75sv1

I don't see an issue with that era, size and your location of 20W-50 conventional oil. In my '75 Bricklin with a 351W, I did that once. I might have been in Tulsa at the time. I lost 2 MPG though. Is the 40 PSI at idle or what RPM? I've heard of 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPM minimum. I might run at least 10W-40 say Spring and Fall, 10W-30 Winter, and then the 20W-50 during Summer. I'd also add Zinc or have 1,000 to1,2000 PPM of zinc. Since its a flat tappet motor.

I have one in my MB 240D. A diesel is a bit harder to start. I do or did plug it in and it help starting with 15W-40. I then switched to 10W-30 for the colder months. Then I switched to 5w-40 synthetic. I think synthetics do better in the cold. I'd also look at a battery heater pad. They also make heater pads for the oil pan sump.

So, you pay protection money.

The XJ in '99 actually went from a sheet metal screw to a threaded bolt for the ground wire for the battery negative.

Well, at least it has a Pinto shifter.

Yeah, those Pantera taillights.

I'm still looking for disk brakes for the Brick.

I have Ford 8.8 on two XJs. One with 3.73 gears, the other with 4.10s. Both use spacers/adapters. The one has longer bolts and about a 1" spacer. So, the spacer is 'captured'. The Adapter is to accommodate 5 and 5 rims. I also have the Yukon kit to upgrade the axle shafts. That will space out the axles 1". The Ford 8.8 will add 1/2 inch to a lift on an XJ. So, I take it as -1/2 on an MJ. The Ford 8.8 usually have a LS locker and disc brakes. Not always though. There is also the Dana 44 out of the Isuzu. 6 on 5.5 (??) though. So, probably not what the OP should go for.

I bought two with the tittle but they were sold to someone else. So, the one, I over wrote the names etc. and they accepted it. The other, I over wrote the names ect. and they didn't. The DMV gave me papers to send to the "owner', or who held the tittle. He filled them out, sent them back. So, now I have the tittle. They can also request a duplicate tittle.

I'd put weight in the bed to compress the springs a bit. That should put the shackle angle closer to what it should be. Also, hopefully prevent then from flipping to the front.

I recently put on OME 3-1/2 springs on my 2001 XJ. They are on there temporarily as it is getting a 4-link. The stock shackle was way to short. I did have a 'spare' IRO' boomerang shackle. I had to go to the +1 holes, so the springs would fit. So, about MJ length. Don't know if a longer shackle length, would put it on the right side or not. Yes, the height would be really high. Then stack a bunch of weight, and ride around for a while. Not sure, but a possible solution.

I didn't notice any improvement with the Ford 4 holes on two XJs. Both 98's. The 12 hole initially show some power improvement, for about a week. I don't k now on the newer Jeep injectors. The 4 holes seemed to run a bit smoother. I think the RENIX likes the VOLVO injectors.

Yeah, I know. $$$. $$$ for the frame stiffeners. $$$ for the Front LA. $$$ for the rear LA. $$ for the springs. Hopefully, I have $$$ for the LS swap, etc.

So, the Furball has you well trained. We don't need no stinking shoes.

I was suggested to put weight on the back of my XJ, as I was really high with new springs. Still, my shackles had the right angle to them. If you can fix that, then possibly a lot of weight in the back would help. Like I posted before, mine took about 2-3 years. They haven't gone down any more in the last 2-3 years.

I agree, the present setup is bad. Not good to run it. The Ford 8.8 will give or take 1/2 of lift. On my XJ, it add 1/2", so it does good with the 2" front coils, and 1-1/2 Crown Up countries. Eitherway, Rusty's need to make a correction on this. My, 4.5 lift did not look that bad.

My thought is the springs are not kranged, or loaded from the maker. So, the arch is to much. With time, it might level out. I had that issue with a set of RC rear springs. It took about 3 years for them to settle. They were 4.5" lift springs. They were well above 6 inches of lift. Yours look way above that. Did you send a picture to Rusty's?

