75sv1

A bit out of my league. OK, more than a bit. I was looking at going with a 5.7 or 6.0L and an aluminum block. When I was picking up a 4.0L block I had machined, I asked about getting an LS motor done. The guy said the 6.0L was a gas hog. I am looking for street ability and some semblance of MPG. I'll probably be looking at 350 hp. I'll be around a 10:1 static compression ratio. I'm also going with the 799 heads. Fits more of a Truck head so better torque in the lower RPMs. If more of a street racer, then I'd go with a 231 head. What you are doing or looking at is way different. I can give you my view, but you need to find a source who is doing what your looking for. My research is that the 6.0L is a low compression engine. So, it might be what your looking for, as to turbo or supercharger. The 4L80E is way stronger than the 4L60E to 4L70E. I think you'd still need some upgrades. A lot of other stuff you'll need to look at. Electronics, like Holley, FAST or FiTech. Krustyballer carries some weight on this board and so does ghetdjc320. Another is Aircudda. Good luck.

Just getting to an LS swap, myself. Here's an Excellent swap thread : It looks even better in person. Need to figure out what you want to do with your rig. Then what motor. I am doing an XJ as a wheeler. I also wanted decent MPG. I went with a 5.3 LS block. I am building it basically ground up. More as a low torque or tow motor. Also, going with a 4L60E for the transmission. I can't say what is needed to stiffen the frame and suspension specifically for an LS swap. I am doing frame stiffeners, inside frame stiffeners. Boat sides. Also, will get front suspension work. WJ big brakes, Bostwerks Hidden winch mount and a RE track bar brace. I am also going with Ironman's Long Arms front and rear. Also, an inside cage. I did go with the NOVAK engine mounts. I am going to order their TC adapter kit today. I do have frame stiffeners on another XJ. It is much stiffer than stock. Still, you need to better define what your design intent is. What V-8 you are looking at. What power out of it you expect. How much $$$ you are willing to throw at it.

I had the Standard one installed. I did not notice much difference. I also, had the HD one installed during a rebuild. It seems OK. I do get varying performance. Sometimes its a hard shift, other smooth. I am planning to replace the Torque converter to an Oregon Performance one. I am waiting till I get my mini Stroker done. Need to CC the combustion chambers to 58-60cc.

There were other versions of the AW4. Toyota used them a lot. I remember doing my valve body with a TransGo kit. There were 3-4 versions of the AW4. I am not certain of the Jeeps AW4 changing.

I made it, but Jeepless. Wheel came off at Bentleyville, PA. Crunched the passenger rear quarter panel. Had it repaired and picked it up on Tuesday. Back in IN.

I think the curved bladed ones pull 1150 cfm. The straight ones about 950 cfm. There are adapters harnesses. I think they are for early to late styles. Still easy to fab one.

Anyone going to the 2023?

I think they gained the horses after they were forced off the plains. I think the Apache were 'migrant' farmers. That they travelled plot to plot to harvest food. That gave the Comanche an advantage, in that they knew where the Apache would be. Info of this can be cloudy though.

Some of it is the newest XJ is over 20 years old. Rubber does deteriorate. When I first bought my 81 MB 240D, I had to replace all the belts and hoses. The hoses looked like the pictures in a Chilton manual. Also, I've had radiator caps go bad.

I've added that to my list of parts to change a few years back. On my '98 XJ, I didn't catch it in time. Took out the flange on the crankshaft.

I replaced some White Box shocks on he rear of my XJ with Rancho RS900s. The RS900s did feel flat. I did not pump them up though. They seem to work well though. I have them at mid adjustment.

I might try the KYB stock ones. Get the ones in Silver Color. They are made in Japan. I had some on a stock '98 XJ. A bit stiffer than stock. I liked them.

I think you have this backwards. The Comanche were the dominant Plains Tribe or Nation. They defeated the Apache and pushed them off the plains. If you look at the land mass the Comanche controlled, they were an Empire. Apache means "Them' or 'Others' . Sort of like Auslanders in German or foreigners.

Did you change the rubber brake lines? They sometime delaminate internally. Acts as a one way valve. My neighbor just went through this with a KIA SUV he was working on.

Never meaning no harm : just a little more than the law will allow.

Saw a Lifted Blue one last night. Hadn't seen one around here in a year or two.

Can't say anything on the mowers. I do have a Dewalt electric trimmer. I paid about $50 more than some other brands. I have other Dewalt stuff. So, I have other batteries. The trimmer works well. A lot less hassle than the gas ones I have. I'm not happy at the moment on the lower end Dewalt Impact nor the Milwaukee Impact. I did use an older Milwaukee Impact that was great.

Chevrolet : something like :: Corporate Heads EnVision rough old latent engine technology.

The German version for FIAT is Fallen in alle teile. Falling all apart.

Possibly, probably it's the Thermostat. I've had two or three that stuck open or came apart. During the winter, it would get above 125 F. That's on two different XJs.

That should be Schoeffler. Mine were F.(l).A.G. take out the 'L'. Big name in Euro bearings.

I did a quick check on Rock Auto. Sine your axle is a 91+ the rotors would be 91-99 or 2000-01 or + for TJ rotors. The hubs would be 91-99 and 2000 +. The rotors would match the hubs. If wanting to do WJ big brakes latter, then get 2000-01 XJ rotors and hubs. Ditto on SKF and Timkens. I did have an SKF go bad recently. The tire was puckering. The Schreodinger on the other side was OK. I did replace it recently. Sort of shot gun replacing parts for a popping sounds. Turned out to be the Transfer case.

Thanks for the link to the WJ Swaybar swap. I would add to the WJ Big Brake swap, that you need the WJ lower ball joint. Also, the WJ hub bearing is real close to the 2000 XJ. Just 5 on 5. He did use Tnt or is it Artec OTK swaybar mounts. I have them on one of my builds. I use Ironman's on another. The one aspect is the JKS adjustable links. It answers a question I had.

I also used Polyurethane bushings. I think they help.

Front or rear? I have driven without sway bars attached on some WV roads. I didn't even notice that the front was not attached on one side. I still recommend that you have at least the front sway bar functional. I'd also say that they be balanced front to rear. I did but some adjustable RS9000 shocks on the rear. Still, a stock front and rear sway bar on the XJ. Seems more balanced, than before.