kaidenlem

Hello all...I've had this idea for a couple years now, and could never get the 4.0 to run correctly no matter what I did. Also the BA/10 met its match when the rear spline came apart and destroyed the case...Anyways, I got a 350 SBC engine free from a buddy out of his running and driving 72 C20, as he was going to LS swap it and use the frame for another project. Here is my thought process-this truck will not be driven every day. Just simply trying to make a halfway decent looking running and driving truck to take to car shows, maybe even some light race tracks within 20 miles or so of my house. You can buy the Novak mounts for a decent price if you get them on sale-however-making them may be your best bet to fit in your own truck how you'd like. My truck being a 2wd (stock height at time of writing this mind you), leaves me with quite a bit of room up front and has little interference with the front axle. However, headers I have found ended up being the biggest issue. I have tried the same style as Novak headers, the factory SBC manifolds and long tubes-all to no avail. My next step is to try and level the truck and see if the long tube small headers will fit...this would be the easiest as I plan to go with some form of header collector mufflers, plus the long tubes were free.99. Also, the entire wiring harness through the truck was trashed. It had gotten wet over the years, melted, clutch fluid dumped on the connector, you name it, it happened. My plan since this will be a weekend truck is to make my own wiring using the rear half along with a few of the connectors in the front and for lights and the basics. The entire truck will be ran with a standalone touch switch panel, since the buttons can be momentary for anything you like, got mine on sale for $40 bucks so.... I'll be making my own gauge panel using sheet metal also for standard analog gauges. We are talking BASIC for drivability. As of making this post, Jan. 12 2026, the engine and transmission are bolted in the truck. For now it'll be a TH350 out of some unknown vehicle, but I eventually would like to run a saginaw or muncie transmission. You MAY have to dent the firewall or slide the engine on the mounts forwards or backwards to accommodate bell housing because it is CLOSE. For radiator, I will be keeping it Comanche style for the full width and cooling performance. Going to try the stock radiator with 2 electric fans (knowing full well I'll be buying the aluminum Comanche radiator off eBay with 3 cooling fans for a couple hundred bucks in the near future). This can be utilized with a SBC swivel top radiator hose connector as well as an electric water pump that will allow you to interchange the inlet side to the drivers side for the Comanche radiator. I'll be using a basic electric fuel pump, you can run mechanical, I'm just going this route since I already have an electric pump that isn't trash and it'll be a lot easier to change if it ever fails. Block off plate to close the hole. AND if you use the Novak engine mounts, the short SBC intake and Quadrajet with a slim air cleaner will clear the hood without modifications. I will however be using washers and longer bolts under the hood hinges for air flow out the back. The factory fuel sender I have removed the pump so now it is merely a pickup tube. So anyways, all that is needed to be done is have the wiring connected all together and the front end put back on the truck. My garage isn't heated, dirt floor, and it is winter here in Illinois so more updates will be coming in the near future. I will keep everyone posted, thanks! Hope this helps some of those who are looking for inspiration. It doesn't have to be difficult!

Hello all...I've had this idea for a couple years now, and could never get the 4.0 to run correctly no matter what I did. Also the BA/10 met its match when the rear spline came apart and destroyed the case...Anyways, I got a 350 SBC engine free from a buddy out of his running and driving 72 C20, as he was going to LS swap it and use the frame for another project. Here is my thought process-this truck will not be driven every day. Just simply trying to make a halfway decent looking running and driving truck to take to car shows, maybe even some light race tracks within 20 miles or so of my house. You can buy the Novak mounts for a decent price if you get them on sale-however-making them may be your best bet to fit in your own truck how you'd like. My truck being a 2wd (stock height at time of writing this mind you), leaves me with quite a bit of room up front and has little interference with the front axle. However, headers I have found ended up being the biggest issue. I have tried the same style as Novak headers, the factory SBC manifolds and long tubes-all to no avail. My next step is to try and level the truck and see if the long tube small headers will fit...this would be the easiest as I plan to go with some form of header collector mufflers, plus the long tubes were free.99. Also, the entire wiring harness through the truck was trashed. It had gotten wet over the years, melted, clutch fluid dumped on the connector, you name it, it happened. My plan since this will be a weekend truck is to make my own wiring using the rear half along with a few of the connectors in the front and for lights and the basics. The entire truck will be ran with a standalone touch switch panel, since the buttons can be momentary for anything you like, got mine on sale for $40 bucks so.... I'll be making my own gauge panel using sheet metal also for standard analog gauges. We are talking BASIC for drivability. As of making this post, Jan. 12 2026, the engine and transmission are bolted in the truck. For now it'll be a TH350 out of some unknown vehicle, but I eventually would like to run a saginaw or muncie transmission. You MAY have to dent the firewall or slide the engine on the mounts forwards or backwards to accommodate bell housing because it is CLOSE. For radiator, I will be keeping it Comanche style for the full width and cooling performance. Going to try the stock radiator with 2 electric fans (knowing full well I'll be buying the aluminum Comanche radiator off eBay with 3 cooling fans for a couple hundred bucks in the near future). This can be utilized with a SBC swivel top radiator hose connector as well as an electric water pump that will allow you to interchange the inlet side to the drivers side for the Comanche radiator. I'll be using a basic electric fuel pump, you can run mechanical, I'm just going this route since I already have an electric pump that isn't trash and it'll be a lot easier to change if it ever fails. Block off plate to close the hole. AND if you use the Novak engine mounts, the short SBC intake and Quadrajet with a slim air cleaner will clear the hood without modifications. I will however be using washers and longer bolts under the hood hinges for air flow out the back. The factory fuel sender I have removed the pump so now it is merely a pickup tube. So anyways, all that is needed to be done is have the wiring connected all together and the front end put back on the truck. My garage isn't heated, dirt floor, and it is winter here in Illinois so more updates will be coming in the near future. I will keep everyone posted, thanks! Hope this helps some of those who are looking for inspiration. It doesn't have to be difficult!

It definitely seemed odd that it had ran perfectly fine, then wouldn’t start the next morning. Cranked and cranked and cranked, not even a pop. I unplugged and waited maybe 10-15 minutes, came back out, and tried to fire. Even if it is the cps, definitely plan on redoing every ground I can, especially since I plan on driving the hell out of it lol. Also I’m not super worried on replacing things like that, mostly since they aren’t expensive and that way there’s less chance of them failing (maybe but China)

Went through and cleaned all grounds that I could find, including the starter and coil relay…battery posts are clean as well. Unplugged every sensor while testing and cleaned with electrical cleaner and reinstalled. It depends. Started fine after sitting the other day and after heat soaking. My next guess would either be the cps going bad or ignition module. Only way I know this is by unplugging cps, waiting a couple minutes, then will try to fire but still will not. I plan to do a full wiring upgrade kit on this thing, especially since I plan on it being my DD truck.

Been having issues with my 89 here over the last few days. First off, it has never ran good since I purchased it nearly 2 years ago. It will try and fire SOMETIMES, other times I get nothing. It has a new fuel pump with new filter, new coil, new plug wires, new plugs, new cap and rotor, new injectors, new tps, and cleaned off the cps. Anyone had an intermittent spark issue on these? I've troubleshot everything I could think of and have made it no where in the last 2 days. IMG_6117.mov

Didn’t know it was a metric ton until after I got home and looked underneath it and saw the springs and rear end…got lucky because it is 100% rust free in southern Illinois

I will be able to get some pics for you tomorrow morning, it is aftermarket of course but it is under the dash. It is a really clean install though. Definitely glad it came with it to pull my 18ft trailer.

Is anyone able to look into this truck? Thanks

1989 Jeep Comanche, bought from 2nd owner out of Leadington, MO. I believe it is a metric ton, no badges, but has upgraded leafs and a dana 44 with an installed brake controller. It is a Pioneer model, has the 4.0, and is a 5 speed long bed. Currently sitting at 202k miles and just replaced injectors and it is running.

ISO Full dash for my project MJ. Can be any color, along with bench or factory bucket seats with hardware. Located in Southern Illinois

Well, you guys know the rig by now--1987 Chief edition (white shortbed) that has passed many hands. First idea was to put a 327 in, then I found some 302 motors I had so I was going to go that route, but now I'm thinking big lift and tires and an LS powerplant with an automatic behind it. Got busy moving and haven't had time to mess with it. My 87 Pioneer will be done shortly after I get it painted and put back together. My question is, what is the best company for a large lift for one of these MJ's? I already plan on building a custom 3 link kit for it anyways, but I'm looking at mainly using Rusty's parts for the build. And what is a good auto trans option for 35's? Gears will be 4.88 with lockers, and SYE kit and custom driveshaft. Not going to bob the bed, I still plan on using it a decent amount. Also looking at different cage setups for ideas in the future. Thanks y'all.

Already have the transfer case so it'd be a no-brainer. I already have the t-case and engine, I'd just need a bellhousing adapter and the AX15. May be easier to go that route for sure.

Exactly shouldn't be too bad since I can make all interior custom also. But thinking staying with carb setup, as well as a T5, manual or AOD auto. But also going to keep 4x4 setup in case I want it in the future. This truck still has the 4.0, auto, and t-case. But will have to switch them since the wiring is sliced and control modules gone. Just want something simple to play around with when I'm bored. Feel free to chime in on any ideas, because It'll happen once I get my paint job done on my pioneer.

Just what the title implies to make this a fun weekend short cruise/RACE truck on the dirt oval.... PLEASE PLEASE leave some feedback...already have the engine and mounts figured out

Congrats man!