75sv1

I've removed the restriction on a few HO TBs. I also clean up the inlets cast taper. I put a taper on the outlet side too. So a 60mm bore. I can't say how much HP a bore TB gets. I have noticed that I do much better on the hills on WV. Also, running a ceramic coated header and the Horseshoe (2000+) intake. I gave a few to a guy who does work on my Jeeps. He seems to like them. I can't find my RENIX TB to bore out. I remember a guy in Florida, Bell that would bore them to 60mm. Said 1 in 4 or 5 he had to scrap. Porosity in the casting.

I remember Vista and I think I ordered one from Jeep Air. I could get to their heater core link. NEW Copper Brass HEATER CORE FOR 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 Jeep Cherokee | eBay

I remember Vista and I think I ordered one from Jeep Air. I could get to their heater core link.

I bought two brass cooper ones from two different vendors. Seems they were from the same source in Mexico. Quality looked OK.

I am planning to try and have one of my XJs done by a Linex dealer. I think its $500 or so.

Some might disagree. I think you should check the timing chain.

I cut a 98 XJ headliner down. I never finished it. It did look like it would fit. I was trying to get the rear speakers to fit in the MJ. They would be right by my ears.

My Tempo had 200K on it. 96 Ford Contour was sold with 214K . Hear 230K a few years after. My 81 MB 240D 300K+. My 2000 XJ is at 280K. Poor maintenance by previous owners. No Tupy head is OK. It cracked a piston skirt about 2 month ago. I have a mini-stroker in it, I've been working on for 2 years. Hopefully, this week, I'll get it running. Engine is in, primed. Needs header, intake and some other stuff.

There are 'stops' in the Durango box that can be removed. I did rebuild one. I have not installed it yet. Probably going on the MJ. Thinking of an SJ box for my 01 XJ.

Had Chimay back in the 80's a few times. I was in Austin for Fall break. A college classmate and I were at Maggie May's. They had just expanded. I ordered a Chimay. I remember it being $12. Jack said that must be some beer. Then the wine bottle showed up. No, it was not a cheap beer like Carlington Black label.

I think the 80's ERA Mustang used Marshall Fog lights. Might look on E-Bay. I remember about $70 a pair. Other Marchall lights are in the Ferrari territory price range.

The WJ uses cross over steering. So, I think OTK trackbar. Its 5 inches wider. Possibly the ZJ. I think the Y steering link is beefier.

I looked at some a few years back. Since it was something I plan to sell, I pick up one at a swap meet. Yeah, good options are $$. I did have a Rusty's for a few years. OK. I remember looking at Kevin's Offroad. Possibly look at CORE. I do use CORE control arms. Those are good quality and at a good price. On my last two builds, I went with WJ knuckles with cross over steering. So, I had to do OTK trackbars. I did go with a Rusty's the first time. It was or is OK. No real issues. I did have the axle bracket come off twice. That was due to a cracked frame. I went with Stinky Fab's the next time. Very beefy. I did come across a post saying they used OTK trackbar with the stock steering setup. They seemed to like it.

I had to do a web search and take in what they were saying. Its been since the late 80's since I adjusted a set of Roller Rockers. Well, actually sine 2004 or so. But I haven't run that engine. As I remember I adjusted the Rocker arm down till the push rod had no up and down slop, or the pushrod had some tension on it so turning had a bit of pressure. Then 1/2 turn more. I think that is possible with the lifters pumped up. Mine would leak down , if the valves were lifted and had some time. Then I checked with a feeler gage and checked against what specs were for the stock lifters.

I picked one up a few years ago off of E-Bay. Haven't installed it yet. I forget what I paid. I was also looking at it as an air dam.

I'm wondering two things, Solid Lifter vs Hydraulic lifter as for adjustment? Also, hydraulic lifter pumped up with oil? When I did my 351W back in the late 80's, I used feeler gages to set the adjustment on dry hydraulic lifters. I remember 0.042. I do have to check this on some fixed or non-adjustable Harland Sharps. Just curious, Stroker? Newcomer? The thermostat housing I take as a Newcomer. ??? Intake 91-99 vs a 99-up? Newcomer seems to like the rectangular one.

