75sv1

Had a good time. The LS swaps looked excellent. Looked at 3 of them. Crowd down. About 1/2 of last year. Obviously I made it back. The cooling fan bearing spit out its cookies east side of Cincy. Someone from PA going to TX, gave me a 1/2 box wrench and a screwdriver. I took off the clutch and fan. Got me home. Remmi and Elliot got a few hotdogs.

Another list I have has : With stock Control Arm Mounts With RE Drop Brackets Rough Country Brackets Lift Height LCA UCA LCA UCA LCA UCA Stock 15.75" 15" N/A N/A 2" 16" 15" N/A N/A 3" 16" 15" N/A N/A 4" 16.33" 15" 15.75 15" N/A 4.5" 16.5" 15" 15.875" 15" 15.75" 15" 5" 16.6" 15.25" 15.25" N/A 6" 17" 15.5" 16" 15.5" 15.875" 15.125" 7" 17.36" 15.75" 16" 15.75" N/A 8" 17.75" 16" 16.33" 16" 16.25" 15.524" 9" 18.25" 16.25" 16.6" 16.25" N/A 10" 18.75" 17" 17" 17" N/A I'd take it as get it in the ball park.

Diesel 'rated' oils keep the soot in suspension, so it does not wear the bearings, etc. It will not harm a gas engine. I use the T4 and T6 Rotellas, mainly for the extra zinc. I'd run 4K to 5K on the T4, and 8K on the T6. The Delvac and Delo are good choices too. I did see some T4 at a NAPA last week. It was $24/gal. Ouch. It was gone a few days latter.

I use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic. I have used the T4 in 10W-30 and 15W-45. I use NAPA Gold or Platinum (with Synthetic oils). Any of the Diesel rated oils should work well. I run 87 octane in my Jeeps. I would have all the fluids changed. Tranmission oil, coolant, break fluid, differential oils. On transmission oil if an auto, use the Dex3Mercon. Or is ti Dex2Mercon? I would put some Sea Foam in the gas tank.

I did look at the cost of the fixed Rusty's control arms. More than the Core Adjustable. Also, the OP might think about welding on a washer at the trackbar location. On a 12mm, I am trying to use a 3/8 grade 8. I will have to open or enlarge the hole.

Another option is to contact the person in TN, that should be on the title. See if they can get a reissue title, then put you as the buyer.

So, since the 'previous' owner didn't title it, would the previous previous owner, still be the owner? I do have a 2001 XJ that had a similar problem. Changed some hands, and the title was already written on. Also, on a 2000 XJ, I own. On the 2000, I wrote big with a black marker. It passed. On the 2001, that didn't work. I had to fill out a form and send it to the previous, previous .. owner. He signed that. Then I title the vehicle. So, maybe check into that. Also, I hear VT has lax tittle laws. They might title out of State vehicles. Might be worth looking into.

Then I'd just go with CORE Stage 1's : Core 4x4 Adjustable Control Arms Tier 1 Front Set Fits Jeep TJ-LJ-ZJ-XJ-MJ | eBay CORE or Kevins Offroad trackbar. $240.

I had a serious bout of DW. Mine came down to a cracked frame, by the steering box. This was on a 4.5" lift and 32's. All new items. I did have Rusty's upper and lower control arms. I latter replaced them with JKS. The JKS did get damaged. I did run a Rusty's OTK trackbar. Which was OK for the level of the build. The bracket to the frame was being ripped off, due to the cracked frame. On my next build, a 2" with 31's, I went with Core Stage 1 upper and lower control arms. Cost and quality, and level off the build. I also ended up with Stinky Fabs OTK trackbar brackets and trackbar brace. On both builds, I have WJ Big Brakes and crossover steering. So, I'd agree with above, get a good trackbar. Get adjustable control arms. Or a lower one for a 3" lift and an upper adjustable. The upper is cheaper. Check into the WJ lower control arms. I think they are good for a 3"-3.5" lift. Then an upper adjustable control arm. Also, DW will damage components. So, you need to check and replace. I'd probably replace the upper and lower ball joints.

Auto, towing, do you have a trans cooler? Also, did you replace the radiator cap in the past 5 years? I'd take it that the CFS is new and came with a radiator cap. My 2000 XJ runs 205 to 210 regularly.

Yes, Champion Truck Plugs were breaking on me. I think this happened on two sets. And I'd say two plugs in both of those sets. They ran good when installed. I think the gaps on the second set, opened up a lot. I don't remember having issues with other Champion plugs though. The Truck Plugs are discontinued.

