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There are two rivets that hold the whole unit together. One is a large one in the center that the pedal and teeth pivot on. The other is what the “pawl” pivots on. The lower one is normally a bit loose and gets blamed a lot for a the brake popping loose but the upper one is the real key. It sandwiches the gear plate and keeps it aligned with the pawl. If you have a dremel, press and some patience you can get the catch mechanism working right again. Also, replace the pawl spring with something much stronger. It needs to be 1” long overall or slightly shorter and have a hook on each end. I’ve been collecting these units for a few months now to start rebuilding and selling them in a core exchange basis. It’s a bit on the back burner but I could probably whip one up for you in about a week or so and you can send me your old unit as a core. Was originally planning on doing these after the hvac panels but work is starting to dry up a bit so I may have some time for both.

Just thought I’d post up some mod ideas for the dash. Here is what I’ve done so far. Double din CarPlay receiver 120mph police pkg speedo (will eventually do custom gauge faces to match to other gauges) cigarette lighter area converted to switch pod for lockers with oem switches. I’ll make a custom switch panel for the tranny and compressor or I may delete the tranny comfort switch and just wire it up for power all the time. Then I would do rock lights and compressor. The nice thing is that all the symbols and switches are completely oem looking with flow through and all. Very happy with how this turned out.

On the stock booster you don’t want anything larger than 15/16. Dual diaphragm can go to 1” but anything larger will be problematic. Hydroboost could probably get away with 1.125 but 1” would still be superior with stock brakes including ZJ or Explorer rears. Only time you’d go bigger is if the caliper piston surface area increases by a lot

ARB for 30 spline d35 rear is on back order but should be in stock in about 3 weeks.

Thanks for all the input guys. I reached out to truck covers USA. Planning on going with the same style cover as @Limeyjeeper. I’ll order the one with the toolbox also. Should be a sweet setup. Just need to make sure I have enough room for my hylift jack to be mounted over the passenger wheel well. Shouldn’t be a problem

Tried searching for the link but didn’t see one. @Limeyjeeper could you post up what you used? Reason for a folding one is that I need a hard shell and don’t want a one piece for cargo reasons.

Anyone know of a good option?

Been researching what kind of tonneau cover I can get for my truck. Would like a trifold cover and have been looking at the extang models: https://extang.com I know most go with the Downey products one or something for an early 90’s ranger. Only reference I’ve seen is in this thread where @Jeepman says he used one from a Chevy Colorado:

Hey Pete, just wondering if you’ve been able to ship these out yet or not. Thanks!

Is the only thing your looking to accomplish the 4x4 swap? Personally I’d just source those parts. It’s just the axle, tcase, driveshaft and transmission. Otherwise, a 97-99 xj has a lot to offer swap wise beyond just the 4x4.

Do they ship in pairs or was it $79/ea side?

Yes. The ZJ valve is not adjustable and if you delete the load sensing valve it is just a standard prop valve. The Wilwood has the best flow for quicker pedal response. Also, you can adjust the bias based on future mods like larger tires or heavy bumpers. And in regards to frequent adjustement, it’s not different than the ZJ valve. Once you get it setup you leave it alone. The advantage is the initial adjustability to tailor it to your rig.

I also really like this idea. It’s hard to dig through parts and find what your looking for especially when the titles aren’t descriptive. @Pete M What about auto-archiving the threads after a certain period of time with no activity? That way either the seller needs to “bump” the thread to keep it alive or eventually it just goes away and only relevant posts remain

I used some pipe sealant gel and it gave me no problems but I could see how that fitting could bind up easily.

I’ve never had a set but a local shop had just bought a new setup that gave a kind of “hex” crimp. Not very nice crimp compared to the typical AC shop mandrel hydraulic crimpers. It does the trick and doesn’t leek but doesn’t look clean like a factory crimp.

The ZJ prop valve is ok for a ZJ which has better weight distribution than our trucks. It does work well but to really dial things in get the Wilwood or similar. Just my $.02

The Mishimoto dropped right in for me. I researched the subject extensively and it basically came down to the actual thickness of the cores. I had an all aluminum csf radiator and it had (2) 5/8” cores for a 1.25 overall thickness. The novak is the thickest and the mishimoto falls somewhere in between. The Mishimoto warranty is what did it for me. The novak is probably one of if not the best one out there but I haven’t had the best results with Novak’s customer support. I’d still run their radiator though if I wanted the best

Money sent. Had to have one

True

Yeah that does happen sometimes. All depends on how well adjusted and what kind of shape the original drums were in. The stopping power of drums is typically better than disks given the show to drum surface area. But disks definitely are superior for maintenance, adjustment and overall performance (cooling, self-cleaning etc.)

Will it also do 37* flares in larger tubing? Been looking at something that could flare stainless fuel lines to install AN fittings.

It’s a bit of work to swap them in with the linkage and brake light setup on the pre-91’s so make sure the booster is in good working order.

This was all hand bent using the SURR tubing.

That’s a great list. I picked up the SURR kit from summit which includes a nice variety of fittings and the line is made in the US and is some of quality stuff.

This info may be helpful: