ghetdjc320

Yes. The ZJ valve is not adjustable and if you delete the load sensing valve it is just a standard prop valve. The Wilwood has the best flow for quicker pedal response. Also, you can adjust the bias based on future mods like larger tires or heavy bumpers. And in regards to frequent adjustement, it’s not different than the ZJ valve. Once you get it setup you leave it alone. The advantage is the initial adjustability to tailor it to your rig.

I also really like this idea. It’s hard to dig through parts and find what your looking for especially when the titles aren’t descriptive. @Pete M What about auto-archiving the threads after a certain period of time with no activity? That way either the seller needs to “bump” the thread to keep it alive or eventually it just goes away and only relevant posts remain

I used some pipe sealant gel and it gave me no problems but I could see how that fitting could bind up easily.

I’ve never had a set but a local shop had just bought a new setup that gave a kind of “hex” crimp. Not very nice crimp compared to the typical AC shop mandrel hydraulic crimpers. It does the trick and doesn’t leek but doesn’t look clean like a factory crimp.

The ZJ prop valve is ok for a ZJ which has better weight distribution than our trucks. It does work well but to really dial things in get the Wilwood or similar. Just my $.02

The Mishimoto dropped right in for me. I researched the subject extensively and it basically came down to the actual thickness of the cores. I had an all aluminum csf radiator and it had (2) 5/8” cores for a 1.25 overall thickness. The novak is the thickest and the mishimoto falls somewhere in between. The Mishimoto warranty is what did it for me. The novak is probably one of if not the best one out there but I haven’t had the best results with Novak’s customer support. I’d still run their radiator though if I wanted the best

Money sent. Had to have one

True

Yeah that does happen sometimes. All depends on how well adjusted and what kind of shape the original drums were in. The stopping power of drums is typically better than disks given the show to drum surface area. But disks definitely are superior for maintenance, adjustment and overall performance (cooling, self-cleaning etc.)

Will it also do 37* flares in larger tubing? Been looking at something that could flare stainless fuel lines to install AN fittings.

It’s a bit of work to swap them in with the linkage and brake light setup on the pre-91’s so make sure the booster is in good working order.

This was all hand bent using the SURR tubing.

That’s a great list. I picked up the SURR kit from summit which includes a nice variety of fittings and the line is made in the US and is some of quality stuff.

This info may be helpful:

Those particular rear disks need more pressure to equal the same braking force the stock drum brakes had (if they were in perfect working order and adjusted properly). The distribution block is a choke point for fluid flow for sure. The original prop valve may or may not let enough volume through. Either way, either replace the distribution block with a good prop valve and eliminate the load sensing valve or, if your load sensing valve can provide adequate flow, raise the linkage to provide more pressure to the rear disks than the drums would have had. You’ll have to play around with your braking bias to get it right. Regarding your master cylinder, with a single diaphragm booster you won’t want much more than a 7/8” bore. 15/16 is the max I’d recommend if everything else is perfect. Since you don’t have much assist to the pedal, you need all the hydraulic advantage you can get. Those calipers shouldn’t need any more volume. If you put a 1” or larger MC bore on your stock booster you will decrease overall braking performance. The better setup is to upgrade the booster and MC to a dual diaphragm setup and eliminate the distribution block and load sensing valve. Add a good Wilwood or similar proposal valve and adjust your braking bias. It’s a not too much work and will give you significantly better brakes with your existing setup. Assuming this is going in your 86 MJ, you will have some slight mods to do. Write ups on the swaps with both WJ and XJ boosters are a plenty.

Ok, so I just ordered the arb high output compressor which I’ll mount where the old air box was (running the thor cowl intake). Also got the transgo kit for the aw4 as well as a hilift extreme jack up mount just above the passenger wheel well in the bed (locked for sure). Also got some Russell ARB locker lines because those blue plastic lines don’t inspire any confidence.

Same here. Also wanting a set

I had a nice NOS handle but my dog decided it was a chew toy... the funny thing is, even after he chewed it all up it was still better than the original

Same here. Went with the Mishimoto and am never looking back. Mishimoto or Novak would be the two I’d go for. The novak has (2) 1.5” cores and is the absolute thickest I’ve seen aside from the original Griffin radiator which they don’t make anymore.

I can make a pretty mean dash switch setup for you also if you need it

It’s funny, it’s so easy to shop for parts and then I have a stack of stuff on my doorstep and I have an “oh crap” moment when I realize I have to install it all

Thanks for posting that. I hadn’t seen the MJ rockers yet. I wonder how their weatherstripping looks compared to oem. Fortunately I was able to get some NOS weatherstripping but the old aftermarket stuff was junk

Don’t know if they were standard but they were on my 91 eliminator also.

Just picked up a front ARB for my D30. Going to grab one for the rear too.

Mine was 3.5k in 2017. Ive since sunk about 30k into it. Jeeps...