75sv1

They seem to go cheap. Some really like them. A former neighbor wheeled his. He said the 4.7 isn't a bad motor, just have to keep on top of it and fix the minor issues. Another neighbor's fishing buddy was working on one last few weeks. Unfortunately, the engine was a bit bad. Finding a good used motor might be hard. Doesn't want to put any more money into it. So, probably junkyard bound. Still, yours looks in good shape.

I used a large say 2ft x 3ft pan under my Avalanche the last time. Had an issue with the NAPA Gold filter seal. Yeah, 4-5 quarts of oil on my driveway. NAPA filter with the red o-ring have a bad reputation.

I started doing this swap. The motor mounts are one of the motor mount plates on each side. One is in about .900, the other out the same. I put on a '95 head and a 99+ intake. Also, mine is a manual trans. I was or am going to rewire to. Might check Cruise54 tips. He did a few RENIX to HO swaps. Its mainly the TPS that needs rewired. I was looking at keeping the WJ serpentine belt setup, with electrical fans. The '95 head does not have the one idler pulley threads on it. I might have found some setup that would work. Yet, I built a stroker from a 2000 block. Thinking of a FAST engine controller steup.

Much of the Euro stuff is good to excellent. I use to sneer at stuff other than US machines. That's a mistake. We had Sajos at work and a Cincy Horizontals. Sajos held up to the Cincys.

Your mill looks a bit stouter than a Bridgeport. I have one of the earlier SuperMax. I removed the Anilam CNC controller and made it manual. I did put on an older Anilam Digital. Having ball lead screws is nice on a manual mill. I have a few other CNC mills. Defiants. Also, a few Dyna-myte CNC lathes. Someday I'll get them running. Need to get the Monarch 10EE running again. I think the VFD took a hit. I like that you have a horizontal mill. Some stuff just runs easier on them. Also, better for hogging off metal.

Also, depends on terrain. IE hills, mountains or flat land. I do OK with 32's and 4.10's with an Auto in Indiana. In WV, I have issues on many grades.

He does state a 5 spd manual. So, a 3.55 would be good with 31"s. The 3.27s would probably be good with 30's.

On the manual side, there are two rods that go from actuator (part above) to the inside handle (6 & 7). I had the loops break. If you take off the door skin, then you can move the rods, push pull to unlock the door and to open it. Also, does the outside handle work or not? If the door can be unlocked and the out door handle works mechanically, but the inside handle does not, then it could be that the child protection is 'on'. See the lever bottom left in picture in above post. Not so sure on the electronics. Does it operate from the driver's door or not. Mine open, but don't close or lock from the drivers door.

Could put Pete right below the side mirror. Then CRUISER on the upper middle of the door with a larger or large 54 underneathe that. Sort of giving it a racers vibe.

What? Its missing the hood ornament.

PM replied to. Text sent.

I'm still interested in the Banks header. I can drive over and pick it up.

I could drive down Friday. We could see if the Doug Thorley would fit. Go from there. I do have a Clifford header, that's on the motor in my MJ. Its a WJ short block with a '95 head on it. It would take me a day or so to take it off. What condition is the Banks header in?

Would you be interested in a trade. I have a Doug Thorley, NIB. Ceramic Coated. I do not know if it would work on a RENIX though. I think you are over by Cincinatti.

I'd say the YJ's is the same as the 91-95 HO. The twist ons are suppose to be better than the RENIX.

I have 'swapped' an HO head onto a WJ block. I'm probably the only person that had issues with the dowel pins having interference. Yes, the '96 motor and up. The '99+ camshaft has a thrust plate. It more accurately keeps the camshaft in position. It might help make a few HP more. I know that there is a double thrust washer ones for other motors. A guy I know makes them for Pontiacs. Claims +8 hp. There is a double roller made for the 99+ by SB. ??? I read an article that below 5K RPM the silent chain is stronger. Above $5K RPM then a roller is more stable.

I am went through this a few weeks back on my '10 Avalanche. I wanted a CD player. That limited my choices. I had about two choices in the Audio store near me. Price was a concern too. I paid around $650 for a JVC unit. I think a Kenwood was the other choice. Mine doesn't tilt. It might be able to 'angle' the screen. I also, needed to have the unit interface with the GM controls. Mine has 'navigation' built in. Crutchfield is a good source. Also, to check prices. Also, mine was a Double DIN. And as mentioned before, the know brands are best to go with. Also, I has some JL speakers that were to go to a Jeep XJ. Well, they are going into the Avy. So, I saw some speakers on sell for $69 a pair. Regularly, $160. I listened to them Fairly nice. They only had one set. So, the other guy recommended a Kenwood set. Buy one, get one 1/2 off. I listened to them. I could heard a difference. So, for $10 more, I went with Kenwood. Kenwood is probably mid pack. VG quality at a good price.

I do not know what the YJ valve cover looks like. There is a difference between the 91-95 HO valve cover and the 93-96 ZJ valve cover. The HO has screw in to twist in CCV parts. The ZJ has CCV grommets like the latter metal VCs. The ZJ does have the oil baffle towers like the HO and RENIX. I do use the FEL-PRO rubber gaskets. About $35-50. Worth it though.

Or.... There is the 91-95 HO from the XJ. A bit better than the RENIX. Has the baffle towers like the RENIX. Then there is the ZJ Aluminum Valve Cover. You might find than on an XJ once in a while. I have them on my '00 XJ and maybe my '98. They have the CCV grommets like the steel ones. Has the baffle towers like the RENIX and Aluminum HO. I did have a '95 HO on my '88 MJ. Suppose to control oil better than the RENIX. Also, did Cruiser's baffle tower mod. I think the steel one controls the oil the best. Then the ZJ's. I had to extend the CCV tube, when I had the Aluminum HO on my '88.

Someone has done a conversion. The purge tank looks still set up in the system.

One of those that I'd read his post on the many Forums he posted on. Even if I didn't have an interest in the subject. Always valuable info. Always treasured.

You forgot SN#. And Bank Account #s.

I did find in a thread the MOPAR springs are around 113 lbs at 1.640.

I dug out my books. A text book from College, two Radio Shack booklets and a project book from College. PM me your shipping address if you want them.

I did check around. I saw 800-4800 RPM for that cam. I like that spec. I could only find around 270 lbs or psi for the MOPAR springs. That might be open. I did find 85 psi @ 1.640 for the Melling springs VS1298. Probably the same for the Sealed Power VS1456. Possibly could be shimmed to 90 psi @1.640. I think you'd be OK with the 113 lbs. I am building an LS 5.3 for my 01 XJ. I went with LSexceleration springs at 95 lbs. My lift will be .530 or so. A Comp Cam. A bit different as its a roller cam. I need to check if the heads are done. I'll see if I can measure the valve springs and the valve spring seats on an '00 head out in the garage. Also, need to figure out your break ii or run in plan.