Its been a while since I messed with those hose for the RENIX. Two options. First, just put one of those hot rod breather filters in the front hole of the valve cover. Other is to route the front cover hose to the fitting on the air filter tube, between the filter and the TB.

Yeah, looks like just new bearings. Don't know how much you are replacing, like the camshaft etc. I might get some Rotella T1 30 weight oil. I might put in some GM EOS or Motor Honey. If you put in a new camshaft, then you'd need to coat the lobes. Also, then ignore next. I like to spin the engine before it fires up, to get oil pressure. I do that for an oil change. I pull the distributor wire.

They also have a specific lube for o rings at the hardware store. I'd think trans fluid would be OK or even Power steering fluid.

I use Vaseline on the o rings. You should have 12 to start. If you have ones that are brown, those go to the manifold. I'd install them on the rail first. Then push them all as a unit. I think I had some issues the injectors in the manifold, to get the tops aligned in the fuel rail.

I think you dodged a bullet. It just looks beat. Also, I wonder about how it was lifted. As mentioned above, don't just look that it is lifted. Look at the quality of the lift. Also, the quality of the build. I have a 2" lifted XJ. It does get some looks. Mainly for the bumpers. But, it does have WJ Big Brakes, cross over steering, OTK trackbar and frame stiffeners. The guy I use to help in my builds, ie welding. Said it was the 10K XJ to his son, last week. I said, I have a bit more than that in it. Still, work to be done. Lift it to 4.5 to 6", then... ??? So, don't look at it as what it is, look at it as is it what you want or get to what you want.

Another option might be the M.O.R.E. motor mounts. I think Ironman 4X4 makes something similar. Its a Clevite bushing in a housing. I did put those on my MJ for a WJ 4.0L swap to the stock motor brackets. BTW, I do have Brown Dogs. Excellent product(s). I have some other builds coming up. I have been looking at Stinky Fab and Ironman 4X4. Not sure what will make it on my MJ, though. The Browndogs will go onto my 2001 XJ. Stripping parts from my '98 XJ, where the Browndogs were for 3-4 years.

Condition: New Placement on Vehicle: Rear Other Part Number: FK80035, 265-1457, RK80035, 95069, 45G0248, 18280 Interchange Part Number: MK80035, 2700-95069, FO-L702, 18446, GK80035 Part Brand: NAPA Manufacturer Part #: 265-1457 Stock #: AA0069 Bin Location: M30 Interchange Part #: 599.FD8797 Brand: MOOG Type: Suspension, Springs and Related Components Manufacturer Part Number: K80035

I put the number search in EBay. Listed more than a few. Also, could check as to what Ford Truck PN's, it's for other manufactures.

Look at the level of the trans fluid then not started, ie running. It should be up in the 'Z' bend. Then start the engine. Shift through the gears. Then again check the fluid level. It should be down in the fill level mark. Also, look at both sides of the dip stick. Sometimes one side will have fluid way up the side. The other at the actual level. That would let you know if the pump is working.

First, depends on how the two turbos are used. On some applications, they are to keep the compression ratio the same, through out the rpm range. That is mainly for emissions. Also, fuel economy with power is also doable. Its good to see some company(ies) still investing in gas motors.

Filled up with $4.90 today. Some other stations were $5.19.

On an XJ build I am doing, I am going with a Ford 8.8 for the rear and 4.88 gears. Looking at a dana 44 for the front. Probably, a Rubi front axle. Just the housing. Really, depends on what size of tire you plan to run, though.

Agriguard is the product. I think you can find it at Tractor Supply.

Blow-By is as Gogmorgo explains. Yet, falsely, it is applied to your situation. As described earlier, it is an imbalance in the CCV system that is likely causing this issue. The rear CCV is not pulling the amount of air needed. So, the suction from the intake ie filter side, is drawing in more air. With that, it is sucking in the oil from the valve cover. You could use an aftermarket breather on the front of the valve cover. Or do the Cruise mod, Felpro silicon rubber VC gasket, upgrade the Valve Cover to a 91-95 HC VC or better yet, a 93-98 Grand Cherokee ZJ valve cover. Modify the rear line. Use 97-01 XJ rear line and fitting. I am taking it that yours is a RENIX. IF HO, then you could just do the rear line and fitting. Also, I think Fram has better filtering on air filters. This does come at a cost. The flow through the filter is less. So, affect MPG and power to an extent.