75sv1

Heso does or used to make a spiral vane water pump. When I bought one, it was like the Flowcooler. The impellor was a one piece though. I think the original Flowcoolers, they riveted a plate on top of the impellor. They would sometimes come off from reports. I did read on another web board the they recently bought a Hesco and it had their spiral impellor. I think a GMP housing. So, worth the $$$, probably not. I think a possible or advertised 5 hp gain. I did talk to the guy I bought my stroker kit from. He just said a stock water pump. I'll probably use the Hesco (Flowcooler impellor) on it. If $$ are there, I am thinking a Davis radiator. I also want to change the transmission fitting to the front and the overflow bard to the drivers side. Also, there is the thermostat to talk about. I would avoid Mr. Gasket. I have has two of them fail. One came apart. The other, just locked up. These were the Hi-flow types. I have a Stewart planned for the Stroker. I did get some NOS Carrols and another brand off of E-Bay to try one some other motors. I do have a mini-stroker build going on for the MJ. I'd probably just go Super Stant for the Thermostat for the OP.

I added this to one of my XJs, the 2" lift : Dirty30 Budget Upgrade Kit! (ksuspensionfab.com) Still, I'd look at the trackbar first.

I get a stumble or a miss on my 2000 XJ. I'm still on the OEM coil, though. I did change to a Denso O2 sensor. I think I noticed it more. Many times stalling out. I did change to a New NTK/NGK O2 sensor. Not perfect, but so much better. I also changed to a new MOPAR CPK, actually CrPK.

I think Hornbrod and GoJeep had isses with Hi-Flow water pumps, Hesco and Flowcooler. They had to put a restriction in the upper hose. I think Go-Jeeps website is still up.

I know there are better at evaluating shocks. Still, those are my views and experiences. I consider them limited. I will say a 2" lift is real nice for a DD. My XJ with 2" handles very well. I am with OTK trackbar and crossover or OTK steering. A bit of $$, though. Still, things to try. Some of Xjs and MJs is to take info and see what makes the most sense of what you want. I get some 'people don't do it that way', especially on my 2" lift. Its what I want though. Also, at times its try something that doesn't cost a bunch of $$. Then add those $$ later. Yeah, lose some $$ along the way. My next build, a front and rear long arm, I might go cheap in the initial shocks. Then Kings or Fox latter.

I'll try and give a review of the shocks I've used and have not used. First, it does look like you have Ranchos. There are different levels of Ranchos. Most common is the RS200. A bit firmer than stock, but not much. I did have a set on my XJ. OK, still a bit soft for me. They don't get good ratings in the Jeep XJ/MJ crowd. There are the RS500 and RS700. Some really like them. I haven't tried them. I did replace some overstock white shocks I bought from IRO. I think they were basically, RS 200, with the Rancho RS900. These are adjustable shocks. About $125 each. In the mid setting, they firmed up the back. Sort of matches the KYB Monomax I have up front. OK, KYB. I have used the silver ones on an XJ. The G3's on a Neon, and the Monomax on one of my XJs. The silver ones are made in Japan. I had some Jeep rears from either a wrangler or WJ in the rear of that XJ. It handled good. A bit firmer than stock. Good DD handling. Not a fair comparison for the G3s. Still, on the Neon it handled well. I'd say about the same as the silvers, maybe a bit better. Internet reviews are a bit mixed. Mainly, durability issues. Monomax are stiff. A bit less than the venerable Bilstein 5100's. Bilstein 5100s, I have on another XJ with 4.5" lift. Very frim to stiff. Offroaders like them. I won't say bone jarring on my lift. Also, my lift is with older Rough Country rear springs and Pro Comp fronts. So, maybe a lower to mid quality lift. One that get good reviews are the Bilstein 4300s. I have not used them. Bilsteins are rated as very high quality shocks. I think some of the after market shocks are Bilsteins. Possibly Rubicon Express and Rough Country. In the realm of shocks I haven't tried but think would be a good choice are Old Man Emu and Doesch-Tech. Also, I did consider Fox for the rear of my XJ. It came down to cost. I got a set of RS900 for $90 each, new vs $180 each for a Fox. Then there is King shocks, I think $600 and up each. Also, some like the Monroes for a DD. I have no experience with them. A neighbor used them or one of the stock brands for a steering stabilizer on a ZJ with 35's. Seemed to work for him. As for steering stabilizers, I presently have a OME on the front of one of my XJs with 32's. I use the WJ stabilizer. I have used the Tenneco one from IRO. It seems to have survived a serious long term bout with Death Wobble. I think I'll put it back on that XJ, and put the OME on my 2". OME, Old Man Emu are another shock that gets good reviews. I think the older ones got VG reviews. I do have a set of rears of the newer ones. But not installed. Also, another option is to install Bar Pin eliminators. On the rear I installed the bracket king on my "2 XJ. This is rather than the pin type JKS type. I did this as I had to drill out the threads back there. So, it is easier to fix the bracket in place and take just one bolt off to replace shocks. They also make them for the front. If you do top and bottom on the from, you'd be at stock shock height (theoretically) and use basically, the rear type of shock. Also, as I've mentioned adjustable shocks, my intent is to use them to firm up the rear for towing. Might think about it, if you plan to haul loads.

