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Coyote

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About Coyote

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    Comanche Fan

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  1. I've replaced 2 windshields in a '96 Cherokee and 1 in an '88 Comanche all within the last year. They run $250 each, installed in the middle Georgia area. Not sure what the prices are like in different parts of the country.
  2. Might not be the cause of the over heat, but a clogged heater core definitely won't help. Easy to clear the heater core. Just pop the lines off of it where it goes through the firewall. With low pressure water hose, alternate between the top and bottom tubes until it runs clear (might take multiple times and let it run for a few minutes).
  3. Glad it worked out well for you. I finally got around to doing Cruser's distributor index. My distributor was way off. Strangely it didn't make any difference performance wise, my 0 - 60 times are still the same. My knock sensor went way down (previous 30-50, current 0 - 5) so I assume that means the engine is timed much better now. I'm guessing the ECU was doing a pretty good job of correcting the advance and the MSD multi spark and super coil were making up for the bad factory timing. Lol
  4. Looks super clean. I wish the paint and body was in that good of shape on mine.
  5. Not the same for HO engines, they don't run an ignition control module. Much easier. On the back of the coil (mounted on front passenger side of the engine) there is a two prong weather pack connector. The ECU side is what you use for the MSD ignition pick ups. Use the same white and small red wires as the RENIX , but I don't remember which is positive and negative on the plug. The output side of the MSD box (black and orange wires) will go to the coil, once again I don't remember which is negative or positive. If you want to make it look nice pick up some GM weather proof 2 prong connectors t
  6. If it's being sold as an Eliminator make sure it's actually an Eliminator package (somebody didn't just throw stickers on it like some "Rubicon"). Should have 4.0 and manual or auto, and most importantly full floor console and bucket seats. It may or may not have the Eliminator 10 hole aluminum rims. If in doubt you can run the VIN to check what it came out of the factory as vs what someone did to it.
  7. Good call. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with the look and performance. I've had 31s on my XJs and TJ with stock gearing and they still had reasonable acceleration and mpg. Once you go to 33s you really need to regear or swap axles and that gets exponentially more expensive and difficult.
  8. Checked the REM this morning and you all were right. The diagnostics and gages only displayes the sensor values. The +/- thing was just for tires, speedo, fuel, wideband and something else (looked like burn rate maybe?). I stand corrected and apologize for causing any confusion. I still think it would be a useful tool if you plan on swapping injectors, using forced induction (MAP/baro readings) or changing spark advance.
  9. I haven't needed to mess with any of the settings yet, but it has +/- settings for short temp and long term fuel trim stuff. Will have to go back and look at it tomorrow and see what else was in there.
  10. Go for it, you won't be disappointed. 😁 It's pretty simple, but if you run into issues pm me and I can walk you through it. I set my rev limiter at 4800. Not sure if that's the ideal setting, but it seemed like a good compromise between red line (5k) and hitting the limiter all the time (4k). Maybe 4500 might be better? 🤷‍♂️ The rev limiter seems to be pretty accurate according to my REM. When the switches are set to 4800, it's 4800 dead on the nose.
  11. I think you hit the nail on the head. The key is to make sure EVERYTHING is operating correctly. I've had 4 clutch fans go out on me over the years (2 different XJs, a TJ and MJ). It's not like the fan just dies over night, it's very invidious. You notice temps start creeping up till one day you realize that you seem to be over heating an awful lot lately.
  12. Ogjeep, Looks good and nice video! I like that classic California low rider look on a mini truck. I've never played with the blocks before. Does that cause any issues with axle wrap? Have you looked at getting a RENIX Engine Monitor (REM)? I have one in mine and love it. If you're planning on adding a turbo you'll need different injectors. A REM makes it real nice to look at/adjust fuel trim, duty cycle, pulse width, ect.
  13. That's a brilliant idea. Is that a regular remote oil filter set up or something specifically made for filtering coolant? It'd be nice if I could get one that used the same filter as the oil filter. I converted mine over to the HO style filter (what ever the threads are on that). I have multiple 4.0 Jeeps and it's easier to just keep one filter in stock for all of them, not accidentally put wrong filter on vehicle.
  14. Thanks for the link. Those are really nice, but $160 is kind of steep. I paid $40 for my LED headlights and they are bright indeed. Maybe it my current ones burn out, crack, etc I'll bite the bullet and swap over to those ones. In the meantime, I'd think you could just tap off the front turn signal and run it to the yellow wire in the headlight. Wouldn't even need to do an LED flasher unless your turn signals were LED too. Not sure what would happen if you run the DRL white LED at the same time you're running the turn signal amber LED, but I don't think it will cause any problems. I'm running
  15. Installed the flowkooler water pump on my 1988 RENIX 4.0. Everything was straight forward, just like installing a factory water pump. After 30 mins of running I had a slight leak at the bottom driver's side corner. Retorqued the mounting bolts and everything was good. A word of caution; this pump does flow more than a factory unit and will create higher pressures in your cooling system. That's good for getting out air pockets and general cooling, but not good if you have old hoses, bad connections or a weak radiator/heater core. I replaced all of the hoses just as a precaution/general maintena
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