75sv1

There was a version of the Eagle, that was the Gremilin body.

Didn't know the technical name.

I think the newer bumpers have a 'clip' molded into them. That is positioned into the bumper. Also, I think some bolts too. And some screws to attach to the fender.

My vote is for the battery cables. I don't think I've seen a set that bad. I'm thinking electrical fire. Next would be the radiator. Also, any pictures of the brake lines? Those go, it could be a an interesting ride. OK, I do see the brake lines. Look clean.

I've had to use the factory jack once or twice. Not fun. And if lifted, then more not fun. I also carry a cheap rolling jack. Makes life much easier. And safer. I did have to change a tire on my Volt coming back from Christmas vacation. Not fun with a scissor jack. At least I had a spare. the early Volts don't come with a spare.

If someone wants to post pictures, I can take a few. Looks about the same as a regular WJ swap though. Also, if people were interested in porting heads and bigger valves, I have one of my heads apart.

I could not find what venders I used. I thought Jeep Air. Didn't see a brass one on there site. Mine are for 97-01 XJs. TMS Model 0399233 PWO MCH 0380 REF H21C

I use WJ hub bearings on the front and spacers on the rear, with a Ford 8.8 rearend.

Here's the Hooligan : XJ Front Cross Member Stiffener – Hooligan Off Road

M&T makes inside frame stiffeners that might cover that. Also, they make a front plate. I think Hooligan also makes a front plate.

I installed a copper after market one. Actually order two from different venders. Both made in Mexico. Not cheap at $150 to $180.

I did install one on a '98 XJ. no real improvement in HP. From surfing the net, you might gain 5 HP. There are a lot of other factors. Header and exhaust, bored TB, ported head. I have done those on a stock 4.0L. Some improvement, but not a bunch. One of our past members, Hornbrod did gain 12 hp at the rear wheel with the 2000+ intake. That was a stroker and more than likely had exhaust improvement , bored TB and upgraded injectors etc. There was around 2014 on NAJXA, Jordche88 did a swap of the 2000+ intake and reported 27HP increase, DYNO ran. Some of it was that he replaced injectors. I saw his thread latter on MallKrawler. He did add an adjustable fuel pressure to the system. I think up to 55 PSI. Might also look at Newcomer engines. They seem to port the HO intake for power.

I have two. I could loan one out. I was going to install one. The CFS radiator does not have the bung or port in it to accept the temp probe. I did use another setup to install the 3 electric fan setup. I'll probably install one on the MJ.

The later XJs did use the 'KJ' 16" rims on them as an option. I do run a set with 31's on them. Also, they fit over WJ Big Brakes. I also run 17" rims on a 4.5 lifted XJ. The front I used WJ hub bearings. On the rear I am using spacers.

There are formulas that 'Rust' metal. Some of the Black Power guys 'brown' their parts. I think Casey-Brichwood makes a product for that.

Just replacing a stock motor is going to be $1,000 on the cheap side for labor. So, then there is all the wiring, mounts, exhaust etc. etc. There was a really nice Yellow MJ on this board around 2004. It had a Ford 5.0 in it.

Actually, in some sense it is what I am dealing with. There is a whole family of 'LS' motors. So, how the different parts interchange etc. and performance numbers, and specs. etc. I did see the specs for a later 5.3 with 10.5 CR. And anther spec for say a 6.0L with 11.0 CR. The later ones had AFM and variable cam timing. Also, the term "pump gas'. Is pump gas 87, 88, 89, 91 ,92, 93 octane ? And that is a big difference in price per gallon. Also, factor in E85. I will note that yes a stock 5.3 is putting out 270-320 HP and them more than that for torque. In an XJ or MJ frame, that's a lot. Its plenty for most street rods. And would do me fine. I am not looking for a 400-500 hp motor. Just, something say stock plus and a bit of an upgrade in components. Most of the aftermarket is geared to Hot rod street racers. Cams 1500-6500 RMP or 2500-7500 RPM and up. A few in the lower Truck RMPs.

I did do some searching. The stock LS1 5.3 had 9.5 to 10.0 CR. There were some of the motors that had Hypereutectic pistons. I believe the 99-up Jeep 4.0Ls have hypereutectic pistons with a coated skirt. As I know it, Hypereutectic pistons were developed in 1936 By Karl Smidt. They were used in the Daimler-Benz BD 605. It did have direct injection and was Supercharge. Used in the Me-109. Basically, a higher percentage of silicon say 13% is achieved.

And don't have a neighbor who calls the County Zoning Bord if you have a vehicle that doesn't run, etc. OK, the 4 Saab Sonnets were a bit much.

This is the block I have: 99-04 4.8/5.3L Cylinder Block 1101763 | eBay So, 2004 LS 5.3.

Did a search on Car-Parts.inc.com. Tallant Bros in Cummins Ga has two RENIX heads for $100 each. Welding Cast iron, you have to heat the part up. Then weld it. Then heat it up again, and it needs to cool slowly. Either a thermal barrier, such as lime, or an oven.

I did look at various web pages. Seems a lot of variations etc. Also, some of them are supercharges etc. Seems later model engines, aluminum heads, can run a higher CR. Also, Fuel injection. Still, some say higher stall speed and cam lap over. Both of those will probably ruin Fuel Milage. I might check with Comp Cams and see what they say on my intended cam. Also, longer rods are suppose to help.

I purchase a NOS Chevy LS 5.3 block off of E-Bay. It arrived yesterday. I am looking for ideas on components. I am thinking of a stock plus. Also, to upgrade the rods. Look for Hyper Eutectic pistons. This will be a built rig, XJ. I do want some sort of fuel mileage. I'd say my present plan: Scat 9000 crank if available (cast), Scat or Eagle I beam rods. I might go for H beam rods. 6.093, 6.100 or 6.125? Also, that affects the piston selection. I do see some Forged pistons from Hyper Eutectic alloy. ??? Rings molly of some brand. I did use Hastings on my two strokers. I'm looking to replace the stock cam bearings with Durabonds. King coated mains and rod bearings. I want a camshaft in the 800-5,800 RPM range. So, far its Compcam. There are some others that come close and are a bit cheaper. With aluminum heads, is about a 10.1-10.5 CR OK on say 88 octane?

I used B-Quiet in my Ford Contour SVT. At the time it was the closest to Dynamat. I'll probably go with Nico for the roof. I do have some Dynamat for the front doors, I bought at a thrift shop for $20. Also, looking at Lizard skin a spray on. ??? I might have used the B-Quiet in my '81 MB 240D. It already had some factory sound suppression. The 300D's had a sound barrier on the firewall in the engine compartment.

South Bend 10K???