Rhys Chalmers

@TurboedMJ @jdog Thank you

Just wondering if this is a LSD. Axle is a dana 44 with 3.07 gearing. Both wheels spin the same direction when turned! Thanks 20230531_233144.mp4

I ordered new front brakes after they seized up on me from rock auto for a 1987 year comanche. The calipers were right but the rotors don't fit the hub. This particular truck has had 4wd swapped into it, I'm assuming from a cherokee but I'm not sure. I believe it's a dana 30 front axle. Could this be why the rotors don't fit? Looking at the master cylinder...it's not good. Definitely gonna need a new one. Since I have to replace the hub that has a broken stud, and replace master cylinder/entire front brake system, I'm thinking I might as well upgrade. My question is if I go for the WJ front brake upgrade do I need to get a different master cylinder? How do I identify the hub I currently have so if i decide not to upgrade i can at least replace it with the correct part?

This is perfect thank you

I'll DM you

Hey y'all. Just put some manual truck mirrors on my doors since the side mirrors don't stay in place, and there were already holes in the doors from the PO. Plus I like the look. Anyone know if there's a good way to cover this little triangle section where the old side mirror used to be? Like maybe theres a peice from a cherokee that had manual mirrors? Or would it be easier to just fabricate something?

Yea that should work great! It ends in 429 which I believe it means it's for a manual. If it was auto it wouldn't matter since I control the shifting anyways.

I have a 1987 4.0 manual. Looking for an ecu from a later model 89, or 90

ITS ALIVE! After priming the pump a million times it's back! I've released it from the swamp it was in and gave it a test drive. God what a good feeling! I can't thank yall enough for the continued help. Still lots to do but this site rocks!

Update! Not fully successful but some progress. Here's what I've got. I installed a new ground wire from the bat negative to a radiator mount bolt on the front. I installed a new cable going from the driver side firewall to an intake manifold bolt instead of the cylinder head bolt (do all three need to be connected?). I then did the fuel pump ground upgrade while I was under the truck. @cruiser54When i installed the fuel pump there were zero connectors going from the harness to the pump. It was all crimp connected, so when I installed the new one I used solder and seal connectors that use a heat gun. Not as good as soldering, but still better than crimp connectors. Plus soldering next a fuel tank is not ideal. So...with everything connected the fuel pump primes! YAAAAY! The truck turns over but now won't start...BOOOOO! But still, progress What confuses me is the truck ran briefly last night when I used a direct ground from the battery to the pump. I threw fresh gas in today and now it primes, cranks, but won't start! I'm running out of ideas but am refusing to give up

That connector is gone so I had to cut and strip wires to do this test. Same result as before. 12 volts for 2 to 3 seconds then nothing. About 10 volts during crank so there is power! When I ground the fuel pump directly to the negative terminal on the battery, and the power is coming through the harness, the pump primes finally! That leads me to believe it's still not getting ground. I hooked up both the harness and fuel pump negative cables to an eyelet terminal and put it on the fuel filter bolt thinking that would finally ground it...but still no luck. It's not getting a good ground. I'm still wondering if the engine is simply not grounded to the chasis? Like I said in the first post, the braided cable that goes from the cylinder head to the chasis is missing entirely. My cables from jeepcables.com came in today so I have a replacement to put on tomorrow. I am giving up until morning as I am defeated and it's now pouring outside! Is there something else I'm missing? I'm not sure but I'm so darn close!

I went in with a probe to get a proper voltage reading and here are the results. There is 12 volt power for 2 to 3 seconds then it drops to zero on CRANK ONLY There is about 9 to 10 volts DURING CRANK. It turns out there is indeed power during crank. The cheap test light I used at first just wouldn't light up. So I have power up to this point. What's next?

I will check when I get home from work tonight

So... I've tested for voltage on both connectors since I was not sure which end I should test. The female side of the connector (I think it's the harness side) on c157F has power with ignition on but DOES NOT have power while cranking. Male side (the one shown in your picture) has no power with ignition or cranking but that's the pump side of the harness, right?

@Big_Mark I've actually encountered this problem already. It was indeed a PITA but i took out the pump and the connection had slipped off like you described. When i put it all back together i tested the pump with a probe while in the tank to make sure it was still connected. I'm going to check the c157 connection now like this other person said and get back to ya. Ya'll are so helpful ❤️