ghetdjc320

Your word count has got to be close to the highest out there lol. I enjoy your essays though. Very methodical and informative

And into the audio side. @Minuit, I know you’ve been curious what I am planning on doing. Honestly I’ve been pretty curious myself. So many challenges in car audio vs integrated home or commercial audio. A few goals I’m trying to stick with: 1. Keep as much cargo space as possible behind the seat (if I get a good bed cover I may nix this idea but for now I need covered space). 2. Keep it clean and away from the eyes of thieves. With these goals in mind, the stock speaker layout does keep cargo space and a clean look but the location of the B pillar 4x6 speakers is marginal at best. High frequencies will be muffled by the seats and cargo behind them. Ideally I would match front and rear speaker sizes and keep them timbre matched. My Sony head unit does a decent job of powering some high sensitivity speakers and I’m not looking to win a DB contest. Also, quieting down the truck is a top goal but this isn’t a Mercedes and there is only so far I can go. So getting some high end of Focals or Morrels in there will be a bit of a waste since any road noise will make it difficult to discern the sound quality difference. I’m a bit picky about symmetry and keeping all components branded the same but really, the only things that matters is the quality of each individual component and that the midrange and tweeters be timbre matched. That being said, I’m considering two courses: 1. Simply adding a decent low profile powered sub and keeping all stock speaker locations. This would give me the most cargo room and be cost effective. 2. Custom building the back panel and adding in the speaker config I am looking for (4) 5.25-6.5 components and (2) 8-10” subs

On another note, just ordered up new ball joints, artec gussets for the inner C’s, Gibson ceramic coated header and a whole wire braiding kit to get the under hood detailed and organized. Also ordered an arb OBA kit I’m looking forward to installing.

The only option I have here is Rhino liner or Hippo Liner from dominion sure seal. Since the rhino liner is done by a shop I’m going with the dominion sure seal and will roll it on (after some good prep lol). The dominion sure seal is some very good stuff. Never saw it much stateside but it’s a Canadian company and is very similar to Monstaliner. No rubber crumb in it either. I was able to remove all the liner except for the bed caps. Still debating what to do with those but will probably remove them and do it right.

It’s called web wheeling lol and it happens when we spend more time thinking about projects than actually working on them. You’re in almost every thread with a 2 bit comment like “that’s cool”, “good idea” or ““. Nothing wrong with that but it makes for a bunch of posts with little content.

“Pete has organized the site well, so knowledge and experience here are relatively easy to find before you toss out a basic or very common inquiry.”

Oooh, that would be mine if I was there.

They never prepped the surface at all. Just a mess. No cleanup no prep just mask and spray. I don’t think I’m letting any shop touch my truck ever lol

Well before I go that route I have to take care of this:

“Jeeppeed”

So the build direction is going towards a “sleeper” setup lol. Debating whether to up the power while staying NA or going FI. I’m running an estimated 240-250hp right now. Also been eyeing a custom paddle shifter setup. I’d like to give any new truck a run for their money I suppose. It’s always tricky to integrate new tech while paying homage to the original. Fuel management becomes quite an ordeal also. If I stay NA I’ll keep it on the stock sbec fuel system. If I go FI I’m not to keen on the piggy back controllers so I’d much prefer to go stand alone.

Simple right? And no one actually suggested that lol

Here are the other ones I’m considering: https://ironman4x4fab.com/products/xj-track-bar-system https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-adjustable-front-trackbar-w-bracket-1984-2001-xj-zj whichever one I get I want to definitely tie in the passenger side frame rail.

Awesome, that was one I was looking at also. Did your have the cross brace with it?

I tried shrinking the video as much as possible but I just can’t get it under the 39mb upload limit.

Maybe it’s just me but I hat the look of the dirtbound off-road flares. If they just extended all the way down they would look better. But they stop short and make it look odd

Just incase that video doesn’t play for you, I had my wife turn the steering while parked each direction to full lock and the track bar mount slides about 1/4” against the frame rail.

Holy cow, not good. FullSizeRender.mov

Has anyone found a good track bar and bracket setup they like that’s stronger than the oem setup? Was about to pull the trigger on a Currie track bar but I noticed my track bar mount definitely has some movement that I’d like to get rid of. Would also prefer a double sheer design to hold the track bar instead of putting all that load on one portion of the bolt at the frame side mount. I am keeping the stock track bar axle side mount since it’s a full artec bracket setup. Running Currie steering linkage. Approx 5” lift

Who are you quoting? Edit: never mind I see it’s @Jesse J. Looked like my comment for a minute. Freaked me out lol

Lifted 2wd trucks aren’t for rock crawling. More along the lines of a jeepspeed build. Those are quite cool. After 4wd the next best thing for crawling is a short bed.

Congrats on your longest post ever

I have an extra 91 clock I’m saving for parts. I really like the fade-on display setup. More exciting stuff to come

Funny, but these pics have me thinking about just how few MJ’s are left in drivable or even restorable conditions. That and I’ve been eying some Corbeaus.

Next up will be the 120mph police package speedo swap!