Yes, I ordered both kits. I ordered the front first. Then this year I ordered the rear. Presently, I am stripping the XJ body down. I have a few vehicles to get running to move them. Then hopefully off to get that, frame stiffeners etc. I think Ironman had a 'kit' for the MJ. I also looked at Iron Rock, Stinky Fab, Cav Fab and Dirt Bound.

I do have the front and rear 4-links from Ironman. It is going to be installed in an XJ though. Beefy. I do have other Ironman products. Some actually installed. Good stuff. I purchased the Ironman 4 link kits as it has a bottom plate. So, I think that would act as the skid plates for the TC and other stuff.

OK, changes things. With a manual trans, 3.55 gears should be good up to 31's. Maybe a bit sluggish with 31's on steep inclines. I have done some 'mods' on my '98 and 2000 XJs that help. Bore TB, Header, 2.5 cat back. Not miracles but helps on some hills in WV. As for 4-holes or even 12 holes. I have run the Ford 4-holes and the 12 hole injectors. The Fords 0n two '98s. No power or MPG increase that is noticeable. Engine seemed to run smoother. I have installed 12 holes in one of the '98s and my 2000. Initially on the '98 I really notice and increase in power. But with in a week it was back to stock. On the 2000, I was doing coolant flushes etc. So, I didn't really drive it for over a month with the 12 holes installed. I do wonder if the EMC adjusted to stock levels. Also, if a fuel pressure increase would help.

Gear ratio: Auto or manual and tire size info needed. 3.73's are OK with 31's and an auto trans. A bit sluggish on steep inclines through. I used a Dana 30 from a ZJ and a Ford 8.8. I have a 2000 XJ with 270K on it. I replaced the harmonic balance, water pump, thermostat, front seal. Needs rear crankshaft seal. Oil pressure on mine is good, 25 hot at idle and 50 psi at RMP.

The camshafts changed in '96 as far as lift and duration. Then again in '99, as to a thrust plate. Still, you can use the 'newer' blocks. Also, in '96, they added location dowel pins for the head. You can pull them or not. I think I am the only one to have issues with those dowels and an earlier head.

I'd also spray them down with Kroil or some other penetrating oil. Heat does good. Sort of expands and 'breaks' the rust hold. Still, many times, the rust is like it welds together. Sometimes I can drill them through, then heat. I've had very limited success with the screw extractors. I have broken some and then that's a real problem. Sometimes I'll grind or use a carbide burr to 'section' the bolt, and break it apart. They did that to my wisdom teeth. Yeah, that was fun.

I have one from NAPA. Though NAPA seems to be carrying Doorman stuff of late. I have used Performance Products harmonic balancer on my '98. I have one for my stroker that will go into the Comanche. They are about $80-$100 though.

I do wonder if the high temps are if the trans is locking and unlocking in OD. I did get that driving in WV grades. A lot of times, I had to downshift into 3rd or even lower. A bored TB, headers, 2.5 Catback did help in two XJs. Recently, I installed a 3 electric fans. I used the 'frame' from Dirt Bound. Also, SPAL 10" fans. I've only driven on flat ground. Seems to run a touch cooler. Still, haven't driven at lower speeds. I did with out any fans. A bit into 215F. So, not very conclusive. I did just change out the trans. From one with 275K to one I have rebuilt about 5 years back. Also, I see not real change. I also run a 195F thermostat. Its not MOPAR though. I did have two High Flow ones malfunctions. The engine didn't heat up in wintertime. Both were probably Mr. Gasket. I will be trying a Stewart in a stoker I have assembled. I will be setting up a two trans cooler setup. Just looking at installing them. I have two from ZJ's. Trying to use the U hoops brackets. I'll need to extent them. Also, to Andy's post, I'd wonder if the brakelight switch might need replaced. It does some control over the trans. Still, some of the passes in CO, are really steep.