75sv1

I did just the WJ Pump. That made a difference. I was going to do it on my present XJ on 31's. My steering is fairly tight. So, I'm leaving well enough alone. Still, I'll probably use it on the MJ, when I get it going.

I haven't done the Durango box. I do have one that I rebuilt for this purpose. From my moch ups and web search, you need to space out the steering box spacer. Best to upgrade, as the OD of the Durango box is a bit larger. Also, the 1999+ Grand Cherokee WJ is a lot different. From what I see in the PnPs totally different Gear Box. I think the YJ and Full Size Cherokee boxes would work. They are beefier, have a 4th hole. I plan one on my next XJ build. Also, S-10 boxes.

I looked on Car Parts Inc., It separated them about '87-95. Never know why. I looked at Rock Auto. Showed 84-2001 as the same. So, I'd say it would fit.

I do have a set of RE front springs. I have not installed them. Still, they are highly rated. Old Man EMU, possibly Metal Cloak, Currie, but $$. Also, don't expect a bunch of HP improvement on the 4.0L. That is unless Stroker or forced induction. Although, some have upped the Fuel PSI, with adjustable regulator or a stock one with a higher setting. You'd have to search for the 99+ intake and Jordan88 on Mall Crawler.

RENIX will bore to 58mm. I think someone bores to 60mm. I think Leigh's.

The Grand Marque or Crown Vic as suggested. I think 25-27 mpg hiway. I'd also check out GM products with the 3000 engine. I think 27 to 30 mpg highway.

OK, Bore TB, yes, makes an improvement. I have a 60mm on my 2000 XJ, I bored. I also thinned the throttle shaft on it, last trip. I seemed a bit better. I seem to notice the improvement on going up inclines. I also have the 99+ intake on my '98 XJ. 4.10's with 31's is good. I do have the Ironman steering brace. It is beefy. I did run if for a while on my '98 XJ. Yes, get a steel steering box spacer. Iron Rock or Ironman are good ones. I think the Ironman one is a bit better. It has a 4th hole. Have you replaced spark plugs and O2 sensor(s)? Wires, cap and rotor replace with brass ones. Also, the temp sensor in the thermostat housing? Check fuel pressure?

I'll have to let you know next time I'm in town. Also, there is a Comanche on the way to Elkins.

I used NGK on my '98 and 2000 XJs. I did have Champion Truck Plugs in the '98. I think the insulators break very easy. I think they have obsoleted them or NAPA stopped carrying them. For wire: Magnecor USA – Spark Plug Wires Still, Some of the Performance wires, Taylor, Morso etc. would be good. Also, get cap and rotor with brass.

6 post down from the top of this the Pub Section. I'm in Indiana. I do have property in Webster Springs.

First, what year? That has a dependence on wheel bearings or hub bearing. If hub bearings, I like SKF and (ok brain freeze). Then NAPA has F(L)AG. It is not their top of the line. I think I have one of them and an SKF on my 2000 XJ. I bought a set of ball joints off of E-Bay. I have not installed them. Metal construction and US made. I have used Alloy USA, M (ok blanking again) TTKs and XFRs. There's another brand I think I'd try after a discussion or thread on another site. I have not had any issues with those I've listed. The XFR, I do not like the grease joints provided and their placement. Synergy and Terra Flex(???) had better zerke fitting placement from pictures. Synergy and Terra Flex(???) have the option of non serrated or splines ball joints. So, just like stock.

Also, I'd expect you to be at 2300 rpm at 70 mph with 3.73's and the manual. I'm at 2200, with an auto.

Since your in Montana, I think the 3.73 might work out better for you. My experiences are with auto trans and WV. On The same tire I have 3.73's with an auto. A bit weak on some mountain inclines. Intake and exhaust improvements help. This is on a 2000 XJ. I still have a few inclines that I need to drop down from D to 3rd. On a '98, I had a similar problem, with 4.10's and 31's. I did basically, the same exhaust intake improvements. It ran good. So, since I think you will have some mountain passes to get over, I think the 3.73's with your manual would work out better. You might loose a bit of MPG. my though is 1/2 MPG. My intake and exhaust improvements are, bore to 60mm TB, 2.5 cat back, 99+ intake and a header.

