Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dyasko

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hmm..definitely agree on the cage but I’ll have to invest in a tube bender before that. Do you think plating the frame behind the cab or tying the bumpers into the bottom of the frame instead of just the sides would help at all?
  2. Yeah for $35 I figured I’d make my life a little easier. I’ve had a hell of a time trying to hammer shims in before with a lot of preload. Question for you guys: have you ever had problems with excessive flex in the windshield frame? I’ve had a windshield pop the seal before and I exploded my windshield from the unibody flexing on the trail today. I need to figure out which areas I can plate to gain more stiffness. I’ve already done from the front bumper to the back of the cab. Thinking I might need to reinforce where the LCA brackets used to be...
  3. There’s a spec for how much you can spread your specific axle. I know it’s listed in the ARB manuals. It’s not more than a few thousandths and you measure it with your dial gauge. I haven’t done it yet but I’ve read it doesn’t take much
  4. I'll be installing an ARB with the new gears so adequate preload will be important for proper setup. Rather than mess with driving shims, I decided to build a cheap case spreader. Bought a 3/4" grade 8 threaded rod from McMaster and some 1/2" bar stock from my metal supplier and made a simple case spreader for about $40. I didn't take a picture with the rod welded in the holes. We'll see how this thing works when it's time to do gears.
  5. In January, I found a HP D44 for sale locally so I snatched it up. Did a lot of research and slowly started ordering parts and working. Parts availability has definitely been affected by covid and I've had a hard time finding certain things like gears, bearings, and shafts. Axle came out of a 1977.5-79 F150 Supercab. It was ~67" wide from WMS. Because it was from a supercab, it was set up for leaf springs and has 3" diameter x 1/2" wall tubes. First order of business was to remove the caliper spindles, shafts, and caliper brackets. Then I had to grind off the spr
  6. I've wanted to go to KOH for years but I've never been able to line it up. Got lucky and I had 4 days off this year, so I spent the second half of the week in the desert with a few buddies. We had a great time exploring the course, watching the race, and of course did some wheeling.
  7. Been a while and a lot has happened so I'll try to write some posts to document it all. Had a 10 day covid quarantine over Christmas, so I used that time to work on some projects I had prepped. First on the list were the TNT radius arms I'd been sitting on for a few months. My plan was to weld on unibody stiffeners for the mid-section at the same time to reduce frame flex and give the belly pan a more solid mounting surface. I started my quarantine by prepping the unibody and welding on the stiffeners. I bought a pair of TMR fab stiffeners because that's what was avail
  8. Thank you. Agreed on the color Shortly after I lost my J, I ran into a guy with an XJ that was missing the EEP and I offered him $20 for his J, but he declined, so it's been an EEP ever since
  9. A winch had been on the list for a while too, but buying a winch and a bumper at the same time ain't cheap. I didn't like how far all the bumpers on the market stuck out from the grille so I decided to make a recessed bumper to fit the winch under the radiator. I saw boostwerks and reson46's designs which both used a warn m8000 winch. I wanted to use one of warn's new evo xr 10,000lb winches, which is slightly bigger. I knew I was going to have to cut out the stock crossmember, which wasn't a big deal because I knew the new bumper would increase the strength in this area anyway. S
  10. Thanks! I know I've seen a few guys run tube off the rear bumper. I think I'll do something similar to that soon. I've gotten lucky so far
  11. I wanted to keep a full-size spare, but the biggest that would fit underneath without hitting the exhaust was a 31. I decided to slap a tire carrier onto my rear bumper. It definitely wasn't designed for it, but what's an extra 50lbs on some 3/16" plate? Bought the spindle kit from Ruffstuff and went at it. I knew I wanted the tire offset to the right side, for less stress on the spindle, for rear visibility and to not completely cover the Jeep decal on the bed. Welded the spindle on... Added the base tube next. Made it about 35" just bigger than the tire. D
  12. The truck had come with some less than desirable nerf bars, but I didn't play in the rocks too much for the first 2 years of ownership so getting rid of them wasn't top priority. They were also $#!&tily welded to the frame (thanks PO ). I started to get more into rocks so it was time to ditch this old junk. Step 1: Remove $#!&ty nerf bars I cut as much as I could off with a portaband and then it was time to eat sparks. I carefully cut as much as I could off with a cut off disk. Then switched to a thin grinding disk, then finished it off with
  13. I was having some problems with unibody flex and I even popped my windshield moulding off and broke the urethane bead on the bottom of the windshield on the trail one day. I decided it was time for some frame stiffening so I bought Ruffstuff's front unibody stiffener kit. 3/16" plate that came bare for welding. Excellent quality as you'd expect from Ruffstuff. I chose to paint with a weld through zinc primer so that the inside would be protected from rust. It was my first time welding to the frame. I used 0.024" wire and took it real slow. Tried to lay ~4" beads at a tim
  14. I was having trouble with my RE track bar bracket flexing and moving around which was causing a loud pop when I'd turn or flex the front suspension. I think the design of most track bars for these trucks places a lot of stress on the mounting points and the frame on the left side. I would tighten the bolts down as tight as I could with red locktite, but they would still loosen up after the first trip. Rubicon express makes a bracket for their track bar and the bracket is pre drilled for this purpose, but I decided to save some money and make my own. Credit to Reson46 for the inspiration on thi
  15. I knew I had some rust in the floorpans and I wanted to take care of it before it got too bad. I pulled the seat and tore up the old vinyl which was ripping and generally falling apart. Found a decent amount of surface rust on both sides, but luckily nothing had gotten too bad yet. I hit everything with a wire brush until it was clean, painted with some rustoleum and bedlined the whole thing. I put in some knock off dynamat to insulate from tranny and exhaust heat a bit. I don't know if it made it any quieter. For flooring I used some A
  • Create New...