I use NTK on my XJs. So, MOPAR or NTK, its also NGK for the spark plugs. I just replaced a new Denso on one of my XJs, with an NTK. It does seem to run a bit better.

I'd still get a steering box brace. I do have the Kevin's Offroad one on one of my XJs. There are plenty of $90 one that will do the job.

Yes, the YJ shocks are basically 2" higher than a stock XJs. At least that's the specs I came up with. I really wanted to try the KYB Monomax shocks. They do seem good. Still, a bit stiff. I did get some white box stocks from IRO for $15 for the rear. I recently changed them to Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks. I kept them at the middle adjustment. Made the total suspension a bit stiffer. The rear does not bobble as much as before. Everyone has what they want for a suspension as far as firmness etc. Shocks are a part of that. For MJ rear shocks someone else will have to steep in. Also, I'd include what your plans for your MJ is. Type of use and driving. Keep at 2" or go higher? Also, I wonder about your rear spring, and the rear shackle. I think you might have a higher lift spring back there. Then they used basically an XJ shackle to de lift 1". Measure between the two bolts of the rear shackle.

For the front suspension, its the same as an XJ. I run KYB Monomax for a YJ. Thats for a 2" lift. A bit stiff of a shock though. A bit less $$ and stiffness (not much) than Bilstein 5100s.

I've used some parts from : Death Wobble, Grand Cherokee, Roof Racks, Rocker Panel, Dodge Ram– KevinsOffroad.com There is a lot of products to help with steering. I do have a 2" lift on my XJ. I went a bit extreme though. OTK steering from Stinky Fab. A few things I'd do first: Replace the aluminum steer9ing box spacer with a metal one. Plenty of venders, Iron Rock, Iron Man Offroad, Stinky Fab , just about everybody and their brothers offers one. I'd look into the "Cure'. Its a Delrin 'washer' that prevents the Y steering from flopping. The Cure! for Jeep (CJ, YJ, TJ & XJ) (ruffstuffspecialties.com) I might think about a double shear trackbar. Rubicon Express possible. They do make a trackbar brace to go with their trackbar brackets. Stinky Fab and Ironman do too. Just nice to have that option.

I've used some parts from : Death Wobble, Grand Cherokee, Roof Racks, Rocker Panel, Dodge Ram– KevinsOffroad.com There is a lot of products to help with steering. I do have a 2" lift on my XJ. I went a bit extreme though. OTK steering from Stinky Fab. A few things I'd do first: Replace the aluminum steer9ing box spacer with a metal one. Plenty of venders, Iron Rock, Iron Man Offroad, Stinky Fab , just about everybody and their brothers offers one. I'd look into the "Cure'. Its a Delrin 'washer' that prevents the Y steering from flopping.

Also, the rear CCV on that looks like an HO. I put a '95 on mine. The twist on is suppose to be an upgrade over the RENIX. I did do a late XJ 97-01 Big CCV hose and fitting upgrade. I also like aluminum VCs. Especially, the krinkle painted ones. Sort of Euro sports car. Then sand off the top of the fins, and clear coat.

I do use NAPA water pumps. No real issues. I did install a MOPAR on one of my XJs. Best bet for reliability. As for variations, as I remember there are two different lengths or heights for water pumps. This matched to the pulley your original water pump has.

The #6 might be a platinum tipped plug. Standard NGK is what i am running. Some do say Champions in the earlier motors. I have run Champion Truck plugs. They did run good, at least initially. I don't know how many miles I ran on the one set. The electrodes gap grew a lot. It was giving issues. I didn't think it was the plugs, till I pulled them. Also, I had a lot of the insulators break while taking them out.

I'd probably have the valves done. Head cleaned etc. I'd check the lifters and camshaft for wear. I would not pull the camshaft. I might look at going to a .042 head gasket.

I went through this. Its a common problem. Do the Cruiser tip. Also, get one of the FelPro silicon-rubber gaskets. I had issues with the cork ones. I found that the valve cover seal can also cause this issue. I also installed a '95 valve cover at that time. I like the 93-98 valve cover off the ZJ's though.

