BootsNTrucks

I’ll hit him up, he’s going much further than I intend to with that twin I beam build

Hey folks long time no check in! Backstory Had an '88 Comanche almost 10 years ago and had to sell it due to life circumstances (Moving from SoCal to VA) and over the years I missed it. Now that we are settled in Ohio I bought another clean one owner '89 (Short bed, 2WD, 4.0L stick, under 100k) from SoCal and my dad drove it out to me. It made the trip no problem with a motorcycle in the bed of truck. Unfortunately the second time I was driving it (First time being to the BMV to register) a deer came sprinting out of the tree line and clipped the front corner of the truck. I was more than a little disappointed to say the least, but ultimately this gives me a reason to be start building the truck a little bit earlier than I was originally planning. I did a couple searches on here and there are a couple forums about folks that were trying build much more aggressive trucks than I am looking to build. I was already thinking about building this truck into a mild prerunner to bring some of the SoCal culture to Ohio. I'm not looking to launch this thing off dunes (Remember Ohio) or crawl it (I have a Rebel on 37s for that kind of offroading) but rather, bomb the occasional dirt road. I was thinking about this parts: Body Replace both front fenders with (pictures of these don't look too ridiculous): https://advfiberglass.com/products/1986-1992-jeep-comanche-fenders?srsltid=AfmBOoqC8d1jyVwthywPcpytK6Up6kbpwWnTiJhIT2jOKoEi_-X8dWrD (Eventually) Replace the bed sides with: https://hannemannfiberglass.com/product/jeep-comanche-short-bedside-3″-bulge/ Replace cracked header panel with:https://www.jegs.com/i/Crown-Automotive/077/55055233AEK/10002/-1 I do remember from my previous truck that the unibody "Frame" on the front is very weak, I am planning on adding some of those premade weld on kits. Suspension/Wheels I'm thinking a 4.5" lift kit that will eventually be upgraded to a set of single bypasses down the road (Rusty's 4.5 spring pack kit? Open to suggestions) and some 33s. Since the front is a tube axle I was thinking about sliding a second reinforcing tube inside for extra strength. TLDR: Looking to build the truck for the prerunner vibe and can handle a few hits without welding tube through out this whole truck. Its a run around town toy that has no ambitions of competing in Baja or KOH.

Was cruising craigslist and saw this, http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/5694020764.htmlmaybe somebody on here will giver her a good home.

Update: I was going to set the guy stew for a bit and earlier today he emailed me asking if I'd like to come take a look at the truck. He as also changed the CL price from 1000 to 900, been listed 13 days now. -Asked about AC/Serp belt and he said "come to think of it, the truck never had AC. I'm sorry, I've been working on an old Ford I just bought, and it has AC that's broken." -As I am from California (just going to college in Flagstaff) my other car is registered in CA. It would cost me an extra $15 a month to add the MJ BUT it has to be registered in CA. So I asked about the smog and was told "never passed smog. It's been in Flagstaff and Winslow it's whole life, where it's not required." Simple solution is leave it registered here in Flagstaff, but I am willing to bet it will be more expensive that $15 for it to have its own AZ policy. Or I buy it and drive it all the way back home and get it smogged risk it failing and then have that mess on my hands.... -He does say that there haven't been any modifications to the emissions. -He confirmed it has the standard cluster, no tach. Frankly the more I think about this truck, the more of a headache this is giving me. Is this $500-$750 truck that I'm just planning on using to haul a little bit of stuff and fly down dirt roads with worth this much trouble? I am beginning to think no it is not....

That is how it car buying should be if I'm being honest....

I wasn't aware you could get a 44 in a 2wd....i thought it had to be towing and 4x4

I just wanted to ask the experts, and it would appear I am on the correct path. I don't really need the truck I just miss my MJ back in California. Plus I figure this would be the perfect truck for blasting down dirt roads out here. Guess I'll monitor it and hit him up sometime next week and see if his song has changed. I want to say this truck has already been listed at least 2 weeks. Can't imagine many people are jumping at this 2wd truck out here

