be higher. Evans told me that more heat is being removed.

https://www.custombatterycables.com/jeep-cherokee-grand-cherokee/ See if this works. I know I went off someone's site for lengths to build my own.

Yes, Russ's shop. Be prepared to spend at least 1/2 hour on engine oil and break in procedures. I have not completed my engine though. I do have mine set up for 87 octane. Heard the same about 505. I have had good ordering from HESCO, but nothing large. With Russ, he gives you options. Also, a build to what use you plan the engine to be used as.

If a stroker, I'd look at Bishop-Buell Racing. I think he can supply a full engine.

https://hardcoreoffroadpa.com/

I have a Logan's bumper on the front of my XJ. Don't know how close or far the Op wants to go. http://www.logansmetal4x4.com/ There are a few others in PA. I'd have to search for another I was looking at.