75sv1

I've tried Ozium on car interiors. Takes out the smoker smell. You can find it at True Value or the Auto Parts Stores. I've used K2R to lift oil out of wood. It is made to remove stains from fabrics. Not sure if it would work as well as other stuff.

I'd also say how tall are you? I'm roughly 6 ft. I have an XJ at 4.5 and had 31"s and now 32.5"s on it. I have to scouch up to sit in it. I am working on one with 2" lift and probably 30.5". Also, another with 3.5" lift and the 32.5"s. Since you have a manual, 31'S should work if you get some 3.55 geared axles, stock XJs. You would need to have the rear perches from an MJ welded on. Edit: I'll add, I think 31"s look a bit small on a 4.5 lift. 32"-33" about right. Also, the larger the tires, the more $$. Might price tires first.

I use NAPA water pumps. Seem OK. Some will insist on MOPAR. I would recommend a MOPAR clutch fan though, especially if you intend to use a HD (2-row or 3-row) Radiator.

As stated before, the thermostat only controls the lower end. You do want to run at a certain temp to heat the oil. This removes water from the oil. With newer oils this might not be as much of a problem. I have seen congealed oil. It filled the oil pan. I would at least run a 195, a 197 or 205 for mileage. The 160 was used for drag racing in the early EFI days, late 80's. I tricked the computer and gave a bit better ETAs. There are other things to do for over heating. #1 trans cooler.

OK, but your not running that era fuel injectors. I might be off on this, though. And Yes, I am thinking of the newer OBD2 fuel pressure. I was looking into this from the 99+ intake upgrade. Jordan on MallCrawling did this upgrade and latter injectors. Also, upgrade d with HESCO adjustable regulator. Then someone mentioned an 93 or 95 Eagle Vision regulator. ??? Edit: Here's the Link: http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?6355-4-0L-99-intake-manifold-swap-with-REAL-DYNO-NUMBERS! See the last couple of pages.

I bought them off a guy that goes by Cobra Marty. I'd probably check Ebay. That pressure seems low to me. Is you Fuel Pressure Regulator on the Fuel Rail or on the Fuel Pump? The latter XJs had the Fuel Pressure Regulators on the Fuel pump. I think they go to a higher pressure. I forget which regulator will match to the older Fuel Rail. It will increase the pressure to I think 50 psi. A bit out of my real on this, though. Look here: https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p22/Remanufactured%3A_12_Port_Upgraded_Injectors.html#/

I see the new FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). Is this on the fuel pump or the fuel rail? What PSI does the fuel pump deliver? Also the leak down of it (might have that term wrong)? Did you change the fuel pump? I am using the 12 hole injectors. I think they might give a bit better performance over the 4-hole Fords. They would need adapters for the '98 wiring. They are plug-n-play for 2000-up.

The price of XJs and MJs have gone up. No or little rust, I'd say you did good. If you don't have to replace a bunch of parts, then you factor that into the price. If you drive it for 3-5 years with only maintenance, pat yourself on the back. And it looks good just sitting there.

Its just not a lines matching. The bolts positions are different between the years. Also, the headlight adjusters are in a different position. I think they just bind on the brackets. Yes, I'm trying to keep the old header with new fenders.

Nice wrap job though. Looks like you have the Armour coat headers. I'd doubt they would rust then. It would be interesting about the gains or less heat from just a ceramic coated header. And the Brown Dogs look good too.

For some reason I was looking at doing this. I think I was looking at a ZJ e-brake setup.

I have wrapped a header. This was on my '75 Bricklin. Trust me, that's like sticking your head in an oven. Yes, wrapping a header will cut the heat down, a lot. I experienced rust on those headers. Scaling type rust. I had those headers ceramic coated, Jet Coated. Reduced the heat as much. No, rust. Doug Thorley makes a good ceramic coated header.

Also, hard to beat Ironman 4X4 Fabrication's quality. Yes, usually have to wait a bit. Seems both of us will wait a bit longer. I ordered mine last week. Having issues getting out the spring bolts. I want a backup plan.

Which side? I have some pairs, and I think a single of one side. Also, others have stashes. Much more than I do.

I ordered the Ironman too. They are one of the few that have 'No Lift'. I also plan an IRO Boomerang shackle. So, as described above, I'll have stock no lift, 1/2", 1" and 1-1/2" lift options. I think the Ironman is bolt on and weld on. I think Stinky Fab might have a "No Lift' shackle.

