75sv1

Gear ratio: Auto or manual and tire size info needed. 3.73's are OK with 31's and an auto trans. A bit sluggish on steep inclines through. I used a Dana 30 from a ZJ and a Ford 8.8. I have a 2000 XJ with 270K on it. I replaced the harmonic balance, water pump, thermostat, front seal. Needs rear crankshaft seal. Oil pressure on mine is good, 25 hot at idle and 50 psi at RMP.

The camshafts changed in '96 as far as lift and duration. Then again in '99, as to a thrust plate. Still, you can use the 'newer' blocks. Also, in '96, they added location dowel pins for the head. You can pull them or not. I think I am the only one to have issues with those dowels and an earlier head.

I'd also spray them down with Kroil or some other penetrating oil. Heat does good. Sort of expands and 'breaks' the rust hold. Still, many times, the rust is like it welds together. Sometimes I can drill them through, then heat. I've had very limited success with the screw extractors. I have broken some and then that's a real problem. Sometimes I'll grind or use a carbide burr to 'section' the bolt, and break it apart. They did that to my wisdom teeth. Yeah, that was fun.

I have one from NAPA. Though NAPA seems to be carrying Doorman stuff of late. I have used Performance Products harmonic balancer on my '98. I have one for my stroker that will go into the Comanche. They are about $80-$100 though.

I do wonder if the high temps are if the trans is locking and unlocking in OD. I did get that driving in WV grades. A lot of times, I had to downshift into 3rd or even lower. A bored TB, headers, 2.5 Catback did help in two XJs. Recently, I installed a 3 electric fans. I used the 'frame' from Dirt Bound. Also, SPAL 10" fans. I've only driven on flat ground. Seems to run a touch cooler. Still, haven't driven at lower speeds. I did with out any fans. A bit into 215F. So, not very conclusive. I did just change out the trans. From one with 275K to one I have rebuilt about 5 years back. Also, I see not real change. I also run a 195F thermostat. Its not MOPAR though. I did have two High Flow ones malfunctions. The engine didn't heat up in wintertime. Both were probably Mr. Gasket. I will be trying a Stewart in a stoker I have assembled. I will be setting up a two trans cooler setup. Just looking at installing them. I have two from ZJ's. Trying to use the U hoops brackets. I'll need to extent them. Also, to Andy's post, I'd wonder if the brakelight switch might need replaced. It does some control over the trans. Still, some of the passes in CO, are really steep.

Its the same size as the stock battery. I'll check though. NAPA Battery 36 Months Free Replacement BCI No. 34,BCI No. 78 BAT 843478 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com) I think this is the one I used.

Its the same size as the stock battery. I'll check though.

I just put in one of the dual post batteries, a NAPA Legend. I made my own cables. 1.0 for the mains. The + cable sort of bend on the top post battery. So, I figure to use a side post for it, then the top post to the PDC. The Dual post is a 800 CC.

Climbed back up to 3.89 to 3.99 today.

About, $3.59. I filled up for $3.75 last night though. My XJ has been down for almost a month. So, might have saved money with the Volt. Finally wired the electric fans last night.

Also, travel a bit, while you are out there. Its a different mind set as far as distances.

There used to be getting "Rick Rolled'. Now are Jeepers getting 'Ric Dezzed' ? IE Disco Duck.

On your D30, I did the K-Suspension Dirty Thirty 'upgrade'. It fills in the upper control arm bracket like you did. Then there is the mini brace. Also, the C reinforcement plates. I also added the Stinky Fab spring bracket reinforcement plates. I do have an extra mini-brace. If you want it, and I can find it, PM me your address. Also, I was trying to add in a thicker fan on my XJ 4.0L. It would fit in areas, but then I'd only have two fans. I did install the 3 SPAL fans with the aluminum fans shroud from Dirt Bound. I'll be using K-Suspension temp sensor setup and thermostat control. I do have Nick-n-Times. My CRS radiator dose not have a bung for his temp sensor. The NiT has much more control though. Hopefully, you'll show the NOVAK fans installed. Any info on camshafts? Stock or using an aftermarket? I'm looking at some aftermarkets. Most start at 1500 or 2000 rpm range. I do see a few at 800 to 5800.

