75sv1

OK, sounds like D. The article posted covers a lot of the culprits. From the pic, it looks like a little larger tires and no lift. ?? I would follow the article to an extent. Check tire pressures. Note if any cords are broke. See to get them balanced. If still, DW, rotate tires. Still DW, will need to check components. I'd probably do this before anything. Possibly an alignment. Mine was doing fine. It was rough aligned. Then I had it aligned and I had DW. I had a lot of new components. I noticed latter one of the TRE tapers was to deep, so lose. I did fix that and still DW. One of the control arm brackets had a wallowed hole, possibly both. I did upgrade from RC to JKS. A bunch of other stuff. For a while no DW. Then it started back again. It actually ripped the track bar bracket at the axle off. If you think DW is bad, doing 55 and then veering right quickly is even worse. Yes, in traffic, but I was in the right lane. I thought I broke the frame. Well, sort of the Issue. I had the bracket welded back on. It broke again. In the end, the frame was cracked near the steering gear box. What brand of steering stabilizer do you have? I'm running the OME. Might see if there is play in your present one. Detach one side. Push pull. Shouldn't move much if any. 1/8 most. Also, look into an alignment. They should check components if they are good. What area are you located? Some shops know Jeeps, others don't.

Although my experiences with DW might vary from Eagle's POV in some instances, I will say ' downright terrifying' is right. Nearly jerking the steering wheel out of your hand is close too. I will note, that whatever you are experience might lead to DW in the future. I am wondering if your vehicle is shifting side to side, abruptly or lane change. I'd check the trackbar bushings and mounting. With larger tires than stock, I went with a WJ steering stabilize shock. Some will say its a mask, or not needed. Also, the Y-link steering has its issues. Might Check Ruffstuff for an item called 'The Cure'. I haven't used it. I'd also look at Kevin's Offroad for items. Although your experience might be termed 'annoying', I wouldn't take it lightly. I had a stock XJ, and it would shift a bit. Usually, I could control it. I was on I70 Toll Road in PA. There were two Ford F450 or so class Pickup next to me in a construction zone, one with a trailer. So, the road was tight fit. I hit a drainage grate. It was either tangle with the trucks or up the hill. Neither a good choice. I held on and kept it under control. Also, check the frame around the steering gear box. On mine, that was one of the issues. Also control arm bushings. One mine the uppers had wear in the sheet metal.

True DW in neither 'spooky' nor annoying'. Its beyond 'annoying' to be riding a bucking bronco in front of a Semi doing 70 mph. Been there a few times. Stupid me. Still, I would be concerned that your situation does go to DW. Balance tires and check air pressure. Trackbar, ball joints, TREs etc. I'd even check motor mounts. Gearbox tightness, also replace the aluminum spacer with a steel one.

I'm running JK or WJ rims on one of my XJs. Spacers in the rear on a Ford 8.8. The front I did the WJ Big Brake upgrade and used a hub bearing for a WJ. I do have plans to ditch the spacer in the rear.

Not to your specs. Only things I could say to your specs would be the Carolinas or West Coast. West Coast = $$ and pay not as good. Id say Midwest. With money = travel. Plenty of beaches around the World.

I've tried Ozium on car interiors. Takes out the smoker smell. You can find it at True Value or the Auto Parts Stores. I've used K2R to lift oil out of wood. It is made to remove stains from fabrics. Not sure if it would work as well as other stuff.

I'd also say how tall are you? I'm roughly 6 ft. I have an XJ at 4.5 and had 31"s and now 32.5"s on it. I have to scouch up to sit in it. I am working on one with 2" lift and probably 30.5". Also, another with 3.5" lift and the 32.5"s. Since you have a manual, 31'S should work if you get some 3.55 geared axles, stock XJs. You would need to have the rear perches from an MJ welded on. Edit: I'll add, I think 31"s look a bit small on a 4.5 lift. 32"-33" about right. Also, the larger the tires, the more $$. Might price tires first.

I use NAPA water pumps. Seem OK. Some will insist on MOPAR. I would recommend a MOPAR clutch fan though, especially if you intend to use a HD (2-row or 3-row) Radiator.

As stated before, the thermostat only controls the lower end. You do want to run at a certain temp to heat the oil. This removes water from the oil. With newer oils this might not be as much of a problem. I have seen congealed oil. It filled the oil pan. I would at least run a 195, a 197 or 205 for mileage. The 160 was used for drag racing in the early EFI days, late 80's. I tricked the computer and gave a bit better ETAs. There are other things to do for over heating. #1 trans cooler.

