75sv1

Also, depends on terrain. IE hills, mountains or flat land. I do OK with 32's and 4.10's with an Auto in Indiana. In WV, I have issues on many grades.

He does state a 5 spd manual. So, a 3.55 would be good with 31"s. The 3.27s would probably be good with 30's.

On the manual side, there are two rods that go from actuator (part above) to the inside handle (6 & 7). I had the loops break. If you take off the door skin, then you can move the rods, push pull to unlock the door and to open it. Also, does the outside handle work or not? If the door can be unlocked and the out door handle works mechanically, but the inside handle does not, then it could be that the child protection is 'on'. See the lever bottom left in picture in above post. Not so sure on the electronics. Does it operate from the driver's door or not. Mine open, but don't close or lock from the drivers door.

Could put Pete right below the side mirror. Then CRUISER on the upper middle of the door with a larger or large 54 underneathe that. Sort of giving it a racers vibe.

What? Its missing the hood ornament.

PM replied to. Text sent.

I'm still interested in the Banks header. I can drive over and pick it up.

I could drive down Friday. We could see if the Doug Thorley would fit. Go from there. I do have a Clifford header, that's on the motor in my MJ. Its a WJ short block with a '95 head on it. It would take me a day or so to take it off. What condition is the Banks header in?

Would you be interested in a trade. I have a Doug Thorley, NIB. Ceramic Coated. I do not know if it would work on a RENIX though. I think you are over by Cincinatti.

I'd say the YJ's is the same as the 91-95 HO. The twist ons are suppose to be better than the RENIX.

I have 'swapped' an HO head onto a WJ block. I'm probably the only person that had issues with the dowel pins having interference. Yes, the '96 motor and up. The '99+ camshaft has a thrust plate. It more accurately keeps the camshaft in position. It might help make a few HP more. I know that there is a double thrust washer ones for other motors. A guy I know makes them for Pontiacs. Claims +8 hp. There is a double roller made for the 99+ by SB. ??? I read an article that below 5K RPM the silent chain is stronger. Above $5K RPM then a roller is more stable.

I am went through this a few weeks back on my '10 Avalanche. I wanted a CD player. That limited my choices. I had about two choices in the Audio store near me. Price was a concern too. I paid around $650 for a JVC unit. I think a Kenwood was the other choice. Mine doesn't tilt. It might be able to 'angle' the screen. I also, needed to have the unit interface with the GM controls. Mine has 'navigation' built in. Crutchfield is a good source. Also, to check prices. Also, mine was a Double DIN. And as mentioned before, the know brands are best to go with. Also, I has some JL speakers that were to go to a Jeep XJ. Well, they are going into the Avy. So, I saw some speakers on sell for $69 a pair. Regularly, $160. I listened to them Fairly nice. They only had one set. So, the other guy recommended a Kenwood set. Buy one, get one 1/2 off. I listened to them. I could heard a difference. So, for $10 more, I went with Kenwood. Kenwood is probably mid pack. VG quality at a good price.

I do not know what the YJ valve cover looks like. There is a difference between the 91-95 HO valve cover and the 93-96 ZJ valve cover. The HO has screw in to twist in CCV parts. The ZJ has CCV grommets like the latter metal VCs. The ZJ does have the oil baffle towers like the HO and RENIX. I do use the FEL-PRO rubber gaskets. About $35-50. Worth it though.

Or.... There is the 91-95 HO from the XJ. A bit better than the RENIX. Has the baffle towers like the RENIX. Then there is the ZJ Aluminum Valve Cover. You might find than on an XJ once in a while. I have them on my '00 XJ and maybe my '98. They have the CCV grommets like the steel ones. Has the baffle towers like the RENIX and Aluminum HO. I did have a '95 HO on my '88 MJ. Suppose to control oil better than the RENIX. Also, did Cruiser's baffle tower mod. I think the steel one controls the oil the best. Then the ZJ's. I had to extend the CCV tube, when I had the Aluminum HO on my '88.

Someone has done a conversion. The purge tank looks still set up in the system.

One of those that I'd read his post on the many Forums he posted on. Even if I didn't have an interest in the subject. Always valuable info. Always treasured.

You forgot SN#. And Bank Account #s.

I did find in a thread the MOPAR springs are around 113 lbs at 1.640.

