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I’ve been considering the corbeau RRS seats. I used to run Baja car seats in my YJ but I think they’re too big for the MJ cab. Comfortable though!

Not a bad price at all for custom length cables. Nice!

Coming along with the new bed liner. It’s a ton of work to put this stuff in right but I’m liking how it’s turning out so far.

Exactly, which is why I don’t open my valve all the way up. I will open it up just a bit more with a load in the back. But u adjusted it and tested it thoroughly on loose road conditions to get the best input for where the valve needed to be to provide the right bias. If we remove any brake bias as @Jeep Driver suggests the backs WILL lock before the front especially on wet roads, ice, gravel and any other loose surface or with no load. The ZJ prop valve is pretty close to a zero bias but the vehicle weight dynamics are far different and as was mentioned, there is already some bias built into the brakes themselves based on piston sizes and pad to rotor contact surface area.

I’ve got a JCR bumper on the back. Unless you’ve got a whole lot more weight back there, the only bias you have is the difference in piston sizes and brake pad/rotor swept area between front and rear. Eliminating the prop valve is not a good idea on a truck with functioning brakes in back. The small ports on the dist block are poorly machined (they are on most oem dist blocks). Regarding pressure, larger diameter distributes that pressure better. In addition, moving to a larger MC bore to compensate for larger caliper piston surface area will move more volume of fluid. It will take longer to push that increased volume through the stock dist block. Granted, this would only apply to brake upgrades involving a larger MC. But yes ultimately the pressure will be the same. Pedal response may be a bit sluggish though.

I’d scrap the stock block. The machines ports are well under 3/16 line size and aren’t machines well. As for locking up tires, with my Wilwood prop valve all the way open for the rear I can lock my 33’s well before my fronts without any load in the bed. I’m running ZJ disks

Never mind, I just referenced Wilwood’s specs and they say it is a dynamic pressure reducer so yes it should work as a prop valve. The 3/8-24 is the one that I’d want. I’m guessing the 1/8npt could work for other applications or perhaps an hose fittings.

Well the model you are referencing isn’t a proportioning valve. It’s a fixed pressure valve. So if your trying to have the back brakes receive let’s say 25% less pressure, at 1000 psi then you can set it to 750 psi but it will be set to a static 750 psi. Meaning your brakes will be a 50/50 pressure split up to 750 psi and then the back ones will be capped at 75 while the line press increases. That husband n example but in real world application it means your back brakes will still be much more likely to lock up under light braking with an unloaded bed. Hope that makes sense

This one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179 you can also use the wilwood bracket which comes in either a left or right hand bracket configuration. That’s what I run and it works great. I think my build thread has the pics

Which corbeau seats did you end up installing?

And here is that trouble tail light that the body shop shot way too heavy a coat of clear on. I think I must have spent 10 or so hours restoring it but it came out like new. Dremel, acetone, razor blade, sandpaper and polish. Shot 8 thin coats of clear and burned them in a bit with some reducer.

And here was a few hours worth of progress today. The wind was about 15mph lol. Not my favorite painting conditions. Oh how I would love a shop/garage/barn/carport/tent

Here is the link: https://cart.bilsteinus.com/Portals/0/PDF/BILSTEINORCatalog2020_WEB.pdf And here is the current 5125 series chart:

The bilstein catalog is all online. Look for 5125 shocks. That is the entry level monotobe universal shocks. Valving and lengths are all listed. @Pete M perhaps we could dig up that catalog and sticky it in the mods section for reference as this question gets asked a lot it seems

I prefer to use electrical contact cleaner and then run a strong magnet near the contacts while it’s all wet with cleaner. That picks out any metal shards or filings that may have found their way into the connections.

Agreed. If the pitting isn’t too bad on the body it’s simple enough to just flap disk it down and use some super acid etching primer.

The following is my general experience with strokers over the last 9 years. I am by no means the expert here but have been down the rabbit hole on a few of these stroker builds: stay away from 505 performance. Hesco is also quite overpriced and isn’t in the game much anymore. Clifford performance is not the company it used to be. Also stick with efi if at all possible. Bolt on efi is so simple anymore there is just no reason for a carb. Long (4.0) rod strokers have better rod angles but will require pistons with a specific pin height. Keep your quench tight (.040) or there about is good. The 4.2 crank from 87-90 YJ’s is a bolt in with no snout machining. The skat crank is also a very nice setup and is bolt in. The 12 counterweight crank is not an upgrade for a stroker and will simply have more inertia to overcome. Crank scrapers and windage trays are nice but only really shine at higher revs or extreme angles. Also worth considering the 4.2 “mini” stroker with a 232 crank and 4.0 rods. It’s a nice “jeepspeed” style engine build. Recomended brands: King or clevite bearings, hylift johnson lifters, cometic head gaskets, Mopar purple cams or another cam with stock lobe width, cloyes timing sets, felpro permadry gaskets, totally stainless engine fastener kits, remflex manifold gaskets, arp head rod and main bolts, Gibson or AFE headers, strokedjeep throttle bodies, Edelbrock aluminum heads, brass freeze plugs. As always, Russ Pottenger is the man for strokers. His info is on the Jeep strokers site. His prices are great and to my knowledge, his head machining work outflows any other head out there. He also builds complete strokers that are absolutely top notch. He can supply kits with pistons, cam, springs, crank and whatever you need.

So are you building a 2.5 stroker or a 4.0 based stroker?

That’s a little beyond saving lol. But if some part of it is straight maybe cutout that panel for another gate.

There are about 20 spot welds on the upper inner seam and another 3 obvious spot welds on the lower pinch seam. I used a cut off wheel to remove the upper seam spot welds and a nice drill bit to cut out the spot welds on the pinch seam. Nothing on the sides and there isn’t really any adhesive. Just some seam sealer that prevents the panels from rattling

I hate anything in my truck that doesn’t work as it should. As far a the necessity of a light... that’s a question for amc lol

Brush on seam sealer is normally what you want to use for a factory level repair. After the seam sealer then POR15 or DOM16 (the equivalent we have over here lol). Also heard good things about lizard skin. It’s available in Summit

Is this a battery cable kit your trying to install?

I know painless carries the actual fuse block with the bulkhead connector on it also. I I stalled their YJ kit and it had the same connector as 91+ XJ/YJ/MJ

Is the connector also there on an auto tranny harness?