I had to look at Boostwerks website. I didn't see their Hidden winch mount listed. I wanted to see if the pillow block was incorporated or not. It is in there Steering box brace. I do have Ironman's steering box brace. Which I like and will be going on the Comanche. I had it installed on my '98 XJ. I did not have the pillow block bearing installed, as my frame was bent. Also, another reason I wanted a hidden winch, was that 'people' would have less access to mess with the winch. I do not have the Boostwerks installed. So, take my 'review' with that in mind. I think I like to Bad Dad Fab's overall. Also, a company called Alpine makes one. Apline also makes a Track Bar brace. I have Ironman, RE, and Stinky Fab's trackbar brace. The Stinky's in installed. The Boostwerk's is probably way easier to install. You do have to cut the front panel on both of them. This give space for the winch. Both will give a bit more stiffness to the front. The BDF I think will give more stiffness. It does wrap around the side of the frame. This could or did in my case make installation a lot harder. I had to pound on the 'cradle'. I do have frame stiffeners. So, this was taken into account when ordered. I did grind chamfers and a bit on the stiffeners to help fit the cradle on. I have not installed my winch yet. Possibly because of it. Also, need to get a synthetic rope. The Boostwerks does tie in both sides across the bottom like a steering box brace. The BDF just on the one side. BDF's kit for the steering box brace was $35. Boostwerks does have some additional stuff for Hidden winches. An Adapter and extension to get to the winch in and out switch. Also, a relocation setup for the solenoid. I have a Logan's bumper that will go with the Boostwerks. So, a 'traditional ' bumper. The BDF has some bumper options. I did get the 'full' bumper for the BDF. He does make a tube center section with winged bumperetts. My full bumper was very easy to install. Easier than a stock one. I could see getting BDF's tube and a solid center section, with the wing sections. For wheeling, the tube would be more accessible. The solid center better for DD work.

Yes, I have 3 XJs and an MJ. On these two hidden winches, you have to cut the front panel between the frames. I do not want to do that to my MJ. I am thinking the factory hidden winch setup. I think someone might make a copy of it. I think its limited to a 6000 lb winch. Also, with a hidden winch, I was told to go with a synthetic rope. Kinking the synthetic rope won't damage it like a steel cable.

Both of mine will have hidden winches. I have the Bad Dad Fab hidden winch set up on my '00. I have the Boostwerk hidden winch kit, that will go on my '01. I see some going the route you are. Have one winch to go front or rear. I don't like the winch bumpers that hang out a bunch.

I like mine. Sort of a running joke on me, but yes installed. I like it. I did try and put in a larger battery. Didn't work for me. I did put in a dual post. I haven't redone the cables for it yet. I did get the driver's side set too. I haven't done that one yet. Need to figure out where the air filter will go.

I have the CORE Stage One on my '00 XJ, 31's and 2" lift. Ran them for two years. Good quality, good price. I did replace the lowers, as I thought the bushing had blown out. No, so. I had JKS ones on my '98 XJ. Good product, more expensive than the COREs. I did have to replace bushings. I went through severe DW issues. I did use the rebuilt lowers to replace the COREs. Again, it was not needed. I do have RC control arms. These are older ones, so they might have redesigned them. The Upper end to the axle is only 1/16 sheet metal. So, they wallowed out some. I did have Ruff Stuff ends welded on them. They are one my '98 XJ. I plan to sell it. There are other aftermarket control arms out there. Probably a bit better than the CORE stage 1's. How much better? ???. Also, your intended usage. I am going Long Arm on 2 of my XJs. Not sure which set of long arms will go on the MJ. The CORE has a bit thicker UCA end than the JKS. 1/4 vs 3/16. The JKS has a Johnnie joint. Yeah, replaceable. I sort of want to try the Metal Cloak Dura joints.

The Comanche Empire and the Destruction of Northern Mexico - Cross Cultural Solidarity Found this on an MB board. Good read.

I didn't use hiems on my 1-ton cross over steering. I used the 1-ton GM TREs. I could see that for Offroad, the heims would give better articulation though. I did purchase the IRO steering set up. It came with heims. Threads ar 3/4x10 or something like that. I found that ES150 TREs have the same threads. The taper is between stock and 1 ton.

I like my WJ Big brake cross over steering. I am on a stock box, not rebuilt. Don't know if it had been replaced before I got this XJ. I do have frame stiffeners, Bad Dad Fab hidden winch bumper with the gear box brace, and Stinky Fab's OTK tack bar and track bar brace. I did have WJ Big Brakes and the GM 1-ton cross over steering on another XJ. Also, a stock box.

I will say, watch out on many of the internet articles, especially on heads. Combustion CCs and diameter of the combustion chamber will be very different between what I am doing and what you are. Also, there was one article on heads, and saying this one head produced more power than the 243 head. Well, I looked into it, and that head had a 60cc combustion chamber. The 243 and 799 have a 64cc combustion chamber. In my engine build, it will net me a 10;1 static compression ratio. Also, I'd look at Cahall Performance Transmission for info on how they build a 4L80E. I'm running around the net finding info on what I need on the 4L60E. Also, for a 4WD. Hope this helps. Also, sine Pete's challenged me. I just have to beat a Libby's MPG which is 24 MPG Hiway.