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Just incase that video doesn’t play for you, I had my wife turn the steering while parked each direction to full lock and the track bar mount slides about 1/4” against the frame rail.

Holy cow, not good. FullSizeRender.mov

Has anyone found a good track bar and bracket setup they like that’s stronger than the oem setup? Was about to pull the trigger on a Currie track bar but I noticed my track bar mount definitely has some movement that I’d like to get rid of. Would also prefer a double sheer design to hold the track bar instead of putting all that load on one portion of the bolt at the frame side mount. I am keeping the stock track bar axle side mount since it’s a full artec bracket setup. Running Currie steering linkage. Approx 5” lift

Who are you quoting? Edit: never mind I see it’s @Jesse J. Looked like my comment for a minute. Freaked me out lol

Lifted 2wd trucks aren’t for rock crawling. More along the lines of a jeepspeed build. Those are quite cool. After 4wd the next best thing for crawling is a short bed.

Congrats on your longest post ever

I have an extra 91 clock I’m saving for parts. I really like the fade-on display setup. More exciting stuff to come

Funny, but these pics have me thinking about just how few MJ’s are left in drivable or even restorable conditions. That and I’ve been eying some Corbeaus.

Next up will be the 120mph police package speedo swap!

Then I spent about 2 hours meticulously wet sanding and polishing the gauge plastic overlay. It’s super clear now. Can’t even tel it’s on

Installed new 91 correct dash clock that I polished a cleaned up bit by bit. I really like how the clock turns on.

The market varies greatly and we’ve discussed that on a few build so far. I was offered 18k for mine but declined. It’s fairly modded as well. I took it off the market and decided to keep it but another couple of weeks may have netted 20k. And just to note, I have way over 20k into it. The market as a whole hasn’t really nailed down MJ prices. Many pick up there trucks dirt cheap and others are willing to pay. When I was trying to find a nice MJ about 5 or so years ago, most the ones I liked were in the 10-13k range. Ultimately it all comes down to finding the right buyer.

That’s a really neat top!

Been truing up and adjusting the ride plate. Just finished with some epoxy paint.

Stainless still rusts. It would need to be at least 316 stainless and would need to be a c channel design so it doesn’t trap any water. Thousands and thousands for no real gain

Bring on page 8. I just don’t see how we can go from removing a screw to a stroker build and axle swaps. Master the basics of mechanics first. Not to be harsh but clearly it would not be advisable to move straight from a stuck screw to an axle swap, engine build, suspension mod etc.

I absolutely love the brutes. Also seen some nice LJ truck conversions done with the gr8tops setup. Tailgate conversion and a bit of reworking of the new bed area and that’s one sweet rig. I’d absolutely love to build one and throw in a nice little diesel. Dream build there... The crown OPDA is an easy swap out and has the lubrication passage upgrade for that upper bushing. Those oem units will start to tick when they’re on their way out.

Jerry Bradsford pretty much runs that forum anymore. Chris (site admin) just follows his lead it seems. A lot of the real experts in the TJ field left over the past few years. Actually a lot of them just stopped posting on forums at all. I still see them on JeepForum and Pirate occasionally.

LJ’s are nice candidates for Brute style conversions also. I’d recommend you stay away from the 05 6 speed. So many TSB’s for that tranny, had one in my 05 Rubicon and that was such a pain to get fixed. Also, the small channels on the bottom of the body is where mine started trying to rust. The frame never had any problems though.

I had Safelite do my windshield swap a few years back and they swapped in the 97+ XJ windshield and trim in. Turned out great and was like $250 installed.

Are any of the lines to the power steering pinched? Is the power steering pump starting to make a whining noise? There is a high pressure feed and a low pressure return side to the power steering system. Very straight forward plumbing. The pumps start to whine when they are going out or get too low on fluid but check it either way. If you happen to be very low on fluid make sure to bleed the air out of the system by removing the tie rod end from the steering gear pitman arm and turning your steering wheel slowly from lock to lock at least 20-30 times slowly. Let it sit overnight and repeat that process and it should be well bled of any trapped air.

Just saw this. Wow that’s a great tie in spot! Very clean

Keep in mind that with salt water I actually have seen aluminum rust though. It’s crazy, I never thought it would do that. Being here I’ve learned of the various grades of stainless steel and the different processes for keeping things from rusting. Galvanic corrosion is also crazy. Stainless bolts in aluminum etc. If I could have a whole aluminum frame made and then have it anodized with a specific color that’s probably the only thing that would last semi-permanently. Epoxy paint holds up fairly well too I’ve noticed.

Give it a shot. Post a video if you can’t get it to work so we can see how your going about it.

I’m guessing you couldn’t get them to work because the screw head is angled down to close to the pillar? Long thin metal object should work to tap it into position.