OK, but your not running that era fuel injectors. I might be off on this, though. And Yes, I am thinking of the newer OBD2 fuel pressure. I was looking into this from the 99+ intake upgrade. Jordan on MallCrawling did this upgrade and latter injectors. Also, upgrade d with HESCO adjustable regulator. Then someone mentioned an 93 or 95 Eagle Vision regulator. ??? Edit: Here's the Link: http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?6355-4-0L-99-intake-manifold-swap-with-REAL-DYNO-NUMBERS! See the last couple of pages.

I bought them off a guy that goes by Cobra Marty. I'd probably check Ebay. That pressure seems low to me. Is you Fuel Pressure Regulator on the Fuel Rail or on the Fuel Pump? The latter XJs had the Fuel Pressure Regulators on the Fuel pump. I think they go to a higher pressure. I forget which regulator will match to the older Fuel Rail. It will increase the pressure to I think 50 psi. A bit out of my real on this, though. Look here: https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p22/Remanufactured%3A_12_Port_Upgraded_Injectors.html#/

I see the new FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). Is this on the fuel pump or the fuel rail? What PSI does the fuel pump deliver? Also the leak down of it (might have that term wrong)? Did you change the fuel pump? I am using the 12 hole injectors. I think they might give a bit better performance over the 4-hole Fords. They would need adapters for the '98 wiring. They are plug-n-play for 2000-up.

The price of XJs and MJs have gone up. No or little rust, I'd say you did good. If you don't have to replace a bunch of parts, then you factor that into the price. If you drive it for 3-5 years with only maintenance, pat yourself on the back. And it looks good just sitting there.

Its just not a lines matching. The bolts positions are different between the years. Also, the headlight adjusters are in a different position. I think they just bind on the brackets. Yes, I'm trying to keep the old header with new fenders.

Nice wrap job though. Looks like you have the Armour coat headers. I'd doubt they would rust then. It would be interesting about the gains or less heat from just a ceramic coated header. And the Brown Dogs look good too.

For some reason I was looking at doing this. I think I was looking at a ZJ e-brake setup.

I have wrapped a header. This was on my '75 Bricklin. Trust me, that's like sticking your head in an oven. Yes, wrapping a header will cut the heat down, a lot. I experienced rust on those headers. Scaling type rust. I had those headers ceramic coated, Jet Coated. Reduced the heat as much. No, rust. Doug Thorley makes a good ceramic coated header.

Also, hard to beat Ironman 4X4 Fabrication's quality. Yes, usually have to wait a bit. Seems both of us will wait a bit longer. I ordered mine last week. Having issues getting out the spring bolts. I want a backup plan.

Which side? I have some pairs, and I think a single of one side. Also, others have stashes. Much more than I do.

I ordered the Ironman too. They are one of the few that have 'No Lift'. I also plan an IRO Boomerang shackle. So, as described above, I'll have stock no lift, 1/2", 1" and 1-1/2" lift options. I think the Ironman is bolt on and weld on. I think Stinky Fab might have a "No Lift' shackle.

I have a set of Crown Up Countrys. I haven't installed them. A negative for me was getting the bushings in. The small ones were easy. I bought Crown bushings. I could not get them in. I measured with a caliper, and there was .060-.080 press fit. I have to use an Enerpack to spread the eye. I do have a set of OME springs. Much easier to press in the bushings. I though Rancho had a full spring set for 1.5 lift. Also, ProComp and AAL.

I went through this a few years back. Mine was more involved as it wiped out the thrust bearing and scored the crank. Fortunately, my neighbor had a good used crank. I actually used the bearings from that motor. So, I'd check crank end play. Also, I recommend people to replace the harmonic balance as a service item.

http://oldcarandtruckpictures.com/Jeeps/ What about the Half Cab and the J10, J20 and I think a J400?

I'd go with play in the steering gear box, tie rod ends worn and or trackbar. If you ever driven with out the trackbar attached, it real fun. Also, I'd check that the steering gear box is properly attached to the frame. I'd replace the stock aluminum spacer with an aftermarket steel one. Also, could be hub bearings. But you'd probably hear some noise from them.

There was a yellow one either here or on another Jeep board. They guy painted a Ford yellow and had a 5.0 in it. It looked sharp and in excellent shape.