No, I used their Drive Side drop. It might or should work. They guy who does my fabbing, has it set up, just not welded. I think TnT ot Artec said to use their Ford Truss as a universal.

Yes, that is my plan. I also plan to run the exhaust straight back. I think the OP should look at a trust setup to adapt the Waggy 44. Barnes, Tnt and Artec, I think make truss kits for the driver side drop Waggy 44.

I have Bilstien 5100 on an XJ, a bit stiff for road use to me. I also have KYB Monomax on another XJ, a bit less stiff than Bil 5100s. Still, stiff though. I did have some KYB silver shocks (stock) on a stock XJ. A bit stiffer than stock, but controller that XJ well. I think I had TJ take offs on the rear of that one. I might look at Bilstein 4300 or Doetsch-Tech. I haven't used them though.

I've been in the process of this for several years. Part of my issue is that mine Waggy 44 is a passenger side drop. No one makes a setup for that. I went with Barnes on for the Drive side drop. I have someone working on it. I plan to keep the 6 on 5. I did not read the others articles.

I'd also check the master cylinder. There is a seal at the Booster end.

Kind of fitting on a Jeep board. I see a fair number of XJs on the road. Look at other makes. I use to see some MB W123's around. Now mine gets a few looks. My oldest is a 75. Newest a 2015 Volt. I will agree with the cost of new vehicles.

I might also look into some steering upgrades. If I did a lift, it would only be 2". With spacers for a Ford 8.8, I'd make captured ones, so the need for extended stud screws. Or Yukon makes an upgraded axle shafts. They extend out 1" on each side.

I have a 2" lift XJ with the 4.0L and auto trans 31" tires. I have looked into a WJ sway bar for another reason. I have frame stiffeners and a Bad Dad Fab hidden winch bumper installed. So, my stock sway bar rubs on the hidden winch cradle or frame. I have KYB Monomax front shocks and some white box ones for the rear. The Monomax are almost as stiff as Bilstein 5100's. The rears are probably like Rancho 200's. I feel the rear floats a bit. I think the WJ bar is 32 mm. It is roughly 5 inches wider. I did get an OME sway bar for a WJ. They reduce the diameter to 1-1/8". So, about 28.6mm. I measure my present swaybar at 1.093. From memory and looking at the bar I have, the WJ sway bar is longer. So, you have to move it forward an inch or so. I think use the front bolt hole for the rear, and then there might be hole for the front already there. I think I'd go with the HD XJ swaybar. I do plan to get a Hellweg for my rear. I want to see what Bilstein rear shocks will do. I have a set that is the right length for 2" and have a small remote reservoir.

I thought there were two different water pump heights. So, tow different pully heights. As, I know it, the 'reverse' water pump is for the WJ's and 2000 Wranglers. From my WJ motor, that water pump has an extra bolt hole.

Mine was a 78 Gremlin. Maybe 4 people. Then again, I had to go up Raton pass. Back in the day of 55 mph, I had to hit the bottom at 75 mph. I had the pedal to the metal, and if something slowed me down, then it would be 25-35 mph the rest of the way up.

Manual or Auto trans? I am guessing auto. I have an XJ on 31's and 3.73 gears 2" lift and auto trans. It runs about like a stock XJ. I did do a 2.5" cat back, and a header and bored TB. If mountain grades are in your travels, then 4.10 gears are a bit better. I do have an XJ on 32.5's and 4.10's. It does OK. Still, a bit sluggish. It was good on 31's and 4.10 gears though.

Did you install an aftermarket bumper? They add weight up front. I have that issue with my 2000 XJ. Not sure what I'll do myself.