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Those particular rear disks need more pressure to equal the same braking force the stock drum brakes had (if they were in perfect working order and adjusted properly). The distribution block is a choke point for fluid flow for sure. The original prop valve may or may not let enough volume through. Either way, either replace the distribution block with a good prop valve and eliminate the load sensing valve or, if your load sensing valve can provide adequate flow, raise the linkage to provide more pressure to the rear disks than the drums would have had. You’ll have to play around with your braking bias to get it right. Regarding your master cylinder, with a single diaphragm booster you won’t want much more than a 7/8” bore. 15/16 is the max I’d recommend if everything else is perfect. Since you don’t have much assist to the pedal, you need all the hydraulic advantage you can get. Those calipers shouldn’t need any more volume. If you put a 1” or larger MC bore on your stock booster you will decrease overall braking performance. The better setup is to upgrade the booster and MC to a dual diaphragm setup and eliminate the distribution block and load sensing valve. Add a good Wilwood or similar proposal valve and adjust your braking bias. It’s a not too much work and will give you significantly better brakes with your existing setup. Assuming this is going in your 86 MJ, you will have some slight mods to do. Write ups on the swaps with both WJ and XJ boosters are a plenty.

Ok, so I just ordered the arb high output compressor which I’ll mount where the old air box was (running the thor cowl intake). Also got the transgo kit for the aw4 as well as a hilift extreme jack up mount just above the passenger wheel well in the bed (locked for sure). Also got some Russell ARB locker lines because those blue plastic lines don’t inspire any confidence.

Same here. Also wanting a set

I had a nice NOS handle but my dog decided it was a chew toy... the funny thing is, even after he chewed it all up it was still better than the original

Same here. Went with the Mishimoto and am never looking back. Mishimoto or Novak would be the two I’d go for. The novak has (2) 1.5” cores and is the absolute thickest I’ve seen aside from the original Griffin radiator which they don’t make anymore.

I can make a pretty mean dash switch setup for you also if you need it

It’s funny, it’s so easy to shop for parts and then I have a stack of stuff on my doorstep and I have an “oh crap” moment when I realize I have to install it all

Thanks for posting that. I hadn’t seen the MJ rockers yet. I wonder how their weatherstripping looks compared to oem. Fortunately I was able to get some NOS weatherstripping but the old aftermarket stuff was junk

Don’t know if they were standard but they were on my 91 eliminator also.

Just picked up a front ARB for my D30. Going to grab one for the rear too.

Mine was 3.5k in 2017. Ive since sunk about 30k into it. Jeeps...

You could also run the sd springs hd 5 leaf packs with a slightly longer shackle. Those springs lift a good 2.5-3”. Without the longer shackles I bet it will be pretty close to level

Good rule of thumb for sure. My dad was raised on a sheep farm in the Dakotas and thought me how to drive in the prairies and crossing the creeks. Never needed 4wd, he just showed me how to pick my lines and now my limits. I took him out to Moab with me in 2017 and we never needed 4wd. Just lots of articulation and clearance it seems. The “slick” rock had loads of traction when dry. I think that’s the last time he wanted to go wheeling though lol. He’s a few years older than you and was not up for any more “jarring” rides. Driving on ice though the million dollar highway from Durango to Riverton in a YJ with 35’s and Detroit’s was a white knuckle experience. I think that’s the last time I really went wheeling anywhere.

I’m just referring to it fitting on the knuckle. The correct caliper and rotor combo would be needed. It makes perfect sense though that for the old bolt on fixed position calipers (pre-90) they would need the rotor located at a specific depth to center it in the caliper. That would be accomplished through the unit bearing shoulder height. So that makes sense as you mentioned that the pre-90 brakes would lock up with a different unit bearing shoulder height. When installing a different brake setup though (Wilwood, big brakes etc.) I normally use the 99.5+ unit bearings on the pre-90 knuckles since there is less offset to compensate for and the wheel studs are longer. They work just fine in the earlier knuckles.

Interesting. On my 91 there is no board there. It’s a plastic clamshell that opens up to hold the fabric.

Yeah, prices on our trucks are not coming down. Big demand low supply.

Proof of concept coming along. More tweaking required but here’s a teaser.

Do those open up like a clamshell to insert the fabric? On my 91 they are a clamshell design but I’ve never seen piping on some

The only substantial change on the unit bearing was in 99.5+ when they went to longer studs and a different shoulder height. The pre 90 unit bearings also had a different bearing design. The pre 90 knuckles had bolt on calipers with thick lugs cast into the knuckles. The pads were held in only by the calipers and they also had a ball joint “preload” insert in the lower knuckle flange. In 90 they added the “wings” onto the knuckles to retain the pads and the caliper mounts are itty bitty compared to the older knuckles. The rotors in 99.5 also went to a cast design.

Did the sensor run a light or gauge?

Looking forward to the build. For some reason I think we have all the 91 eliminators ever made in the club lol. Glad to see a fellow HO

I remember my dad always telling me, nothing gets stuck more than a 4x4. It is pretty amazing how 2wd can get around. Pick your lines and it’s almost magical. Appologies @Minuit for the hijack. To answer the main question, I was born in the Renix MJ era

Love top gear. And for those that think you need 4x4, lockers, winch, lift to go wheeling:

No need to get personal here Jesse. We’re all here to help in one way or another.

Yep they’re not bad at all. If your getting their kit, stick with the longer 4.0 rods vs the short 4.2 rods. It’s a bit extra but worth it