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Which corbeau seats did you end up installing?

And here is that trouble tail light that the body shop shot way too heavy a coat of clear on. I think I must have spent 10 or so hours restoring it but it came out like new. Dremel, acetone, razor blade, sandpaper and polish. Shot 8 thin coats of clear and burned them in a bit with some reducer.

And here was a few hours worth of progress today. The wind was about 15mph lol. Not my favorite painting conditions. Oh how I would love a shop/garage/barn/carport/tent

Here is the link: https://cart.bilsteinus.com/Portals/0/PDF/BILSTEINORCatalog2020_WEB.pdf And here is the current 5125 series chart:

The bilstein catalog is all online. Look for 5125 shocks. That is the entry level monotobe universal shocks. Valving and lengths are all listed. @Pete M perhaps we could dig up that catalog and sticky it in the mods section for reference as this question gets asked a lot it seems

I prefer to use electrical contact cleaner and then run a strong magnet near the contacts while it’s all wet with cleaner. That picks out any metal shards or filings that may have found their way into the connections.

Agreed. If the pitting isn’t too bad on the body it’s simple enough to just flap disk it down and use some super acid etching primer.

The following is my general experience with strokers over the last 9 years. I am by no means the expert here but have been down the rabbit hole on a few of these stroker builds: stay away from 505 performance. Hesco is also quite overpriced and isn’t in the game much anymore. Clifford performance is not the company it used to be. Also stick with efi if at all possible. Bolt on efi is so simple anymore there is just no reason for a carb. Long (4.0) rod strokers have better rod angles but will require pistons with a specific pin height. Keep your quench tight (.040) or there about is good. The 4.2 crank from 87-90 YJ’s is a bolt in with no snout machining. The skat crank is also a very nice setup and is bolt in. The 12 counterweight crank is not an upgrade for a stroker and will simply have more inertia to overcome. Crank scrapers and windage trays are nice but only really shine at higher revs or extreme angles. Also worth considering the 4.2 “mini” stroker with a 232 crank and 4.0 rods. It’s a nice “jeepspeed” style engine build. Recomended brands: King or clevite bearings, hylift johnson lifters, cometic head gaskets, Mopar purple cams or another cam with stock lobe width, cloyes timing sets, felpro permadry gaskets, totally stainless engine fastener kits, remflex manifold gaskets, arp head rod and main bolts, Gibson or AFE headers, strokedjeep throttle bodies, Edelbrock aluminum heads, brass freeze plugs. As always, Russ Pottenger is the man for strokers. His info is on the Jeep strokers site. His prices are great and to my knowledge, his head machining work outflows any other head out there. He also builds complete strokers that are absolutely top notch. He can supply kits with pistons, cam, springs, crank and whatever you need.

So are you building a 2.5 stroker or a 4.0 based stroker?

That’s a little beyond saving lol. But if some part of it is straight maybe cutout that panel for another gate.

There are about 20 spot welds on the upper inner seam and another 3 obvious spot welds on the lower pinch seam. I used a cut off wheel to remove the upper seam spot welds and a nice drill bit to cut out the spot welds on the pinch seam. Nothing on the sides and there isn’t really any adhesive. Just some seam sealer that prevents the panels from rattling

I hate anything in my truck that doesn’t work as it should. As far a the necessity of a light... that’s a question for amc lol

Brush on seam sealer is normally what you want to use for a factory level repair. After the seam sealer then POR15 or DOM16 (the equivalent we have over here lol). Also heard good things about lizard skin. It’s available in Summit

Is this a battery cable kit your trying to install?

I know painless carries the actual fuse block with the bulkhead connector on it also. I I stalled their YJ kit and it had the same connector as 91+ XJ/YJ/MJ

Is the connector also there on an auto tranny harness?

If your referring to the idle air control valve, that’s a stepper motor and is not adjustable. It’s simply a way for the ecu to bump up the rpms as needed. No if the iacv is not seated properly or is not closing then that could be an issue. The set screw for the butterfly adjustment should normally never be touched. It does set minimum idle though.

Wonder if those are metal flares. If those are the bushwacker xj ones in the rear then that’s the cleanest install I’ve seen. Also interesting fuel door location. Wonder if the tank is in the spare tire location.

Is this more of a Renix issue? Never seen this on the HO’s.

Keep in mind that these were made on the cheap side AND had some advanced tech for the time. Makes for a weird combo that can be a pain to work on. For anything rust or body work related you can expect pinch seams, seam sealer, spot welds and somewhat poorly thought out designs when it comes to water retention. There are also many places where water leaks can form and is a constant battle for some. Mechanical issues aren’t normally too bad but can be a pain if your unfamiliar with efi troubleshooting. Many people take a shotgun approach when it comes to repairs and the bills can spiral out of control. All the above is just to get and keep the truck running and looking good not to say anything regarding modding. Whatever you plan on doing to your MJ plan on it costing at least double what you think it should.

When you mentioned you upgraded the intake, I’m assuming you did the 99+ intake which also would require the ps pump. What gasket did you use for the manifold to head? I’d double check for vacuum leaks around the gasket and make sure all your vacuum ports are connected or plugged. Did you use the new throttle body or your old 91 one?

I’m thinking I may just polish out the JEEP lettering and clear coat it. Either that or paint it in. Kind of tired of getting vinyl decals for those letters. Never been a big fan of stickers

Ok I’ll give it a go in a week or so. Just did about 90% of the body work on it today. Lots of unnecessary filler over the years. I don’t know what this black crap is on the inside of the bed and tailgate. Looks like it was brushed on and is the same stuff that was on the outside when I bought the truck. I’m thinking it may be por15 or similar. It sticks increasingly well and stripped will not bubble it up. On the body, I blasted it all off with soda.

Yep, I put most of the info on the thread in the mod section. I used ultra black rtv to keep the panels from vibrating and provide some adhesion. It’s always nice to know it’s back together right and won’t rust anytime soon. Pretty stoked to have a super straight tailgate too

Let me know if anyone needs a write up or more info on this