75sv1

I have a set on a 2000 XJ. I didn't notice any issues. I needed them for the WJ Big Brakes. On the rear I am running a Ford 8.8. I put on a 1" spacer and extended studs. The spacer was made from one of the standard hub centric spacers. Just popped out the studs and used one set of holes.

One of my neighbors has an airplane in his garage.

Monarch 10EE Metric. Working CNC Mill and Lathe. Running '75 Bricklin SV-1. Now if I had the money, AMC AMX-3.

Also, find out what blood type you are. In todays colas, there is usually something to avoid for each blood type. Maybe try a natural sugar cola. The Mexican sodas have natural sugar. I think a little alcohol is good or OK. 3-4 hard drinks , not. One glass of wine or beer is OK, possibly one hard drink. No driving, no firearms, no equipment. Also, 28-32, men go through a transition. If this keeps happening, look into doing a cleanse.

Is it losing coolant? I'd replace the Radiator cap.

So, basically, giving up 25K miles for a $60 part. I saw an oil test rating from Blackstone Labs. The T6 Rotella was near the top on two modern engine platforms.

Basically, that is when the newer oils were introduced. Also, see if that is when newer emissions regs started to take place.

This is basically for vehicles 2004 and newer.

I am taking it as the same year MJ or XJ. The WJ has an extra bolt hole and a slightly different bolt pattern. I don't want to get into that story, but I does relate to what I think you are looking at. There are to my knowledge two different heights of water pump for each year. I do not know why. Then there are the matching height pulleys. I have not run into this personally.

As above to the camshaft and springs. I am building a stroker. I went with Russ Pottenger. He did recommend aftermarket valve springs vs stock if going with an upgraded cam. The diameter of the springs are thinner in the aftermarket, so they do not bind. I would say a bore TB, a 99+ intake and some exhaust improvements will net some results. Also, you might check into injectors. Also, search budget stroker.

I like 'Pirate looks at 40' and 'Life is a tire swing'. Lots of other hidden gems. "Mother, Mother Ocean... you hide treasure most of us never scene, most of them dreams.'

I think Iron Rock list what their speedo gears work with.

But, Come Monday, it will be alright.

OK, since you all are crazy, I won't go insane. Just don't throw me in the Volcano. Or at least give me a Cheeseburger, since I'll hopefully be going to Paradise.

I remember when Tora, Tora, Tora was played on TV.

Congrats. Yes, I'm still learning after 30 years of work. Sometime, what not to do. I will say, you will use 10% of what you learned at school. Just don't know which 10%. Jealous of the hidden winch. I plan to get one for a present build. I do have the Boostwerks Hidden winch. It will go on another build.

'If you’re struggling to get the hub out of the knuckle, try threading the hub bolts back in a ways, but not all the way snug. Then you can beat on the already buggered up bolt heads with a hammer to knock the hub out.' A variation on this, is to put a socket on it. Then some pipe or other extension. See if you can get that to contact another part, and turn the wheel. Maybe you get lucky. I have been working on a D30 out of an '00 XJ out of the vehicle. I feared getting those bolts out. They were all loose. I still have to take off the knuckles and the ball joints.

My Brown Dogs are the rubber version. I did have issues with the clutch fan contacting my 3-row radiator. I was warned about this with aftermarket clutch fans. I use a MOPAR. I installed the Brown Dogs after that, too.

M.O.R.E. , Ironman 4X4 and possibly Stinky Fab have Clevite Rubber bushings mounts. They might replace the top bracket/bushing assembly. I hear they do transmit a bit of vibrations, but not as much as the Brown Dogs.

I have a Logan's on mine: http://www.logansmetal4x4.com/jechxjnonwib.html I am looking at the Bad Dad hidden winch, too. I do have a Boostwerks hidden winch steering box brace not installed for another build. A lot of neat bumpers out there, by smaller builders.

I would agree with your point that it is new. In my mind D30s with 4:10s would bring $600, or at least used to. The cost to regear might be the asking price. I think if you're looking for new, it would be a deal. Just, add up the cost of axle shafts etc. Then if you get one from the yard, as I think you are pointing out, what $$ is hub bearings, ball joints, brakes U-joints. Yes, I just went that route over the Summer.

I look at at Car-Parts. They did have two listed at $375. Then it jumped to $700. I did look at pictures on Car-Parts of a '97 ZJ D30. It did look to be LP. If you can get a picture of the lower control arm bracket. That should tell. Also, TJs had the cam bolt lower control arm brackets. Price without axles, would depend on weather I was to upgrade or put new ones in. Also, with the Hub bearings and brake parts.

I put one in an XJ, recently. The ZJ does have a cam bolt for the lower arms. Just be ware of it. It is actually a good feature. I did upgrade to an aftermarket bracket. I went with ARES initially. The guy doing the welding had some RE brackets, I think. For this build, they fit the bill. My next build will get the ARES. He also welded in washers to make the rear XJ adjustments fixed. I hear they don't get adjusted or are an issue for some shops for alignments. The XJ setup that is.

I think the bumper is $350 and the hidden winch is $350. I am after the hidden winch.

I looked at the D44 thread below. Gave info on using a Ford Explore bracket. I was going to try that. Possibly look at the WJ backing plate too. I have both at home. Also, I'll check the Isuzu D44.