75sv1

I have been using ceramic coated headers since around '95. That was on my Bricklin. I used some Ceramic coated headers on my '88 Comanche. I did wrap the Brick's headers previously. They rusted up a bit. Hood temps with both felt like 50% reduction. I presently have Thorley's on my '00. I went with a Ironman 4-link on my '01 to 'gain' a belly pan. Not sure how that will work out. Adding a lot of weight elsewhere too.

I looked on Rock Auto. '88 Long Adjuster 36.5" '92 Logn Adjuster 34.75"

From post, there are two grades of Moog products. Some say to use the Problem Solvers and not the regular ones. Also, measure the distance from side to side of the front of the tire and the rear of the tire. It looks like the tie rod and the link to the other side are all the way in.

I followed that thread. Even put in a few cents. He did sell that XJ. I tried to buy it. Money just didn't come in time. Anyways a lot of info. There is another thread that claims 27 mpg. That one went with aerodynamics. Mainly, plugging the slats in the grill and then holes or such in the bumper. I have an IRO bumper on my '00. When I did the cut and fold or comp cut, the lines matched better between the bumper and the rear quarters. At some point, I want to put a ZJ grill in front, and also some type of shield in front of the head lights. Sort of like a ZJ. Yeah, a bit weird. Also, see about a flap between the gas tank and the bumper.

On my '98 with 31's, the width was 10.5 inches. On my '00 its around 9.5 inches, also 10 ply. I do run those with around 36 psi. Also, both have Ford 8.8s. I give my MPG as Highway only. I'd say 14-15 mpg on country roads and some city driving. I haven't done much driving with Cruise Control with the XJs. On my Ford Contours, I'd get +2 with Cruise. Possibly better. I like to drive about 72 mph. Sort of a tweener. So, I have to get out of cruise control a lot. So, the OP's 14 mpg in the City is fairly good.

I think male vs female splines.

With my MJ, '88 2WD and Manual trans, I calculated 23 mpg highway. I am not sure of the gearing. I gave that axle to another MJ owner, and he thought it was way peppier than his original. Some say the RENIX gets a bit better MPG than the HOs. Also, a manual gets roughly 2 mpg better than an auto. On my XJs, two '98s, and my '00, all autos. The stock green one, with a smooth running 4.0L, 18 to 21 (once) mpg highway. The Azimuth (PJJ, Purple Jesus Jeep), lifted 4.5", about 17-18 mpg with 31's and 4.10's. With 32's about 16 to 17. The 2000, lifted 2" and 31's was getting me 16-17, with 3.73s. I can't explain the whys. The last trip in it, I changed to a synthetic in the front diff. Did a cut-n-fold or comp cut on the rear quarters, and added window air shields. I went to 18.5 to 19.5 and one tank to 20.5. Then the #6 piston lost its skirt. Towing with the Green one was 14 mpg. I towed some Saab Sonnets. so 2,000 lbs. Spooky looking back in the rear view and having a car on your tail.

Also, I run a Metric tire on the 2000. It is about 9 to 9.5 width. I haven't had it much in the snow yet. Mine are also 3 Peaks. So, semi snow tire.

First, I think you'd need a 3.55 gear ratio with 31's and a manual trans. I have 3.73's and 31's with an auto on my 2000 XJ. Does good on flat lands. OK in the mountains. I hear the main issues with a C-clip D35 is it doesn't retain the axle shaft. Yours is non - C Clip and has Discs brakes. The dics help retain the axle vs drum brakes.

Back to the Ford 8.8. Many come with a Limited Slip, 4.10 or 3.73 and disc brakes. There is a HD version. Ford guys rate them for 400 HP. Not sure if that is with upgraded shafts or not. For some reason, I plan to put a Ford 8.8 for the front axle. It will be a lot of fab work though. And some upgrade to carbon fiber clutch pack in the LS for wheeling. I haven't done that yet. Also, think about the level of wheeling you plan to do.

Huh, I have my Bricklin insured by them. My understanding is I could not use it as a DD, and had to be stored in a locked garage. That I could drive it to work etc. but not every day. Also, could drive a night. I'll have to check on that. Things might have changed.

I've used the Grimm Reapers gear calculator a few times. It is quite accurate. On 33's with a manual, I remember 4.10's. I did do a search on Car-Parts.com and there were two Dana 30s in CA with 4.10 gears. I think $350 and $450. I tried to check for rears for an MJ. They did make AMC 20's and Dana 44's for the MJ. Both a bit rare. The stock AMC 20 shafts are weak though. On the ZJ rear end, it should be 3.73. I think it has an aluminum housing. It is a weak axle. My neighbor swapped in a Ford 8.8 in his ZJ. I had that ratio on a 2000 XJ Auto and 31's. Its OK, but 4.10s would be better. A few other rear axles to think about are the Chrysler 8 1/4 and the Ford 8.8. Both would need brackets welded on. I have Ford 8.8's in two of my XJs. Both axles can be found with 4.10's . You would need to use spacers on the Ford 8.8 or the Yukon axle upgrade. I've done both.

Sure it doesn't have any British parts in it? Oh, I guess the old Jags worked well when it was raining.

Also, check if there is a parasitic draw on the battery. A voltmeter between the negative cable and the negative post.

I also have a 2000 XJ. Mine does have misfires. One thing to check is the Injectors. I'd put a Noid light in the #3 injector plug. Also, maybe switch injectors around. It could also be in the EMC. And check the Camshaft Position Sensor.

I did have issues with my '81 MB 240D starting in the colder months. I switched from Rotella T4 15W-45 to Rotella T4 10W-30. It helped a lot. I also use the block heater. I am not using Rotella T6

How old is the battery? Check to see if the sides are bulged. How many miles on the OD? Thus, how old is the starter? Also, what oil are you using? To heavy of an oil can cause sluggish starting.

Also, you have the 93-95 ZJ Valve cover. It will use the latter CCV grommets of the Steel VCs.

You might look into the CCV tube. It was 'upgraded' in the latter years. I am not sure if in '96 or latter. I know by '00. The fitting ID is bigger too.

You might try a restrictor in the tube going from the front tube to the silver air tube.

Not sure of the intent of use. It does look nice. Many of us do look for a manual. Still, the AW4 is a good auto trans. I would try and keep the Thule rack on, if MPG is not a problem. I have sometimes put lumber or other building material up top. The factory one has clasped on me. Still don't like putting stuff up there on some of the roads I drive though. Some have issues with the '96 year. Others, its the best XJ they've had.

NAPA carries Grote wiring supplies. I try and use the fine wire cables. They bend better. Also, some say since they have more surface area, they can carry a higher load. Also, marine or tinned wiring is an upgrade.

That is including a MEGA or Maxi fuse. That would replace the fuse link, the green wire to the alternator. I have made about 3-4 sets for my own use. I use one of the cheap Chinese hydraulic crimpers. It works OK for me. I use other types of ends.

I also use the Blue Felpro. I've done a '98 and a 2000 XJ. Also, the Cruiser mod. I use the 93-95 ZJ valve cover. Also, I use the later 97-01 XJ 'Big Tube' CCV tube and fitting. I did a '95 HO VC on my '88 MJ. Also, the 'Big Tube' too.

I have CIBIEs on my XJ with a Susquehanna MS harness. Had a cheap harness. One of the plugs came off at night. I like the CIBIEs. I had AtuoPals . Quite good for the price, plus a harness. I think I had Rampage. Lows were OK. The high beams sort of fizzle out. I've used various H4 German bulbs. Also, on my 240D. I think a Hella and a Carrillo.