75sv1

I have a 2" lift XJ with the 4.0L and auto trans 31" tires. I have looked into a WJ sway bar for another reason. I have frame stiffeners and a Bad Dad Fab hidden winch bumper installed. So, my stock sway bar rubs on the hidden winch cradle or frame. I have KYB Monomax front shocks and some white box ones for the rear. The Monomax are almost as stiff as Bilstein 5100's. The rears are probably like Rancho 200's. I feel the rear floats a bit. I think the WJ bar is 32 mm. It is roughly 5 inches wider. I did get an OME sway bar for a WJ. They reduce the diameter to 1-1/8". So, about 28.6mm. I measure my present swaybar at 1.093. From memory and looking at the bar I have, the WJ sway bar is longer. So, you have to move it forward an inch or so. I think use the front bolt hole for the rear, and then there might be hole for the front already there. I think I'd go with the HD XJ swaybar. I do plan to get a Hellweg for my rear. I want to see what Bilstein rear shocks will do. I have a set that is the right length for 2" and have a small remote reservoir.

I thought there were two different water pump heights. So, tow different pully heights. As, I know it, the 'reverse' water pump is for the WJ's and 2000 Wranglers. From my WJ motor, that water pump has an extra bolt hole.

Mine was a 78 Gremlin. Maybe 4 people. Then again, I had to go up Raton pass. Back in the day of 55 mph, I had to hit the bottom at 75 mph. I had the pedal to the metal, and if something slowed me down, then it would be 25-35 mph the rest of the way up.

Manual or Auto trans? I am guessing auto. I have an XJ on 31's and 3.73 gears 2" lift and auto trans. It runs about like a stock XJ. I did do a 2.5" cat back, and a header and bored TB. If mountain grades are in your travels, then 4.10 gears are a bit better. I do have an XJ on 32.5's and 4.10's. It does OK. Still, a bit sluggish. It was good on 31's and 4.10 gears though.

Did you install an aftermarket bumper? They add weight up front. I have that issue with my 2000 XJ. Not sure what I'll do myself.

One of my nephews was given 'Mom's" mini van for college. Yeah, bummer. A Honda though. He was real popular as the designated driver. Haul a lot of buddys to bars and such. The next nephew got a Volvo sedan. Was real bummed that it wasn't a Seinna mini van.

Also, I don't think it is much money to have the head reconditioned.

I'd replace the harmonic balance , possibly the timing chain and front seal. Also, with 'Blow-by', I have found the valve cover seal plays a part in it. Also, I'd do the Cruiser 54 modifications to the oil towers in the valve cover. I use the Felpro silicone valve cover gasket.

As ghetdjc points out, I think that is for a WJ setup. Some refer to it as cross over steering or OTK steering. I have 1-ton GM steering from Ruff Stuff on my two XJs. I like it. It seems more stable and less bump steer. On my 2" lifted XJ, I am not running a steering stabilizer on it. There are other set up for a beefed up 'Y' link. I do have an Iron Rock one, but not installed. I'll try and pCategory: U-Turn - OffRoadOnlyost a cross over steering setup. Category: U-Turn - OffRoadOnly. I haven't used on, but I hear good things.

As ghetdjc points out, I think that is for a WJ setup. Some refer to it as cross over steering or OTK steering. I have 1-ton GM steering from Ruff Stuff on my two XJs. I like it. It seems more stable and less bump steer. On my 2" lifted XJ, I am not running a steering stabilizer on it. There are other set up for a beefed up 'Y' link. I do have an Iron Rock one, but not installed. I'll try and post a cross over steering setup.

I'd say Benjamin air rifle in .22 cal. Most people today don't know they exist. Those who have owned them tell almost mythical stories of their prowess. Made of steel, some of them brightly chromed and rising in price. Once in a while, you'll find one for a steal. Just ask a Crow about them, and they get irate.

If you don't need the EGR bung, then any 4.0L header should work. I think Pace Setter make one for the RENIX of at least they did. Clifford too. I have/had both. I did pick up a Pace Setter for a TJ a month ago. They changed the design, but its different between the TJ header and the XJ/MJ header. The TJ uses the ball socket, and the XJ still has a slip fit tubes. Its different than before. Tube to tube, instead of the 'box' slip fit connector.

I change the oil pump on my '98 XJ. I went from where the OP's oil pressure is at to roughly 25-28 psi at idle and 205F and 35-50 psi at 2000 rpm. I did have to replace the crankshaft and bearings as the harmonic balance went bad.

Oh, going to pull the "I've run out of gas, on a date, on a lonesome country road." Isn't that how some slasher movies start? Or just the Thriller Video?

