75sv1

LIFT......LCAs......UCAs Stock....15.75"....15.00" 2"........15.92"....14.88" 3"........16.09"....14.92" 4"........16.33"....15.03" 4.5".....16.47"....15.11" 5"........16.62"....15.21" 6"........16.97"....15.44" 7"........17.36"....15.74" 8"........17.81"....16.09" 9"........18.30"....16.50" 10"......18.82"....16.96" See if this helps. Should be able to measure with a tape measure from bolt center to bolt center.

In the second set of photos, even though upside down. The swaybar links look installed correctly. They should have a bend in them or be angled. I would try to remove the extended brackets and get the length of swaybar links for the height of your lift. Also, I'm trying to see the lower control arm.

Ironman and Stinky Fab makes the relocation brackets for XJs. I think they made them for MJs. IRO does say to use Boomerang shackles for their 3.5 lift springs, instead of relocation brackets. I do use them on my 2" lift. I doubt they would work here. Still worth a look. I did install a set of 3.5 OME rear Leafs. They are a bit short. I did use some IRO Boomerang shackles to compensate. It was at the +1 length though. I am having Ironman's Front and Rear 4-link installed. So, I wasn't looking for 'perfection', or even road use set up. Also, it took me about 3-4 years for a set of Rough Country 4.5 leaf springs to settle from a 6-7 lift down to the 4.5. It seems to be holding at 4.5 for the past 3 years or so.

The setup looks bad from the photos. I would agree with the above post. Looks like the setup tries to use extension blocks instead of extended links. Or extended link brackets. Sort of what is used in OTK setups. The other thing I might be seeing, is that one of the links if 180 turned around. So, instead of putting the swaybar end towards the frame, its towards the spring. A bit hard to tell from the photo.

I'd wonder about a shackle relocation bracket. Not sure of drilling the present brackets some amount farther forward.

I was warned by Dirk at DPG Offroad about an aftermarket clutch fan and a 2 or 3 row radiator. Yes, that 1/2 inch or so makes a difference. Yes, Deth Wobble and stock motor mounts did not help the situation. I am running electric fans now.

Harmonic balancers are about $50 to $70. Replacing main bearings, well a lot more. Then there's replacing the crankshaft. Also, look at the backside on the harmonic balancer. Was in one thread were the guy's front looked good. He latter said the rear elastomer was real bad. Yes, I've had one go bad. I added it parts to replace on 'new' used vehicles.

I have a bunch of Poison Ivy in WV growing on the Old Farm House. I do come into contact with it. I have not tried to kill it yet. As for treatment on the skin, I use Technu from the drug store. If you rub it on and let it sit for 5-15 minutes them wash off. It seems to minimize or even eliminate the rash. I do try and wash first, then apply and wash off.

The OPs oring has basically failed. It should be round like the one in WranglerMangler's post. Just don't know if the op realizes it or the ones in the FELPRO kit he has are failing to seal.

I couldn't find the KIA and Chevy truck tire accident out in CA, this morning. Dukes of Hazard would be jealous.

I was planning to do this. I do have an OME 'upgrade' swaybar for the WJ. It is actually, less diameter than the factory WJ swaybar. I started to install it, but the Bad Dad Fab hidden bumper needed holes drilled etc. Didn't want to tackle that. The BDF bumper 'cradle' is a bit of a process to take off. I do remember a swap write up for this. There should be an extra thread hole in front of the swaybar bracket. So, you move it forward to that hole. I was looking at the swap to gain some clearance between the stock XJ sawybar and the frame rails. I do have frame stiffeners on, and then the BDF stuff. Presently, I use the HD 28mm XJ swaybar. The link posted by ghetdjc looks to be a good price. I also have polyurathane bushing for the swaybar brackets and the links. On my 2000 XJ, I do run the stock rear swaybar. It seemed a bit 'loose' in the rear. I replaced the white box shock with RS9000 adjustable at the middle adjustment. I like it there. It seems neutral.

I think the wiring to the trans is a separate part of the wiring harness. You might try Car-Parts-Inc website. See if any list a 2000 XJ with a manual trans. Also, the 2000 had a Federal version and a Cali version. I'll be doing the same swap.

Wall Art, Wall Art! We ain't talking no 'Wall Art'. LS Swap, clear coat, 4L60E trans. Yah, man. We Jeepin, now.

The WJ steering link is 5 inches longer. Also, its ends have stress raisers on them. I went with Ruff Stuff's 1-tom GM cross over kit.

Another option is the ones that attach to the drip rails. I have a set of them. I have not used them yet. The stock ones on my '98 XJ have collapsed from about 5 sheets of drywall. The next time I did put foam underneath.

I towed some Saab Sonnets a few times. '98 XJ with auto. Even in the PA mountains. No real issues in OD. Also, 31's on 4:10 pulled a lot better than a stock setup in WV. That was not towing though.

That is unless you get run over by a Tank. Some years back on one of the Mecedes boards, people posted stories and pictures of MB's in wrecks. One of the stories was one that was run over by a tank in Europe. The Tank guys thought they had swished the MB guy. Then they heard someone saying to get them out.

MB used the drum in the rear disc for the W123 chassis. I have a 240D. Those look up that real well. My Ford Contor SVT has external. I remember it working OK. Also, the Ford 8.8 is about 3/4 shorter per side than a D35 or 8-1/4. I have used spacers. On my 4.5 on 5, I did and some spacers turned down to say 1" width. Then use longer studs. The use of the Yukon 8.8 axle upgrade should widen the Ford 8.8 1" per side.

OKK, I have run the 5 on 5 for 3 years or more. The trips are through WV. I ran Rusty's OTK trackbar. On my '00 XJ, I run Sticky Fabs. Both have Ruff Stuff's Cross over steering. You do the WJ for the Big Brakes. Your glad you did it for the cross over steering. I do weld on the bearing spacer. And Yes, do use WJ lower ball joints. Also, use 1/4 spacers for the caliper brackets. I do have a set of WJ knuckles, that I made a sleeved 1/4 caliper bracket spacer. I also drilled and tapped for adjustable steering stops. I use Ironman OTK brackets for the swaybar links. There is one build on NAXJA that had extensions welded up from 'C' stiffeners. Looked real good.

I have done the WJ hub bearings too. I did have a Ford 8.8 on that setup too. I did use spacers for the rear. I did transfer those axles to another XJ I have a build going on. I do plan to 'upgrade' the Ford 8.8 to 5 on 5. I do have a set of Yukon Axles for the Ford 8.8. They come drilled with 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5. I did try or start to adapt the WJ rear brake shields. Its a plan. I also will go with a Dana 44 upfront at some point. Seems like a good match with the Ford 8.8. Also, looking to 'upgrade' again to a 13" rotor on the front and caliper to match. I think2 I saw someone already did this on NAXJA.

There was a version of the Eagle, that was the Gremilin body.

Didn't know the technical name.

I think the newer bumpers have a 'clip' molded into them. That is positioned into the bumper. Also, I think some bolts too. And some screws to attach to the fender.

My vote is for the battery cables. I don't think I've seen a set that bad. I'm thinking electrical fire. Next would be the radiator. Also, any pictures of the brake lines? Those go, it could be a an interesting ride. OK, I do see the brake lines. Look clean.

I've had to use the factory jack once or twice. Not fun. And if lifted, then more not fun. I also carry a cheap rolling jack. Makes life much easier. And safer. I did have to change a tire on my Volt coming back from Christmas vacation. Not fun with a scissor jack. At least I had a spare. the early Volts don't come with a spare.