So I was cruising Craigslist and stumbled across this: https://flagstaff.cr...5192497825.html. I emailed the guy and he provided the following additional information: 160K, 2nd owner, truck has never sat, tires are bad with minimal tread depth (no belts yet) and some minor ballooning, save for the tires he would have no doubts about jumping in and running 500 miles in it, says the motor stays cool. To me this truck is about a $500-750 truck with the but the bad tires (I figure about about $400-500 for a decent set), the generous amounts of bondo, non functioning seat belt, the dents, and the no locking doors all worry me. I asked him if he was willing to deal and he said "Compared to what else is on craigslist right now, for more money, $1000 is a steal for a good ruining truck. I'd work with you at $900 but that's more than fair in my opinion." While there is only one other MJ on craigslist in the area (the crack pot wants 4500 for this http://flagstaff.cra...200209167.html)I feel this $900 is a bit high for this truck. So I come to the experts.... Also side bar, stuff to look for if I go to look at it?

Saw this on craiglist. Never heard of this only 100 made edition of truck. Is this a thing?https://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/cto/5066988156.html

I would think it would depend on which package your truck has. Mine has the towing package with the Dana 44 rear end. We used the stock bumper and hitch a few times (just pulling the truck out of mud) without any issues. I now have a big steel bumper on the back and I feel like has long as you weren't trying to deadlift it with a crane or something it would be alright.

Mines just metal but I welded some tabs and hooks and thats where my hi-lift is (sitting on the floor but tied off to the hooks), also my shovel, axe, tow strap, shackles, and other stuff I don't want getting jacked or out in the weather. Also have a few fluids strapped there as well. Just make sure you put something between the wall and the tool otherwise the rattle will drive you insane. I used like a foil bubble wrap which also helped quiet the interior of the truck while driving. Sorry you can't really see the tabs and I can't find one with all the tools in place but you get the idea.

If your dead set on doing it I would recommend these...hell I'd recommend these just for wheeling. http://www.t-mfab.com/front-xjmj-stiffeners/

I know this is a old forum but hopefully some of you wise sages will see it and spare your $0.02 We hydro-locked the engine when we went through a puddle and the hose that runs from the exhaust manifold to the air box was displaced by the water. It appears that only the first connecting rod is broke. I have yet to pull off the oil pan and check the others because that axle makes it just frustrating. I have another 4.0 out of a '89 XJ that I picked up for cheap. We were spinning it over and it had really good compression (68-75ish) in about 50% of the cylinders and horrible (5-28ish) in the other 50%. Tore into it and discovered the bearings were shot and whole lower engine looked worn inside, top looked ok. Mine was a still a decent running engine at only 194K but started to get a little tired (still could do a peelout with A/Ts and Dana 44 LSD). From what I'm reading it sounds I have several options. Door #1) Rebuild Kit Pro: Have everything I would need. Truck should run for a long time. Con: $$$, sounds like there are a lot of parts that I am not going to need (i.e. timing kit, oil pump, freeze plugs), less power Door #2) Replace crank if bent (probably not a bad idea to replace just on principal), replace connecting rods, bearings, reseal pistons, and replacing gaskets on my way back out. Pro: Cheap Con: If I'm in there seems pointless not to go the whole 9 yards and just do everything. Its easier to work on engines out of the vehicle that in it. Less power Door #3) Replace crank and connecting rods with ones from a 4.2, replacing gaskets on my way out. Pro: POWER, cheaper than rebuild and stroker kits Con: Issues making all of the pieces work together correctly. Door #4) Stroker Kit Pro: EASY POWER, pieces should have no problem working together correctly, everything I need should be there, truck should run for a long time Con: $$$$ Door #5) Combine the two engines using the best of both Pro: Possibly the cheapest option Con: Need to have block machined, gasket set, lower of XJ looked like it had seen its fair share of miles, gamble on how well/long this engine will run. The plan before this was to wait till I graduated college in a year or so, get a job and get settled then stroker the Jeep. Now I am at the point of do I just rebuild it and then possibly in a few years tear into it and stroker it or just bite the bullet and stroker now? I guess it comes down to how much more power does a stroker really give you? I assuming that just by rebuilding I am going to see quite an improvement. What do you guys think?

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/154-0911-jeep-4-liter-engine-myth-busting-true-lies/?sm_id=social_20140722_28225126?__federated=1#__federated=1 third one down

That tonneau cover!