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In-n-out is in Texas because all the Californians are moving there lol. I’m from Austin originally and the influx of Californians over the last few years was quite large. I didn’t mind in-n-out but it wasn’t anything special. I do appreciate anyplace that can deliver a consistent experience though. Heck even McDonalds is from Cali.

There is no going back from hydroboost

Awesome, thanks. I was able to get ahold of a rep there and they found the Comanche bed dimensions. He’s going to get back with me tomorrow to order.

X2 90 and up D35s went to the 9” drums.

Do you know what model you got for yours and what dealer you used? Trying to get this ordered up.

For this setup I actually trimmed and molded a switch trim holder from the left of the column and molded it into the actual bezel overlay. I have a hot knife setup now with plastic shaping tools that works very well for these kind of things. The cutout for the cigarette lighter is slightly smaller than the ones for the switch panels but there is still plenty of room to fit them in nicely. Was also looking at the clock area as a candidate but had just swapped in a really nice 91 clock. I’m going to install a Zeitronics logger and program my ECU so I wanted to mount the logger display in the dash in one of the clock panel windows. Hopefully o can get that to come out nice and clean.

I believe 92 was the first year for the police package XJ. You could definitely swap in the speed sensor for a 91-92 mj and have an electric speedo. There’s also plenty of room for custom gauges in the cluster if you wanted.

Thanks! I kept the other bezel from the police package model also which is all black. At some point I’m going to do some custom gauge faces to match everything together. I was about to go with a new 12” Holley pro dash but this looks good for now. Trying to stay true to the “resto-mod” theme.

Are you referring to the switch cover bezels with the symbols? I’ve been reproducing them in the vendors section for some time now. Good call on those stupid self tapping screws. I’ll be removing that trim piece to fix some cracks in it at some point and will swap those out.

There are two rivets that hold the whole unit together. One is a large one in the center that the pedal and teeth pivot on. The other is what the “pawl” pivots on. The lower one is normally a bit loose and gets blamed a lot for a the brake popping loose but the upper one is the real key. It sandwiches the gear plate and keeps it aligned with the pawl. If you have a dremel, press and some patience you can get the catch mechanism working right again. Also, replace the pawl spring with something much stronger. It needs to be 1” long overall or slightly shorter and have a hook on each end. I’ve been collecting these units for a few months now to start rebuilding and selling them in a core exchange basis. It’s a bit on the back burner but I could probably whip one up for you in about a week or so and you can send me your old unit as a core. Was originally planning on doing these after the hvac panels but work is starting to dry up a bit so I may have some time for both.

Just thought I’d post up some mod ideas for the dash. Here is what I’ve done so far. Double din CarPlay receiver 120mph police pkg speedo (will eventually do custom gauge faces to match to other gauges) cigarette lighter area converted to switch pod for lockers with oem switches. I’ll make a custom switch panel for the tranny and compressor or I may delete the tranny comfort switch and just wire it up for power all the time. Then I would do rock lights and compressor. The nice thing is that all the symbols and switches are completely oem looking with flow through and all. Very happy with how this turned out.

On the stock booster you don’t want anything larger than 15/16. Dual diaphragm can go to 1” but anything larger will be problematic. Hydroboost could probably get away with 1.125 but 1” would still be superior with stock brakes including ZJ or Explorer rears. Only time you’d go bigger is if the caliper piston surface area increases by a lot

ARB for 30 spline d35 rear is on back order but should be in stock in about 3 weeks.

Thanks for all the input guys. I reached out to truck covers USA. Planning on going with the same style cover as @Limeyjeeper. I’ll order the one with the toolbox also. Should be a sweet setup. Just need to make sure I have enough room for my hylift jack to be mounted over the passenger wheel well. Shouldn’t be a problem

Tried searching for the link but didn’t see one. @Limeyjeeper could you post up what you used? Reason for a folding one is that I need a hard shell and don’t want a one piece for cargo reasons.

Anyone know of a good option?

Been researching what kind of tonneau cover I can get for my truck. Would like a trifold cover and have been looking at the extang models: https://extang.com I know most go with the Downey products one or something for an early 90’s ranger. Only reference I’ve seen is in this thread where @Jeepman says he used one from a Chevy Colorado:

Hey Pete, just wondering if you’ve been able to ship these out yet or not. Thanks!

Is the only thing your looking to accomplish the 4x4 swap? Personally I’d just source those parts. It’s just the axle, tcase, driveshaft and transmission. Otherwise, a 97-99 xj has a lot to offer swap wise beyond just the 4x4.

Do they ship in pairs or was it $79/ea side?

Yes. The ZJ valve is not adjustable and if you delete the load sensing valve it is just a standard prop valve. The Wilwood has the best flow for quicker pedal response. Also, you can adjust the bias based on future mods like larger tires or heavy bumpers. And in regards to frequent adjustement, it’s not different than the ZJ valve. Once you get it setup you leave it alone. The advantage is the initial adjustability to tailor it to your rig.

I also really like this idea. It’s hard to dig through parts and find what your looking for especially when the titles aren’t descriptive. @Pete M What about auto-archiving the threads after a certain period of time with no activity? That way either the seller needs to “bump” the thread to keep it alive or eventually it just goes away and only relevant posts remain

I used some pipe sealant gel and it gave me no problems but I could see how that fitting could bind up easily.

I’ve never had a set but a local shop had just bought a new setup that gave a kind of “hex” crimp. Not very nice crimp compared to the typical AC shop mandrel hydraulic crimpers. It does the trick and doesn’t leek but doesn’t look clean like a factory crimp.

The ZJ prop valve is ok for a ZJ which has better weight distribution than our trucks. It does work well but to really dial things in get the Wilwood or similar. Just my $.02