Sorry, no help here. Limey's Jeep was the one in Carlisle. I think he won the Class. Thanks for the info. Also, I think Limey used Optima batteries, two 6 volts. My head is still spinning on what I'll need for the LS swap. One of the other LS swaps left out the A/C and used a full battery.

Some of this comes down to who's behind the counter. As I said above, one of mine they accepted and the other not. Just did a slightly better job of over writing the one ,I guess. Also, I own property in WV. It came with an old farm house and a mobile Home. Note 'Mobile'. So, I went to get it registered. Note, I'm a resident of IN. Not WV. Although some states do have dual residency in these matters. So, technically, since the Mobile Home is 'mobile', it is treated as a vehicle. ???? A look right, a look left, and the clerk registered it.

Corrosion Protection | Waxoyl USA (waxoyl-usa.com)

I am planning to use the Line X undercoating and their bed liner: Undercoating | LINE-X (linex.com) I did use some type of undercoating from JC Whitney in the late 80's on my Bricklin. I haven't driven it much since and not in the snow. It was X2000 or such. I also have Agri Guard to try. Also, there is a product called Waxol from Canada. Sort of like Fluid Film only like a wax. I think there are similar products. The old rubber or asphalt undercoating works, till it don't. Then it traps moister and rusts out.

I think the factory uses the RTV. I think it is reddish orange. I can't remember what I used on mine. Also, there are different RTV gasket maker. I used the stuff for oil, I think black on my stock diffs. I did use a Lubelock on a D30 front diff. It seem to work well. Possibly on a Ford 8.8 rear as well.

Even in a straight line, it is not fun. Yes, I know.

OK, poorly executed design. The heim is not in a double shear. So, additional torque on that thin bracket. As stated by another, attached to the thin sheet metal of the stock bracket. I just don't like. I think the concept could be OK. First, put the axle side in the center of the mount. So, a true double shear. Then weld washer doublers front and back. Then a double shear trackbar on the frame.

Category: U-Turn - OffRoadOnly This is another I've been looking at. I do have my questions, though. Another possibility is the Clayton (???) knuckle. The guy who does welding and some other stuff on my XJs, found one for cheap. True cross over steering. He liked mine. Put in on his Wrangler. I saw someone's, I think with a added bracket on one side looked good. I could not find the link again.

To me it's a pseudo OTK trackbar. I do not like it. It looks like it used the steering shock bracket and then the original stock trackbar bracket drilled. Also, a heim joint at that location. ??? I like a poly bushing for road use. I do run the Rusty's OTK trackbar and the Stinky Fabs OTK trackbar. Rusty's OK, Stinky's Great. I do have the Ironman's OTK. I do not have it installed. Probably on the MJ. I don't like the Ironman's Axle bracket for the OTK. Its more like an upgraded stock. I also don't like the steering link setup shown. Looks like an uber stock setup. I am not sure what I'd use there. Well, I do run the WJ Big Brakes, and then the Ruff Stuff 1-ton GM cross over steering. I am setting up a IRO OTK steering. Not thrilled though.

I have used sealed power. I think they are good. I think I used a set of rod bearings on the engine in my '98. I bought them from NAPA. I had to replace the crankshaft. The harmonic balancer went out. I should have caught it. Stupid me. I did use the main bearings from the replacement crankshaft. virtually no wear. I replaced the rod bearings, just to spruce things up. I did use Plasti-gage to check clearances.

I did a search and found Gopher Bearing's site. Sent an email, and Mike replied. I'll be ordering two of them. I have some other inquiries out. Also, checking some other brands, to see if they will work. The NSK 885586 is 1 inch longer on each side. I have two of them. I don't see how they will work. I will cut off the ends to 1.060 or so. Pago Cruiser, thanks for the info.

Can you provide contact info for the 665325? Mine blew out last night. I was coming back from the PA Jeep meet. East Side of Cincy. I took off the Fan and Clutch. It did OK to get me home. I do have 2 of the 885586. They are to long. I will cut them down. Also, F(l)AG WN 6456 is the same as the NSK 665325. I did do a Web Search for both of those. No luck. I did take one apart. The hard part was getting the flange off. The bearing itself nearly pushed out.