I have a set of Crown Up Countrys. I haven't installed them. A negative for me was getting the bushings in. The small ones were easy. I bought Crown bushings. I could not get them in. I measured with a caliper, and there was .060-.080 press fit. I have to use an Enerpack to spread the eye. I do have a set of OME springs. Much easier to press in the bushings. I though Rancho had a full spring set for 1.5 lift. Also, ProComp and AAL.

I went through this a few years back. Mine was more involved as it wiped out the thrust bearing and scored the crank. Fortunately, my neighbor had a good used crank. I actually used the bearings from that motor. So, I'd check crank end play. Also, I recommend people to replace the harmonic balance as a service item.

http://oldcarandtruckpictures.com/Jeeps/ What about the Half Cab and the J10, J20 and I think a J400?

I'd go with play in the steering gear box, tie rod ends worn and or trackbar. If you ever driven with out the trackbar attached, it real fun. Also, I'd check that the steering gear box is properly attached to the frame. I'd replace the stock aluminum spacer with an aftermarket steel one. Also, could be hub bearings. But you'd probably hear some noise from them.

There was a yellow one either here or on another Jeep board. They guy painted a Ford yellow and had a 5.0 in it. It looked sharp and in excellent shape.

Formulations change. Years and years ago, OCIs were basically, 2K. Then Years ago, it went to 3K OCIs. Still, some oils, Pennzoil and Quaker State oils did good with 2K OCI, or so I've been told. Any oil will crap out if you run it to long. Some of the new synthetic formulation from Pennzoil and Quaker State get good reviews. I did run Pennzoil Platinum in a Ford Contour for about 50K. I ran from 30K to 150K on Castrol Syntec. When I sold it at 214K, it did not use any oil in 10K intervals.

One of the Post on BITOG, was a comparison of oils by Blackstone. Bases on oil samples on specific vehicles. The Rotella T6 was tops or near the top on two vehicles. It was not listed on the Corvette. Amsoil was also at the top. It is what I've been running, the past year or so. Locally, available and sometimes on sale. I've also been using it in my MB240D. I think HESCO recommends using it in the 4.0L.

Presently, I have 3 XJs and an MJ. I have been running the WJ Big Brake upgrade on a '98 XJ for at least 3 years. The first couple of years I was on R15 Canyon rims. I had to run spacers. About a year ago I switched to 17" JK rims. On the front I just change to a WJ hub bearing unit. No spacer was needed. On the rear I am using a spacer/adapter presently. I also have Chevy 1-ton cross over steering. I am working on a '00 XJ presently. I am installing a 2" lift. I had extra WJ knuckles, so this one does have WJ Big brake too. I am using the NAPA Adaptive pads and Reactive rotors. They look good installed. I am using 07-08 Dodge Nitro rotors. I used them on the '98 XJ too. Not the Adaptive One, though. I did have to add a washer spacer (1/16) to clear the anti rattle clips. 15" steels did not clear. I did test the R16 Icons. They did clear. I will agree, that looks are part of the equation. I did run 31's on a 4.5 lift. They did look a bit small. The 32.5s with JK rims look much better. The original posted rims would look awesome with the right setup. Also, the right 'bling'. On the MJ, I've stalled out for so long. Hopefully soon, I can do something with it. I have planned a Dana 44 from a FS GC with passenger side drop for it. I would guess a WJ Big brake would be doable with the D30 axle. Someone did a larger Big Brake. I think Cobra Marty. Dodge Dakota calipers and Mustang 350 rotors. It used the older AMC knuckles or spindles.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=nQ%2bxdfRW&id=45FBB936E0CD1E3D9BDF628FB8DBE0E564BD8B24&thid=OIP.nQ-xdfRWdUt4hArjuW99VwHaHa&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fwww.cherokeeforum.com%2fattachments%2ff12%2f397750d1502668340-grey-icon-wheels-jeepwheel.jpg&exph=300&expw=300&q=jeep+icon+rims&simid=608012084412615686&selectedIndex=8&qpvt=jeep+icon+rims&ajaxhist=0 Both the Extreme and the Mammoth look a lot like the ICON Jeep wheels to me. I am planning to put a set of the Icons on a 2" build I am doing. I need to clear WJ Big Brakes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-04-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-WJ-4-0L-PCV-CCV-VENT-VALVE-ELBOW-GROMMET-SET-MOPAR/321936348757?epid=252475705&hash=item4af4e6d655:g:zGgAAOSwVVdc0b~c Did a search on eBay. Hope this helps.