Last time I looked, the synchronizers for Ba-10/5 were $300. I think that was 20 years back.

I use Rotella too. I used T4 before, and a NAPA Silver or Gold filter. Presently, I use T6 and a NAPA Gold. I do prefer to use the NAPA Platinum filter with synthetics. With T4, I'd run at least 4K OCI. With T6, at least 8K OCI. I change yearly, with synthetic oils. The Rotella has around 1200 ppm Zinc. So, good for the flat tappets. I have put synthetics in high mileage engines. My 2000 XJ, I bought it with 260,000. It does leak a bit at the rear main seal. Or Possibly, and hopefully, at the filter attachment. I have been using Rotella in the Jeeps since 2002. Rotella does make a 10W-40 T4. It is Diesel rated. I did use it in my XJs, year round and in my MB 240D for the colder months. I use T6 now.

I have done Sea Foam. 50 to 200 miles. I'd also look at Marvel's Mystery Oil. Youi can run the smaller bottle between OCIs. I have also done the Trans oil too. Up to 500 miles. I'd probably only do 200 miles though. I can't get a good read from your photos. Still, I'd replace the thermostat. 195F. If its like a grease, then your not heating up the oil enough and the water condensation is not being heated off. Also, synthetic oils will clean engines. Still, I'd worry about seal leaks. Also, I think Kroil has some engine cleaner. I've used it. I forget the results. I'd also see what condition your CCV system is in.

Article is wrong. I have fit earlier VC on latter heads. I have a VC from a ZJ on both a '98 and a 2000. Also, the TUPY head is basically the same as the earlier 0331. I think they added material between the 3 and 4 exhaust ports. Also, made in Brazil I think. So TUPY is the plant where it is cast. PNs get fun as to what constitutes a new PN or not, according to a manufacture.

I have messed with the 4 types of 4.0L heads. The RENIX has lower intake ports. I think the injector reliefs are more pronounced than latter heads. The 91-95 are suppose to be the best flowing. Not by much, though. They and I think the RENIX have an extra temp sensor in them. The 96-99, do not have the extra temp sensor in them. They do have the location pins. They do have two exhaust 'D' ports, 2 and 5. I think the 91-95 and the RENIX have them too. I am ports two of them. I have put '95 heads on a '03 WJ block, and an '00 Block. You have to eye the location. I wrapped some tape around some head bolts to located the '95 head on my 2000 block for a stroker. The 2000+ or if a WJ motor 99+ heads have smaller square exhaust ports. Also, the bosses for the rail coil. You can use any 4.0L head on any 4.0L block. Its the adaption of the Valve cover and the coil or coil pack. I have put the 93-98 ZJ valve cover on latter 4.0L motors, a '98 and a 2000. The 96+ just had two head bolts with location dowels for the VC gasket. I also plan to do the Viper coil on my 2000. I am having issues with the coil placement by the overflow bottle. The AC hose line is in the way. I am looking at locating it on the head and block. One person on NAXJA made a bracket to use the Coil Rail holes. I am planning to use two holes on the head. The '95 head has two holes drilled. They are the same width as the holes on the Viper coil. On the '99 head and the 2000 head, one of the holes is not drilled. The casting is the same in that area. Same with the 2000 head.

The grill is right side up. People on CC just hate that. Please de-fix it.

The WJs, I think deleted the adapter. I was going to try a remote filter and an oil cooler at some point.

No, issues. The main aspect if not doing the WJ setup, is you'd probably have to use the 2000-up rotors. I have not done that, so theory at this point. 'Which hub did you end up running to get a 5 on 5 pattern? I believe the WJ hub will not work since its for CV axles. Your Yukon kit will give you a 5 on 5.5 pattern by the way, not the 5 on 5 you desire.' I used the hub from a WJ. Its 5 on 5. It has the same height as a 2000-up XJ or TJ hub. It should bolt up to an XJ/ZJ D30 knuckle. As above you'd need to use a 2000+ XJ rotor. On a WJ Big Brake upgrade, and using the WJ knuckle, you have to weld on a 1/4 spacer. That will space the u-joint of the axle shaft in the proper axis. Also, I will be trying to 'upgrade' the WJ BB upgrade, latter this year. Cobra Marty used a 13 inch rotor from a Mustang, and I remember a Dodge Dakota Caliper. I am looking at one of the New Cherokee or other Jeep for a rotor that spaces correctly and is 13 inches. With a 17 inch rim, it should clear. I do run a WJ with 16" rims from a 2000 XJ presently. Also, could do the same with 5 on 4.5 with Liberty part. Again, theoretical, as I have not done this yet. If anyone wants to try, I'll look at parts.