75sv1

I was thinking of Bod and Doug McKenzie at the time.

Sort of like Hoser and Hoosier?

Sort of a simular issue on a 2000 XJ. I replaced fuel pump and all sensor except O2. Also, had a spare coil pack for it. I put a Noid light on the first or #1 Injector. Cranked, and cranked, no light came on till I let the key off. Then the Noid light pulsed. A friend at work said it might be the ignition switch on the steering column. I replaced it with a NAPA Echlin one. Took a few tires and some starter fluid. Then it ran, then ran some more, then ran on fist turn of the key. I also replaced the injectors with 12 hole ones.

Yes, differences between the 98 and 00 manuals. I like the 00 a bit better. The '98 didn't give a torque value for the end adjuster. So, just a since up. Then back off the 1/2". Said to center and then get readings of the pitman arm shaft in 45 degree sweep both sides. Then should be 6 to 16 inch-lbs. Adjust as needed.

I read the 2000 XJ FMS on this last night. Basically, you need to take the gear box out and clamp it in a vice. Turn the shaft to get the oil out. Then the main shaft needs tightened to 25 ft-lbs or is it Inch-lbs. Then as above, mark were on of the spanner holes to the out case. Measure 1/2 inch from there on the case. Turn the spanner hole to that Index mark. Torque the end nut to 80 ft-lbs. Then you need to center the pitman shaft. Count turn clock to clock. 1/2 of that number and center. Then you need to sweep each side off center either 90 degrees or 45 degrees. See what the inch-lb read is for each side. Then average them. Add 4-7 inch-lbs to that. That is what you will need to adjust the pitman arm torque value to. Adjust, and torque the lock nut to 36 ft-lbs. Best to read the manual. I'll have to see if there is a difference between the 98 FMS and the 2000.

I did adjust a steering box by the FSM. I don't like the first adjustment to the main or axial shaft. Tighten to snug or such. Mark line between box and adjuster. Then mark 1/2 away. Turn to that mark. Tighten end flange. Then you use an Inch-lb torqure wrench. Beam or Dial. Adjust from 6 to 16 inch-lbs in a 45 degree arc from center on both sides, so 90 degrees total. That is OK. I rebuild my MB 240D's box. The instructions were 3-7 inch-lbs for the axial. Then add 4-7 inch-lbs to that for the center. I will say, I did the adjustments and then checked to position of the center at a 1/4 turn. They way the OP did it was a bit sketchy though. Adjusting till it feels tight when driving. ????

Maybe its 'Special Trail Regulations'. Only Jeeps built before 1940-1/2 can use this trail. Others walk, maybe even barefoot.

Might look at this: The Cure! for Jeep (CJ, YJ, TJ & XJ) (ruffstuffspecialties.com) Also, you can adjust the steering gear box. Look at Kevin's Off Road. Basically, loosen the lock nut for the sector shaft (on top of the gear box), turn the adjuster screw with an Allen wrench till just tight. Then turn back 1/4 turn. Tighten top lock nut wit I think 75 ft-lbs , with out moving the adjuster screw. Yes, use the Allen wrench to keep the screw in place.

I have a Logan's bumper and a Bad Dad Fabs bumper. Logan's is out of PA, and Bad Dad's is out west, I think WA. Both might be able to custom fab something. Logan's does list one for the Comanche. The ends do tuck back for the newer style fenders though.

A Full Size Bed should be 8 ft. Enough to carry a 4'x8' sheet of OBS. I will agree the Maverick does not have a full sized bed. Still, the Comanche has a 7.5 ft. So, not full sized. So, I had to either angle the sheets or drop the tail gate. My MJ doesn't get 40 mpg. So, I do see trade offs. How many Full Size Picks running around hualing air?

As for the tiny bed, with the tailgate down and one of the flip over dividers, it would be 6 ft or so. Then with the tailgate down, does a sheet of OBS or drywall board OK? I see it as a multi purpose vehicle. So, some limitations.

But R' B-Ball skilz are dope.

For an Upgraded rubber mount, I'd look at M.O.R.E. or Ironman 4X4 Fabrication. Also, Possibly Stinky Fab and Iron Rock. Some of them supply mounts with a Clevite Rubber Bushing. I do have a set of the MORE's on my Comanche. I have not run it with them. I do have Brown Dogs on an XJ. I busted some NAPA ones and it bit into my radiator. I would not go with Polyurethane on a Unibody, except for swaybar bushing and some other minor stuff. Or at least have one side of a link with a rubber bushing.

Also, the gear ration would matter if Auto or manual. Then what size tires.

Also, various ratios. 3.73 and 4.10. And Limited slip on some or most. I have 8.8 on two XJs. I did space them out with spacers. I took regular spacers, tuened them down to 19mm or so. Used extended studs.

I read an article that it was a Hybrid, and getting 40 MPG. Unibody construction. HMM, very AMC of them. The bed does look better than the one of Ford recent offerings in the Explorer line.

This is not the DMC Club. Or were you going Rocky Horror on him?

Just to add. There is a Mustang rotor and caliper upgrade that uses the older AMC spindles. To answer as to the 2wd, needing the stub shaft. Since it goes with the WJ Big Brake upgrade, then the use of WK Knuckles and 2000-2001 XJ bearing hubs. So, the stub shafts would be needed to hold the bearing unit together. As for rims, I did run some 15" Canyons, but needed spacers. Then I changed to using JK of WJ 17" rims, with WJ bearing hubs, so 5 on 5 (??). No spacer on the fronts, but adapter on the rear. I did do a second XJ. The 15" steelies just would not clear. I use 16" aluminum rims from a 2000-2001 XJ.

I did go through a no start on my '98 XJ. I did have issues with it stalling out a few times before. I went wheeling early in the year, Winterfest. Plenty of water. Lost my muffler. I got the home and had the muffler repaired. Then I got it back home. Next day it would not start. I bought a new coil. When taking it off, I got a spark from one of the grounds. Yeah, I know I should have had the - terminal off. Anyways, I replaced both the coil and the alternator. I had a new one laying around. Rans good now.

Also, look at hte post below on 'Won't Start'. Check the fusible link.

Check the Distributor. There is an induction ring in there. Also, try and wiggle the shaft. I think specs are about .001". Also, I had issues with the electronic ignition block on the steering column on a 2000 XJ. Would not start.

Mine was on an XJ at 4.5, actually about 6" in the beginning. . The MJ has a longer drive shaft. So, it would depend on the amount of lift.

Rust, there is Rust, then there is Rust Bucket. Surface rust is OK. This also depends on your skill(s) set. I perfere to fix mechanical issues, Body work is not much in my Wheel house.

I have 8.8 on both of my XJ. Yes, the Purple one, PJJ. I used the flange so I do not have to buy a special U-Joint. I did a H-n-T on PJJ. I think when I had the 8.25 in it.

Another is the width of the dash. I was going to swap in a ZJ dash and steering column. The ZJ dash is a bit wider. The steering column projects a bit longer and deeper into the engine compartment. So, the shaft angle is not correct. I have seen writeups for WJ seat swaps in XJs. I want to go with that at some point. But, I do wonder on the seat height. At 5'11" to 6 ft, not much head clearance presently.