ghetdjc320

Are any of the lines to the power steering pinched? Is the power steering pump starting to make a whining noise? There is a high pressure feed and a low pressure return side to the power steering system. Very straight forward plumbing. The pumps start to whine when they are going out or get too low on fluid but check it either way. If you happen to be very low on fluid make sure to bleed the air out of the system by removing the tie rod end from the steering gear pitman arm and turning your steering wheel slowly from lock to lock at least 20-30 times slowly. Let it sit overnight and repeat that process and it should be well bled of any trapped air.

Just saw this. Wow that’s a great tie in spot! Very clean

Keep in mind that with salt water I actually have seen aluminum rust though. It’s crazy, I never thought it would do that. Being here I’ve learned of the various grades of stainless steel and the different processes for keeping things from rusting. Galvanic corrosion is also crazy. Stainless bolts in aluminum etc. If I could have a whole aluminum frame made and then have it anodized with a specific color that’s probably the only thing that would last semi-permanently. Epoxy paint holds up fairly well too I’ve noticed.

Give it a shot. Post a video if you can’t get it to work so we can see how your going about it.

I’m guessing you couldn’t get them to work because the screw head is angled down to close to the pillar? Long thin metal object should work to tap it into position.

Doesn’t stick well to galvanized steel plus it’s tough to repair. It will still just rust underneath the liner. Gold galvanizing compound is what I use for touch ups and it really does hold up to the salt very well. But yeah, it would be cool if it matched. Maybe a matching tool box for it.

Ok, in all seriousness. Get a hammer and chisel or something equivalent and tap the screw so it is angled up then get a good #2 Phillips screw driver on it and turn is counterclockwise. If the screw head drops down again just tap it back up. Needle nose vice grips would also have it out in a few seconds (not by yanking it out but by turning it out). This thread will never die as long as that screw persists so let’s put it out of its misery.

That would be cool but I can’t do much paint wise with a trailer that is metal and get submerged in salt water. Rust is such a constant battle

That will involve more screws lol

Few more mods done today. getting ready for a new pump and skat impeller next.

From what the original poster sent us it looks like a fairly straightforward process to get it back down to 5.5”. Going lower than that could get pricey and involve a lot of work. Nix the shackles and spacers and see what that nets

Audio system added, complete upgraded fuel system. Deatshwerks STI pump, Russel fuel check valve, and fuel lab adjustable FPR. Just got a set of injectors back from the rebuilders also and had them all flow matched and rebuilt. New skat track impeller and some pump mods happening next.

And the mods continue

Also those away bar links are crazy long lol

So, from the pics, swapping the long shackles there to stick shackles should lower you back down to about 5.5” in the rear. Removing the front coil spacers should bring it down another 2 or so inches. Those shocks are almost maxed out! Your also missing the rear bump stops over the axle. Going lower will actually require more work. If you can settle on about a 5.5” lift you can simply modify what you have there

That’s what I run and it’s a great quality replacement. Better design than the original.

Let’s save that subject for another 100+ post thread. But by the time he masters the #10 I’d say it’s time for the drivers license

Once that screw has been mastered anything will be easy. Setting up R&P, building a stroker, swapping axles converting to front leafs, supercharging and eventually,,, driving it down the road. Nothing will be hard once you master the #6 pan head Phillips.

I think this is what happens when we all try to “help” . It doesn’t hurt to tell someone to search for the info occasionally. A simple “how to remove screws in a tight space” search would have been golden.

I’m definitely in it just for kicks

Yep that’s a bit of a drive lol. Otherwise I’d be happy to!

I think the last time we had a “Hot Topic” thread a few weeks ago it got deleted for oh so many reasons.

The straight 6 is a great design on paper. An overhead cam and cross flow head design would really make quite a difference in what we could do with one. Direct injection, coil on plug and a good tuneable efi system could really get things going in a NA engine.

I can only image what kind of a thread there will be for an axle swap or stroker build. They have a lot of screws