ghetdjc320

Just a slight info adjustment here: 84-89 knuckles are the old style and 90+ are the new style. The old style used a bolt on caliper that housed the brake pads. The newer styles have a floating caliper design with cast in brake pad “wings”. It is this design that doesn’t allow for big brake setups on the newer style knuckles without serious mods. Wilwood makes a bolt on big brake kit for the pre-90 knuckles but you can also home brew one with parts store components.

I believe that fuse block is still available new. Try contacting Painless wiring if you need a new one.

I like the idea here. I recently added a compressor and am installing lockers. It would be really neat to have the labels be custom. But I know how much extra effort it takes to make a one-off piece. If your interested in making them and could do a custom layout I’d be game for one.

That GMB high flow actually cooled better than anything I’d used before and I ran it for about 5 years with zero issues. The flowkooler just moved water too fast for a stock radiator setup.

Ive been curious about that also. Haven’t seen a new Mopar unit but probably worth a shot. Is the 4.0 part number still available new from Mopar?

I currently run a truetrac rear and have an arb going on the front. But I’ve had air lockers front and rear, truetracs front and rear and an Aussie front with open rear. The lunchbox was terrible in snow or ice but fun everywhere else. The truetracs were very good overall and keep you out of trouble but you will still see a tire spin. The selectables were the best overall. If I drove snow or ice frequently I’d be inclined toward the truetracs front and rear. For anything else I’d go selectable. The Aussie torq locker for the D30 is a nice lunchbox setup though.

$149 at Hesco. This is an airtex e2000 pump. $55 all day long. and you have to ask yourself: when did Hesco get the factory to start manufacturing fuel pumps? $122 at Hesco. $44.79 on rock auto. They’ve been doing this for years and they thrive off of unsuspecting Jeepers. Apologies to the OP... I’m done now

They are the same. I’ve ordered both. The flowkooler does not have a stamped steel plate spot welded to the impeller. It has a billet unit. Hesco has been rebranding these things for years along with a LOT of other parts. They made huge markups selling “custom” parts that were really just of the shelf items that they found out fit the 4.0. Their valvetrain products, electronics, sensors, water pumps etc are mostly just rebranded parts. They’ve been doing this at least since 2012. I should make a list of all the stuff I’ve bought from them that was “custom”. Here are a few examples: “Hesco” high volume oil pump: Melling part number on box. “Hesco” timing chain: Cloyes part number. “Hesco” vss to run a cable speedo and have an electric signal for the ecu: standard parts 91 YJ VSS (huge markup here). “Hesco” high volume water pump: flowkooler. Not saying they don’t machine any parts anymore but very few it would seem. The high flow thermostat housing is just an off the shelf crown unit with a 1” sanding drum run over the choke point at a 45*. Nothing “custom machined” about it.

The Hesco is a flowkooler with a huge markup as are most Hesco products. Unless you have significantly increased radiator capacity, stick with a stock flow pump. I’ve been down this road, the high flow thermostat housing is also a gimmick on a standard 4.0. You don’t want the coolant flowing so fast through the radiator that it fails to properly cool. The biggest difference is to get the thickest radiator core you can stuff in there. The Novak would be at the top of the list followed by maybe the mishimoto and cold case. Csf tends to have small cores. The stock system is fairly well balanced but If you radiator capacity is significantly higher than stock then a higher flow water pump works well. Also consider the GMB high flow pump. It doesn’t have a billet impeller but does flow higher than stick. Kind of falls in between the stock and flowkooler setup.

Here is the link: https://teamcherokee.com/hood-striker-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-comanche-1987-2001/ look in the “related parts” section and you’ll find everything else you need.

All the parts for the hood latch can be found on teamcherokee.com They had all the oem parts as of last week.

Sounds a bit like a loose flywheel bolt to me. You’ll likely see some metal flake in the tranny oil by the way. Never opened a manual tranny that didn’t have a bit of flake in it from the synchros. Most people just can’t drive stick plus those synchros are wear items. So no need to suspect a major problem from metal dust unless you see actual fragments in the oil or a truly excessive amount of metal dust.

I’m running 6.4 seconds on my built engine with 4.56 gears. This was on my gps speedo app. For wheeling I’m not a fan of the 8.8. Its a decent axle for a mild street build though. I’ve dropped some coin on the d35 and am super happy with the clearance and strength so far. The disk kits for the 35 also fit the 8.25. Maybe a few years down the road, I’d like to build a 2wd mj street truck.

This is getting old guys. Our trucks are rare and desirable to the right buyer. Should be worth plenty depending on condition, location, mods, etc. The opinions on value are pretty pointless. The market will determine everything. If you want to sell your truck cheap or expensive that’s entirely up to the seller. Everyone wants to make a buck so let’s not be too critical

Depends what you want to build. If your planning on building a rig like this then it’s well worth it. If your trying to build an all original truck then it’s probably not the best place to start. Initial investment is peanuts compared to what it will cost long term.

I had the same issues. You’ll need to get those areas repaired for sure. You may be able to get away with the notch flares but lots of body work will still be involved

Well I guess your looking for all the seals. For the door seals either go Mopar or get a set of 97+ XJ seals. The later models have a far superior seal. Aftermarket seals have generally very loose quality fit. The ones I had did not have the holes in the weatherstripping to release the air when the door closes. The pinch seam trim was also too thick and trim wouldn’t fit correctly. Picked up some oem seals and it’s night and day difference.

I’d grab a set of perches and u bolts from ruff stuff off-road if going soa. Bolt on soa is a bit sketchy imho.

Are you referring to the glass seals in the door or the door to cab weatherstripping?

Well I guess they do leave a small gap. Funny I never really noticed that until now.

The top doesn’t get trimmed hardly at all. The front and back openings get trimmed a bit but the cut doesn’t go past the spot welds in the pinch seam. Maybe 1/2” max. The opening is made bigger primarily because of the flare design not shrouding the wheel well so much. Notch fenders are another option but require more body work to make them look good. Imho they look much better if properly installed. The Napiers do reach all the way down.

It doesn’t exist. Only the XJ front components.

I considered using one of those also but didn’t want any panels covered. Should work just fine though.

You could also work with one of the floating display head units. I was going to go that route but decided it was just a bit too modern of a look for my old truck.