I dug out my books. A text book from College, two Radio Shack booklets and a project book from College. PM me your shipping address if you want them.

I did check around. I saw 800-4800 RPM for that cam. I like that spec. I could only find around 270 lbs or psi for the MOPAR springs. That might be open. I did find 85 psi @ 1.640 for the Melling springs VS1298. Probably the same for the Sealed Power VS1456. Possibly could be shimmed to 90 psi @1.640. I think you'd be OK with the 113 lbs. I am building an LS 5.3 for my 01 XJ. I went with LSexceleration springs at 95 lbs. My lift will be .530 or so. A Comp Cam. A bit different as its a roller cam. I need to check if the heads are done. I'll see if I can measure the valve springs and the valve spring seats on an '00 head out in the garage. Also, need to figure out your break ii or run in plan.

OK, as I know it, and mainly from reading : Your lift at the valve is .462 and .478. The stock springs for an HO (91-95) are maxed out at .450 lift. The part number for the springs you have would help. As above, the Melling 'stock' springs are suppose to be around 90 lbs at 1.640. Another thing to think about is to try a lighter spring retainer on the intake valve. Usually, that is the valve that floats. Also, might depend on what RPMs you plan to run. I'd have to see the specs as to what the RPM range is on this cam. Also, are you manual or Auto trans? OK, I see auto trans. Wondering about what the vacuum will be? I remember .272 for my 351W for an auto. Also, the Melling and Sealed Power springs, are suppose to be a smaller diameter vs stock. That is good, as you'll have less chance of coil bind. Found this on the net: 'if you search around JeepStrokers.com or NAXJA, I think you'll see they recommend Mopar P5249464 valve springs, Mopar P4529230AB cam, Mopar P4452032 chromoly retainers, P4529218 keepers and Crane bridge shim kit CRN-99179-1. Check with Dino on JeepStrokers.com forum. He's a legit expert in this stuff. Or call Hesco.' I'll see about the specs on the MOPAR Springs.

OK, as I know it, and mainly from reading : Your lift at the valve is .462 and .478. The stock springs for an HO (91-95) are maxed out at .450 lift. The part number for the springs you have would help. As above, the Melling 'stock' springs are suppose to be around 90 lbs at 1.640. Another thing to think about is to try a lighter spring retainer on the intake valve. Usually, that is the valve that floats. Also, might depend on what RPMs you plan to run. I'd have to see the specs as to what the RPM range is on this cam. Also, are you manual or Auto trans? OK, I see auto trans. Wondering about what the vacuum will be? I remember .272 for my 351W for an auto. Also, the Melling and Sealed Power springs, are suppose to be a smaller diameter vs stock. That is good, as you'll have less chance of coil bind.

Could it be for a ZJ? I tired on in my MJ. The steering wheel was an inch or so, farther forward. feltt nice. The length in the engine bay was longer though.

I'll check my books for what I had in college. To some point, it is helpful to see things or relate them to water flow or pressure. Far from an expert though. Also, there is the reading of electrical prints. Real fun. I did 15 years in drafting. Not many electrical prints though. Whole different world. I was in Germany being trained on a machine in the late 80's. I was suppose to help translate for our Maintenace, Electrical guy. I'm far from fluent in German. Back then, about clueless in electronics. Technical German, you basically have to know what each technical word is or means. There a bunch of words tacked together. Anyways, our guy knew the electrical symbols and all was well. Also, as ghetdlc320 has suggested, a bread board, some resistors, capacitors, wire etc. and a good volt ohm meter. Try some plans, etc. Sort of what a basic electrical college course does. Might see if there are any Vo-Tech classes in your area.

What lift and what spring tension are you looking for? I think the 232 has probably .430 lift at 1.640. ?? So, stock springs might be able to handle that. I think used a set of Sealed Powers on a head I did. They went well with Chevy Small Block retainers. I'd look at Melling Springs for a '95 XJ. I think they are rated for 85-90 lbs at 1.640. Stock LS springs are rated at 90 lbs at 1.640. Russ Pottenger of Bishop Buel Racing has LS springs that are suppose to be drop in. Also, the stock springs are conical. Similar to LS Beehive springs. They sort of self dampen. So, it takes less spring tension to keep the valves from floating. The original stock springs are around 80 lbs at 1.640. I think the latter 2000-up are 75 lbs at 1.640. What valves did you use?