ghetdjc320

That’s a great deal! There may be some big screws your going to have to replace. Lol, just messing with you @Jesse J

With much effort yes. You’ll need all new brackets and wheels. Lots of suspension fab work and welding. Plus not all Wagoneers have the drivers drop 44 that is not a disconnect axle. The rear 98+ rodeo/passport axle is stronger than the wagoneer rear though.

Was there coolant in the oil (was it milky looking)?

I’ll check mine in a bit

The scoring on the journal doesn’t look bad but it’s always very hard to tell from pictures. Not to much work to pull the crank though at this point. Definitely recommend replacing the rear main anytime your that far into the engine and it has more than 100k or so on it.

We should either sticky it or delete it. Either would be done for posterity’s sake. Or maybe we could post this article in the DIY section: https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/toolmanship-how-to-use-a-screwdriver/

And the “hot topic” label

Yikes, tough working conditions! Try to get some longer spring perches for soa to prevent axle wrap. Especially if your springs are sagging

Like how to remove a Phillips screw...

The block side of the motor mounts do not fit the poly tube aftermarket ones without some grinding/persuasion

Very good tech from some who have been doing this from the start. You’ll see some familiar faces there too from CC

History will for sure remember this thread one way or another

Also, checkout the Jeepstrokers forum for some of these questions. There is a huge knowledge base specific to these engines and all of your questions have likely been answered there before.

It was a few years that they ran the 12cw. The snouts on all pre 87 cranks are too long and need to either be cut down or have a spacer added to the crank. Just because they are rare doesn’t mean they are better though. A new scat crank will perform very well indeed as will the 87-90 YJ 4.2 crank. Let us know when you actually start building one though. Otherwise this is just theoretical.

Hopefully we didn’t get too off topic for you @Chad

Probably because no one has ever asked lol

Just keep in mind, your going to find a lot more headache than an inaccesible screw with an axle swap. This is when the Jeep unleashes it’s wrath

The new motor mounts you purchased look like polyurethane mounts. The mounts is durable but it will transmit all the motor vibration to the truck much more than the stock ones. I just threw out some poly mounts like those in favor of a new oem Mopar set and am super happy with how smooth the truck is now. Those poly mounts would rattle your teeth at idle.

You know what, I think I do remember that piece. The transmission vents from the gear shift tower and I believe that metal piece is an oil splash guard to keep oil from slinging up into that vent in the shift tower. I believe it can be left off with no I’ll consequences.

What exhaust is that you have on the MJ? Seems like the opening is larger than oem but maybe it’s just the pic.

Do these also fit the 91-92?

I used one from Novak Adapt and a Wilwood MC with braided SS line. Worked great.

They also have a universal ax15 mount that can adapt to your crossmember with a little work.