75sv1

I have RC control arms. I ran then for a few years. Only issue is that the upper use on 1/16 sheet metal. I like 3/16 to a 1/4. I did have Ruff Stuff control arms bracket put on them. I might think about welding on washers on each side.

I still go back to a posting on BITOG. It was analysis of oil test from Blackstone. They did three different engines or vehicles. Rotella T6 was studied in 2 of them. It was at the top, with Amsoil. The third, Chevy Corvette, it was not reported in. AMSOIL was at the top of the list.

Road tested this morning. Low temps outside, and some reported snow flakes. Heat worked.

I did install the Heater Treater Blend door, yesterday. I think Doorman makes a plastic replacement kit too. Everything went OK. The Heater Treater uses flats on the shaft to match the ones on the blend door motor. The replacement blend door motor(s) came with splined parts. The original Blend Door had this insert. So, a negative with the Heater Treater, is the blend door might not full move to seal the one side. The side towards the firewall. I have actuated it, with the cut out not in place. So, about 1/8 to a 1/4 gap. I haven't road tested it yet.

Depends on what 'older' means. Early 80's, or 2000+? Also, I think the older engines take thicker oil better. I did have an issue with my 2000 Ford Contour SVT and 20W-50 synthetic. The lifters didn't like it. I only ran it 3K. The 80's Pennzoil and Quaker State had a lot of paraffin in them. Also, they were good for say 2K or so. I did run Castrol Syntec in my '96 Contour from 20K to probably 120K. Engine was clean. I did change to Shaffer them Pennzoil Platinum. All were fine in that motor. It never used a drop of oil, even at 214K. I sold it about then.

I don't see an issue with that era, size and your location of 20W-50 conventional oil. In my '75 Bricklin with a 351W, I did that once. I might have been in Tulsa at the time. I lost 2 MPG though. Is the 40 PSI at idle or what RPM? I've heard of 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPM minimum. I might run at least 10W-40 say Spring and Fall, 10W-30 Winter, and then the 20W-50 during Summer. I'd also add Zinc or have 1,000 to1,2000 PPM of zinc. Since its a flat tappet motor.

I have one in my MB 240D. A diesel is a bit harder to start. I do or did plug it in and it help starting with 15W-40. I then switched to 10W-30 for the colder months. Then I switched to 5w-40 synthetic. I think synthetics do better in the cold. I'd also look at a battery heater pad. They also make heater pads for the oil pan sump.

So, you pay protection money.

The XJ in '99 actually went from a sheet metal screw to a threaded bolt for the ground wire for the battery negative.

Well, at least it has a Pinto shifter.

Yeah, those Pantera taillights.

I'm still looking for disk brakes for the Brick.

I have Ford 8.8 on two XJs. One with 3.73 gears, the other with 4.10s. Both use spacers/adapters. The one has longer bolts and about a 1" spacer. So, the spacer is 'captured'. The Adapter is to accommodate 5 and 5 rims. I also have the Yukon kit to upgrade the axle shafts. That will space out the axles 1". The Ford 8.8 will add 1/2 inch to a lift on an XJ. So, I take it as -1/2 on an MJ. The Ford 8.8 usually have a LS locker and disc brakes. Not always though. There is also the Dana 44 out of the Isuzu. 6 on 5.5 (??) though. So, probably not what the OP should go for.

I bought two with the tittle but they were sold to someone else. So, the one, I over wrote the names etc. and they accepted it. The other, I over wrote the names ect. and they didn't. The DMV gave me papers to send to the "owner', or who held the tittle. He filled them out, sent them back. So, now I have the tittle. They can also request a duplicate tittle.

I'd put weight in the bed to compress the springs a bit. That should put the shackle angle closer to what it should be. Also, hopefully prevent then from flipping to the front.

I recently put on OME 3-1/2 springs on my 2001 XJ. They are on there temporarily as it is getting a 4-link. The stock shackle was way to short. I did have a 'spare' IRO' boomerang shackle. I had to go to the +1 holes, so the springs would fit. So, about MJ length. Don't know if a longer shackle length, would put it on the right side or not. Yes, the height would be really high. Then stack a bunch of weight, and ride around for a while. Not sure, but a possible solution.

I didn't notice any improvement with the Ford 4 holes on two XJs. Both 98's. The 12 hole initially show some power improvement, for about a week. I don't k now on the newer Jeep injectors. The 4 holes seemed to run a bit smoother. I think the RENIX likes the VOLVO injectors.

Yeah, I know. $$$. $$$ for the frame stiffeners. $$$ for the Front LA. $$$ for the rear LA. $$ for the springs. Hopefully, I have $$$ for the LS swap, etc.

So, the Furball has you well trained. We don't need no stinking shoes.

I was suggested to put weight on the back of my XJ, as I was really high with new springs. Still, my shackles had the right angle to them. If you can fix that, then possibly a lot of weight in the back would help. Like I posted before, mine took about 2-3 years. They haven't gone down any more in the last 2-3 years.

I agree, the present setup is bad. Not good to run it. The Ford 8.8 will give or take 1/2 of lift. On my XJ, it add 1/2", so it does good with the 2" front coils, and 1-1/2 Crown Up countries. Eitherway, Rusty's need to make a correction on this. My, 4.5 lift did not look that bad.

My thought is the springs are not kranged, or loaded from the maker. So, the arch is to much. With time, it might level out. I had that issue with a set of RC rear springs. It took about 3 years for them to settle. They were 4.5" lift springs. They were well above 6 inches of lift. Yours look way above that. Did you send a picture to Rusty's?

Yes, I ordered both kits. I ordered the front first. Then this year I ordered the rear. Presently, I am stripping the XJ body down. I have a few vehicles to get running to move them. Then hopefully off to get that, frame stiffeners etc. I think Ironman had a 'kit' for the MJ. I also looked at Iron Rock, Stinky Fab, Cav Fab and Dirt Bound.

I do have the front and rear 4-links from Ironman. It is going to be installed in an XJ though. Beefy. I do have other Ironman products. Some actually installed. Good stuff. I purchased the Ironman 4 link kits as it has a bottom plate. So, I think that would act as the skid plates for the TC and other stuff.

OK, changes things. With a manual trans, 3.55 gears should be good up to 31's. Maybe a bit sluggish with 31's on steep inclines. I have done some 'mods' on my '98 and 2000 XJs that help. Bore TB, Header, 2.5 cat back. Not miracles but helps on some hills in WV. As for 4-holes or even 12 holes. I have run the Ford 4-holes and the 12 hole injectors. The Fords 0n two '98s. No power or MPG increase that is noticeable. Engine seemed to run smoother. I have installed 12 holes in one of the '98s and my 2000. Initially on the '98 I really notice and increase in power. But with in a week it was back to stock. On the 2000, I was doing coolant flushes etc. So, I didn't really drive it for over a month with the 12 holes installed. I do wonder if the EMC adjusted to stock levels. Also, if a fuel pressure increase would help.