Are you stuck on JCR or just looking for a MJ bumper? I was at the Carlise PA All Breeds jeep Show. One of the Venders from PA had MJ rear bumpers for sale.

I will go back to the OP post, he says basically 'Add a Leaf.' So, I have not used one. Usually, the info is they are a patch work. Also, it depends on what condition his original spring is. Also, what is the intent of the rig? I am guessing with a 3 inch lift or less, then street use and some mild trails, ie hunting and fishing roads. Although even a stock XJ with 4wd can handle a lot. One item I'd avoid with RC is the upper control arms. They have 1/16th sheet metal for the brackets to the axle. Mine wallered out. I bought some Core uppers. I liked them, so I bought their lowers. Many other good choices. I also have a set of JKS control arms. OP, might not need them with a 2-3 inch lift. Also, state the budget. Lifts can add up quick. Smoekyyanks list is a god start. Also, you could do a budget lift, with extended shackles and pucks up front to a 2" lift. I went with 2" springs from IRO for $109. Then some 'Up Country' springs in the rear. I had plans to keep that build on a budget. Didn't work out.

Also, I think the modern engine swaps might get better MPG. A bit more of justification. As long as it gets some of the older stuff running and not rotting out in a field.

Um, he did say MJ. ??? So, a lot of those kits won't work. What's out there for MJ rear springs? Hell's Creek? Rusty's? Who else? I'm on a 2" lift on an XJ with 31's. My tires are on the skinny side though. I do have RC rear springs on an XJ. They are older ones and do not have the anti friction pads. I hear the new ones do. Also, I think IRO uses RC rear springs except for their 3.5" lift. I hear good things about that lift and their long arm kit. I went with OME 3.5 spring for a planned lift. Its dual rate. Still, I don't think OME makes a rear spring for the MJ. I would take the advice to see about piecing together a lift. I think you'll end up with a better lift. On Rusty's stuff, watch the shipping. With shipping you might be at the same $$ for say IRO, Rubicon Express, OME or other higher quality parts. If you piece together a lift, look at the Metal Cloak 3.5 progressive's springs. I have some, but not installed. They get good reviews overall.

I would say $3.15 in Indiana. It was $3 to $3.10 in WV, and Western VA a few weeks back. A bit surprised that WV wasn't much higher than WV. The surprise was around Cincy. I thought I saw $2.80 or so.

I have had/have 3 98 XJs and one 2000, my present DD. I do have a 2001 chassis. The '99 might be the best year, or the '95. There seems to possibly be some transitions in the '99 year. I'd look to see if it has the rail coil vs the distributor. My 2000 has 265K on it. I bought it two yeas ago. I've only had it on the road since spring. So, a few months. I do not know if the head has been replaced. If and when the 0331 cracks is a mystery. The two I had been around had about 80K on them. They looked well maintained. Also, there is a Fed and a Cali (pre cats) version of the 2000 XJ. The 2001 had the precats. What I look for in an XJ is 'no rust'.

I'd also suspect the alternator. As above, put a volt meter between the negative cable and the batter. Start taking fuses out.

I know the Cruise Control or Air Bags are on the same circuit. I might also try a new temp sensor. I was having rough running. I think it was the plugs. The gap had grown a lot. I didn't think I ran them that much. I replaced the Champion Truck plugs with NTK. It ran good then. I replaced the temp sensor latter. It seemed to run just a bit better.

I have Core Tier 1s, JKS and Rough Country. I went with the COREs as the attachment to the axle is 1/4. JKS 3/16, still good. RC were 1/16 sheet metal or so. I haven't run the COREs much. A few road trips. They look well built. I might go with others if I was doing serious offroading, then again they look good.

A few things. First try and separate people with auto trans info from manual trans. Also, what is your plans, ie offroad, mixture, DD and some weekend trails? Also, even as a DD, I'd think about terrain or hills, vs mountains, vs flat land. I think there are some 4.30 gears for Dana 30's. You do have to look. Look here for a calculator: Gear Ratio Calculator (grimmjeeper.com) I do run two XJs. One is on 31's 3.73 and on 32.5's 4.10s , both autos. Both do OK on flatland. Both a bit sluggish in mountains of WV. the 32.5 was on 31's and it ran good in the Mountains. It did have issues before I bored the TB though. I do run about 2000 rpm at say 60 mph, and 2200-2300 at 70 mph. I plan to run 33's on my MJ with 4.10's and a manual trans.

OK, they look like the ones off my Bricklin. Then again, it has its 'unique' wheels.