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I think @Minuit started it this time. I remember your first posts and saying that you had no license and never worked on cars but wanted to tackle this punch list of mods yourself, stroker, lift etc. I think this thread has pointed out the reasons for our different responses (age). My comments were like, get a license and learn how to get a screw out first and others have been like “son, I’ll take you through this step by step and together we’ll build the MJ of your dreams”. But then we all find out that you not actually starting any of these projects... Plus the literally endless threads that go nowhere. So yeah, I try to keep my comments informative but also want to give you a realistic view of what to expect. Not everyone likes that though. Some just want to dream on and that’s ok too. But I’m not going to sugar coat and gift wrap everything if that makes sense. Just trying to be a straight shooter here so appologies if any comments have been harsh. I will always try to be helpful once a thought leaves the theoretical stage .

Pretty much same story for me

Wonder who your talking about

or a hydroboost!

This is true. 90% of the time a larger MC is not needed especially for stock brakes. The ratio from MC bore to Caliper piston size is the basis for hydraulic leverage. However, there is a volume equation in all of this that seems like it’s being forgotten. Not to mention, the booster capabilities. If you run a hydroboost setup there is just no reason to run under a 1” bore with stock brakes. The booster is far more effective at providing assistance so why not up the volume for improved pedal response. This applies equally to vacuum booster setups while running significantly larger caliper sizes. In essence, everything needs to be balanced. The built in brake bias due to caliper sizes is based on a vehicle with a specific weight distribution. Our trucks for the most parts just don’t fit the bill unless they have a fair amount of cargo weight to equal it out.

That’s a bummer! A write up would be awesome though. Especially as things start to warm up stateside

It’s some stuff called Hippo Linner from dominion sure seal. I love this stuff. UV stable, great adhesion, no rubber crumb and a great finish. It’s tintable and is pretty much the same product as Monsta Liner. Takes 72hrs to fully cure.

What about your stock axle? Dana 35 is fine with 31’s

Wouldn’t door lock linkage retainers work also? They’re all over the place online and come in metal or plastic

For the bedliner?

Awesome. What was the missing cable/ground you needed?

I’ve been very impressed with how long those bilstein 5100 series last! Probably also helps a bit that I’ve been running them body up to keep debris away from the bores.

Yep, or the factor 55 winch lock bolts

it may take them a while to get that screw out . I couldn’t help it lol. But yeah, a tamper resistant fastener would be golden there

No worries. I have a 2001 booster and MC in my 91.

Well if you end up getting the set for your truck I’ll take the 91+ ones.

I’ve been considering the corbeau RRS seats. I used to run Baja car seats in my YJ but I think they’re too big for the MJ cab. Comfortable though!

Not a bad price at all for custom length cables. Nice!

Coming along with the new bed liner. It’s a ton of work to put this stuff in right but I’m liking how it’s turning out so far.

Exactly, which is why I don’t open my valve all the way up. I will open it up just a bit more with a load in the back. But u adjusted it and tested it thoroughly on loose road conditions to get the best input for where the valve needed to be to provide the right bias. If we remove any brake bias as @Jeep Driver suggests the backs WILL lock before the front especially on wet roads, ice, gravel and any other loose surface or with no load. The ZJ prop valve is pretty close to a zero bias but the vehicle weight dynamics are far different and as was mentioned, there is already some bias built into the brakes themselves based on piston sizes and pad to rotor contact surface area.

I’ve got a JCR bumper on the back. Unless you’ve got a whole lot more weight back there, the only bias you have is the difference in piston sizes and brake pad/rotor swept area between front and rear. Eliminating the prop valve is not a good idea on a truck with functioning brakes in back. The small ports on the dist block are poorly machined (they are on most oem dist blocks). Regarding pressure, larger diameter distributes that pressure better. In addition, moving to a larger MC bore to compensate for larger caliper piston surface area will move more volume of fluid. It will take longer to push that increased volume through the stock dist block. Granted, this would only apply to brake upgrades involving a larger MC. But yes ultimately the pressure will be the same. Pedal response may be a bit sluggish though.

I’d scrap the stock block. The machines ports are well under 3/16 line size and aren’t machines well. As for locking up tires, with my Wilwood prop valve all the way open for the rear I can lock my 33’s well before my fronts without any load in the bed. I’m running ZJ disks

Never mind, I just referenced Wilwood’s specs and they say it is a dynamic pressure reducer so yes it should work as a prop valve. The 3/8-24 is the one that I’d want. I’m guessing the 1/8npt could work for other applications or perhaps an hose fittings.

Well the model you are referencing isn’t a proportioning valve. It’s a fixed pressure valve. So if your trying to have the back brakes receive let’s say 25% less pressure, at 1000 psi then you can set it to 750 psi but it will be set to a static 750 psi. Meaning your brakes will be a 50/50 pressure split up to 750 psi and then the back ones will be capped at 75 while the line press increases. That husband n example but in real world application it means your back brakes will still be much more likely to lock up under light braking with an unloaded bed. Hope that makes sense

This one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179 you can also use the wilwood bracket which comes in either a left or right hand bracket configuration. That’s what I run and it works great. I think my build thread has the pics