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The ZJ parts will require some mods to work. The old teraflex kit (and maybe the G2) have the correct parts needed for the swap on the pre 90’ D44’s and D35’s

All XJ axles 95 to 01 and also TJ D30 axles of all years. All have the 297x u joints. All abs axles starting at least in 91 XJs also had 297 joints. Most one piece axle shafts will have the 297 joints. Some ZJ’s without the CV joint axles shafts also have what you need. Rock auto has plenty of options if your looking for something new. You’ll need to add a passenger side axle shaft seal in the diff

It just sold for $14,200 with 62 bids... We need to keep this trend going .

What is the actual height of that tire mounted and under the weight of the truck?

That’s a great tire size. Less rotating mass = less strain on the axles. They look very nice too. I wish more manufacturers would make that size.

The double slider is probably about 50% bigger opening than the stock 3 pane. Airflow is really nice with everything opened up. I could fit through it and my picture is floating around in the pub section.

Part number A-2011 (S). There are 3 versions of this lifter available I believe. It might be listed as an AMC V8 application but that’s the one for the 4.0 http://toplineauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Lifter-Application-Catalog.pdf

I’ve ordered 3 sets from them. I always get the “S” versions. Let me check the catalog

I use speaker selector switches all the time in home and commercial audio. My question would be how you plan to power them. Will they be running off the head unit or a separate amp? Anything else on that amp?

Yeah I was looking up a video of the inside of my tank that I took when I cleaned it out and don’t see anything that would open up capacity. All well, the 18g tank works for me, always nice to not have to fill up as often especially at $4.75/gal

Here are some basic overviews of the process. The first is from 08 and some of the info is out of date: https://boostedmopar.com/forums/showthread.php?206-FAQ-ECM-tuning-reprogramming-and-how-to-use-D-CAL More recent Jeep specific info: https://nc4x4.com/forum/threads/jeep-sbec-pcm-tuning-91-95.177279/page-2

There is nothing super special about an eprom programmer. There are at least 4-5 different latches available for that eprom. Turbo Mopar is a good site for running the sbec ecu’s. The epoxy sealant is the biggest mess.

So on my 91 swb I believe I have like a 16 or maybe 18 gallon tank. Is there an internal mod that would add fill-up capacity?

The 97+ JTEC units can be tuned with HP Tuners. As to pistons, I used the Keith black forged back in the day but there are now several manufacturers making the pistons with the correct pin height for the 4.0 rods. Lookup the calculator on Jeep strokers site for your comp ratio. I run about 10.5:1 with a .038 quench. The tight quench allows me to run regular gas with no pinging. The aluminum head also helps as the combustion chamber design is less prone to hot spots. Newer engines with direct injection can run significantly higher CR and still run pump gas also.

This is done daily on the sbec series controllers from Chrysler. They’ve been doing it for years now. I posted the link to the Jeep specific tuner but there are many others. There are entire forums dedicated to reprogramming the sbec units.

@Renoenvy08 Your shop is nuts. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-26-ax15 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1991,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180055,transmission-manual,manual+transmission+assembly,8672

So I monitored my voltage at the pdc, alternator and battery (optima yellow top approx 2 years old). With no load at all I have 12.95v from the battery which is right on. When idling i have 14.28 until I turn on AC, fans and headlights. It drops to 14.17 and hold steady for about 1 minute. Over the next 2-3 minutes the voltage steadily drops to about 13. This 1 volt of difference is enough to drop my fan output below what it needs to keep up with this engine (fairly heavily built). I sent off my Singer 270a to get rebuilt and plan on putting it back on either way but am seriously debating where to go for cooling, the factory fans didn’t cut it when I had that setup. Kind of back to the drawing board on this one. Again, idle over temp is my only issue.

I know the vast majority of MJ’s are renix era and @cruiser54’s tips have proven to be invaluable. However, for the HO crowd, it would be nice to have some tips as well since there are still plenty of little problem areas that could be addressed in the same fashion as the cruiser tips. Any chance we could compile this info and then consolidate it for reference? @Pete M please feel free to move this topic if it’s better in another location. Calling all HO MJ owners

It’s also an option to do stand alone efi either using the 4.0 HO harness and ecu from 91-95 or a stand alone unit from Holley, mega squirt, hall tech etc. That way you can keep your engine running happy and your original wiring in-tact. The factory harnesses just fused together chasis and efi harnesses. They can be separated though as it doesn’t actually take very much to run an HO engine

On a serious note, for reference, note that most injectors are rated at 3 bar (43.5psi) and not 39psi which is what our stock FPR flows with no vacuum attached or at WOT. 24lb injectors rated at 43.5psi obviously will flow less at 39psi. On my latest build I got some 6 hole 27lb injectors which give me around 24lbs at 39psi. Some Ford injectors are also rated at 39psi but always worth confirming

Yikes those lights are rough! I used an M6 socket head screw. It has a perfect size and flat shoulder so it doesn’t split the plastic. Only thing you’ll need is a m6 nut clip.

Is your PCV working correctly? A plugged system will blow oil out every seal

It’s more of a brainstorming session regarding the HO charging system. I’m also running a Warn 10k winch along with all the other electrical add ons. The electric cooling fans have always been my number 1 issue. They have a real performance difference between 12.5 and 14.25v. My Singer alternator needs a rebuild so I sent it off and installed a new Napa 90a. While reviewing the spec sheet that came with it it got me thinking about what is actually happening with the voltage in my MJ. I just got done completely revamping and relooming the entire under hood harness. Replaced connectors, repairs and broken insulation and tested every single FI and charging system circuit. Alternator output is 14.25 at idle but once I turn on ac, fans and lights I drop down to about 13v. Not a big if it wasn’t for the fact that the e fan output drops quite a bit with that 1.25v difference. Enough that it can’t keep up with the cooling demands in traffic at idle.

Please elaborate. The the only energy dissipated by the radiator is thermal unless you are referring to a disruption of flow???

I have a burnt out Singer 270a alternator I’m getting rebuilt. The ultimate issue is these fans. They are marginal at 14v and the cfm is too low at 12.5v. All the added electronics (HID lighting, arb compressor, triple fans, audio system) I’ve integrated are just too much to maintain a good voltage.