james-mc

Yep. I made sure to scrape the paint and i use the course wire brush to clean the screw and contact point. I'm beginning to wonder if maybe the ac clutch is drawing too much current. I might try adding some pag oil to the system. GF ran the defrost this morning on way to work (25 mi) and it didnt melt or begin to melt the fuse. This leads me to believe that it may have something to do with the AC compressor clutch itself.

I think eventually I'm going to have to pull the fuse box and replace some dirty and corroded terminals. The P.O. had a master cylinder leak that dripped some brake fluid on the fuse box. I sent quite some time trying to clean the corrosion and residue but I think I might be ahead to replace some of the nastier terminals. I bet there is still some gunk in between the terminals I can't get.

Also as far as ground refreshing I gave it a try with the parts I had on hand. I had everything except for the oxguard. Also i tried to clean some more gunk from terminals with a q-tip and some iso alcohol. After about 20-25 minutes on MAX AC it didnt melt the fuse. However when I pulled the blower fuse it was hot to the touch, almost on the verge of melting. Not too much longer and I think it would have melted. I haven't been running the AC or the blower motor at all when driving because I don't want this jeep to burn to the ground lol.

Its a plastic clip. I finally got new one to stay on the speedo. The one oreillys sold me i had to really sink it on there and then slide the retaining clip forward for it to work. Speedo still bounces but not as bad. I had to replace it because the cable housing on my old one was deteriorating and the clip broke off at the cable housing. But i think this one should work. It is longer but i ran it back to the gear on the trans and zip tied it along the way. I tried my best to make sure there wasn't too tight bends on it. The new one is a CA3068 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/pioneer-inc/engine-parts---mounts/transmission---transaxle/transmission-parts/speedometer-cable/d60839b9f204/pioneer-inc-speedometer-cable/pio0/ca3068/v/a/2224/automotive-suv-1989-jeep-cherokee

Thanks Cruiser I will have to do that. Sorry for the late reply. I thought I was following this post but wasnt. Ill gather the supplies I need this weekend and will give that a try. I might also just go ahead and install the new blower motor while I'm at. The past week ive been trying to find a compatible speedometer cable as the one oreillys gave me doesnt engage my speedo.

I have not. the only thing I've done with the grounds was pull them off, scrape the Paint, clean the eyelets, and put them back on. I bought the stuff to run another ground from the blower motor to the engine compartment. The blower motor does have a spot for some sort of vent hose that goes in the bottom. And I do have a new blower motor in the garage. I didn't put it on yet because it was a loose fuse causing the blower motor not to work when I got the truck

Hello everyone. Well I have found my next problem on this ol jeep. Yesterday I recharged the A/C system and after letting it run on Max AC with the blower on high I noticed a burning smell. Turns out the 25a blower fuse was melting. I'm wondering where to start looking. I first thought maybe the fuse terminal contacts were creating some heat as they were a little loose and dirty. I tried cleaning them the best I could and used precision needle nose to pinch them back together. I let the AC run for about 10 minutes and checked the fuse. It was hot to the touch. So I'm thinking it has to have something to do with the AC clutch engaging but I'm not sure. When I was flushing / burping the coolant I had let the blower motor run for a solid 25 or 30 minutes and it never melted the fuse or even allowed the fuse to heat up. Any suggestions on what I should check next?

Anyone have any advise on what window cranks will work on an 1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer? Ive been looking but alot of the sites will say "doesn't fit" after entering my vehicles info. Previous owner had put small vice grips on the posts and I'm looking to find the right handles before it smashes or strips the splines on the crank handle posts.

Well today I managed to change the water pump (and brake booster while I was at it). Old water pump was rusty but still pretty solid. I didnt toss it as it still seemed to work. I went ahead and changed it anyways. I kept the old one and cleaned it up just in case I ever need it. The problem was bad Reservoir cap and an air bubble at the water pump. I filled the reservoir first. Then I filled the rad from the upper hose. I also removed the plug on the t-stat housing and filled from there with a small engine funnel. I let it run while with the cap loose and heat on high. Tightened it up and took her for a drive (about 2 miles). It didnt overheat so far. It sat around the 200-210 range. Now on to the new door lock cylinders.

I havent had much time to work on the ol jeep this week. Work has us doing OT. But I think I'm going to replace the pump and hoses. Pump wobbles and the hoses are old. Might as well change them now before it leaves me stranded in the future. Parts are about $70-80 total.

Ok. Its like a $40 part from what ive seen. The hose seemed like it was pretty stiff with the tstat open but I just couldnt feel a good flow like I have on other vehicles. I didnt get take it for a drive since it was getting late. But I can say once the engine hit 190 and the tstat opened the engine did cool down to around 165-175 (according to the temp guage). After letting it idle for about half an hour the guage sat around 200. I will take it for a drive this weekend. If it doesnt overheat I might put in some of that coolant system cleaner in her and drive a little bit before the flush.

Also when i pinched the upper hose after the tstat opened the hose felt stiffer and hot. But i didnt feel any sort of rush of fluid when i was letting off though. With the engine off the upper hose doesn't feel as stiff.

This one has a few years on it from what i understand. Oreillys has the new pump in stock. I guess i could pull it and inspect it then if its bad run and get the new one. I'm going to do the flush this weekend. Ill have to run some tests on the pump. Could I loosen the serp belt and spin the water pump while that tstat plug is out to see if fluid pumps out of the plug hole?

Its funny you mention that because I noticed my pump had kind of a wobble to it and i was thinking maybe it backed enough to not spin the impeller

Also added more antifreeze to between max and min level. Then i added even more antifreeze with the engine running until it quit sucking my reservoir dry. Installed cap back on and let idle for a bit. Then I cracked the cap until pressure leaked out and more coolant filled the reservoir to the max line. After that no more binging and purging of coolant from/into the reservoir. After shutting the engine off the coolant settles to the halfway mark where I originally filled it. I'm going to write that issue off as a bad cap not holding pressure.