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Lots of people use beehive LS springs. If you have a decent machine shop that can machine the spring pockets and do the valve you might want to consider going with LS parts. LS valve are also 8mm and come in a huge variety of sizes and materials. I went with a complete Edelbrock head and have no regrets. The updated chamber design is quite nice and the springs are good for pretty much any cam you can throw at it. The issues I have with the comp cams setup is the vacuum at idle which will lead to inadequate brake booster respond. Also, they use a very narrow lobe which is more prone to wear. They are probably 35% narrower than the oem cam and have far less lifter contact. The Mopar 2229 cam is also a nice options for a mid rpm build. Most of these cams though will loose vacuum. On my last stroker build I went with a hydroboost brake setup to get the brake performance back.

I’d recommend reaching out to Russ Pottenger at Buehler racing. He can hook you up with the best cam and spring setup for your engine. He is the man when it comes to these builds. Here is his email: russbnbracing@yahoo.com

Going to tag @Minuit here since he’s one of our electrical gurus (I’m sure there are others as well). Wanted to discuss the actual current draw and charging system of the HO MJ’s/XJ’s. Not sure how much they have in common with the renix era stuff but the principles are the same. Alternator: when it comes to the current output, alternators are typically rated at a specific engine rpm (~2500) and a specific voltage. I’m no expert in this field and am mostly self taught from tinkering with electronics. But from what I have learned, as voltage decreases amp draw increases to maintain the same accessory output (eg electric fan). So let’s say a 90a alternator is only putting out somewhere around ~50a when idling. The HO charging system runs from the alternator to the pdc on an 8awg cable that has a splice to 2 8wag cables that enter the pdc. It then goes to 2 different 60a fuses and on to the fuse buss bar. The battery is connected to the opposite end of the pdc via the two stud posts. This is how the battery is charged on the stock system. And how it provides power to the pdc when the engine isn’t running. Now on to my issues (and I suspect many of you have had or will have similar issues). I run a FF dynamics triple 10 fan setup with shrouds. This is an overpriced crap system. Amp draw for each fan is 5a while running but startup is about 35-40a. Max cfm is 900 cfm but that’s at 14.4v and you will rarely see that kind of voltage at idle with that much current draw. So let’s tally this up (and this is where I need your expertise) Fuel Pump draw: ? Ecu draw: ? Lighting draw: ? Fan draw: ? TCU draw: ? AC clutch draw: ? HVAC blower draw: ? I'm sure there are many other items. My point being, I don’t think that 50a at idle is nearly enough to power everything. Thoughts?

Cuz electric fans suck

Looking for the stock mechanical fan and shroud in good condition. I can get the shroud new online if needed but if you have a good oem one it would probably fit better in the same box. Any xj or mj 4.0 fan should work thanks

So what’s the verdict on what model sender these are? I need one for my 91

84-96 XJ’s with some exceptions. Seats changed in 95 I believe. Also, xj seats will require the mj bucket seat brackets to mount. Some of the interior trim such as b pillar, drivers kick panel, and door sill trim are mj unique

Very good to know. I just may have to add one to my next order lol

Dirtbound has the cad drawings for Keusty’s right? Has anyone asked them what the plan is?

Just a slight info adjustment here: 84-89 knuckles are the old style and 90+ are the new style. The old style used a bolt on caliper that housed the brake pads. The newer styles have a floating caliper design with cast in brake pad “wings”. It is this design that doesn’t allow for big brake setups on the newer style knuckles without serious mods. Wilwood makes a bolt on big brake kit for the pre-90 knuckles but you can also home brew one with parts store components.

I believe that fuse block is still available new. Try contacting Painless wiring if you need a new one.

I like the idea here. I recently added a compressor and am installing lockers. It would be really neat to have the labels be custom. But I know how much extra effort it takes to make a one-off piece. If your interested in making them and could do a custom layout I’d be game for one.

That GMB high flow actually cooled better than anything I’d used before and I ran it for about 5 years with zero issues. The flowkooler just moved water too fast for a stock radiator setup.

Ive been curious about that also. Haven’t seen a new Mopar unit but probably worth a shot. Is the 4.0 part number still available new from Mopar?

I currently run a truetrac rear and have an arb going on the front. But I’ve had air lockers front and rear, truetracs front and rear and an Aussie front with open rear. The lunchbox was terrible in snow or ice but fun everywhere else. The truetracs were very good overall and keep you out of trouble but you will still see a tire spin. The selectables were the best overall. If I drove snow or ice frequently I’d be inclined toward the truetracs front and rear. For anything else I’d go selectable. The Aussie torq locker for the D30 is a nice lunchbox setup though.

$149 at Hesco. This is an airtex e2000 pump. $55 all day long. and you have to ask yourself: when did Hesco get the factory to start manufacturing fuel pumps? $122 at Hesco. $44.79 on rock auto. They’ve been doing this for years and they thrive off of unsuspecting Jeepers. Apologies to the OP... I’m done now

They are the same. I’ve ordered both. The flowkooler does not have a stamped steel plate spot welded to the impeller. It has a billet unit. Hesco has been rebranding these things for years along with a LOT of other parts. They made huge markups selling “custom” parts that were really just of the shelf items that they found out fit the 4.0. Their valvetrain products, electronics, sensors, water pumps etc are mostly just rebranded parts. They’ve been doing this at least since 2012. I should make a list of all the stuff I’ve bought from them that was “custom”. Here are a few examples: “Hesco” high volume oil pump: Melling part number on box. “Hesco” timing chain: Cloyes part number. “Hesco” vss to run a cable speedo and have an electric signal for the ecu: standard parts 91 YJ VSS (huge markup here). “Hesco” high volume water pump: flowkooler. Not saying they don’t machine any parts anymore but very few it would seem. The high flow thermostat housing is just an off the shelf crown unit with a 1” sanding drum run over the choke point at a 45*. Nothing “custom machined” about it.

The Hesco is a flowkooler with a huge markup as are most Hesco products. Unless you have significantly increased radiator capacity, stick with a stock flow pump. I’ve been down this road, the high flow thermostat housing is also a gimmick on a standard 4.0. You don’t want the coolant flowing so fast through the radiator that it fails to properly cool. The biggest difference is to get the thickest radiator core you can stuff in there. The Novak would be at the top of the list followed by maybe the mishimoto and cold case. Csf tends to have small cores. The stock system is fairly well balanced but If you radiator capacity is significantly higher than stock then a higher flow water pump works well. Also consider the GMB high flow pump. It doesn’t have a billet impeller but does flow higher than stick. Kind of falls in between the stock and flowkooler setup.

Here is the link: https://teamcherokee.com/hood-striker-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-comanche-1987-2001/ look in the “related parts” section and you’ll find everything else you need.

All the parts for the hood latch can be found on teamcherokee.com They had all the oem parts as of last week.

Sounds a bit like a loose flywheel bolt to me. You’ll likely see some metal flake in the tranny oil by the way. Never opened a manual tranny that didn’t have a bit of flake in it from the synchros. Most people just can’t drive stick plus those synchros are wear items. So no need to suspect a major problem from metal dust unless you see actual fragments in the oil or a truly excessive amount of metal dust.

I’m running 6.4 seconds on my built engine with 4.56 gears. This was on my gps speedo app. For wheeling I’m not a fan of the 8.8. Its a decent axle for a mild street build though. I’ve dropped some coin on the d35 and am super happy with the clearance and strength so far. The disk kits for the 35 also fit the 8.25. Maybe a few years down the road, I’d like to build a 2wd mj street truck.

This is getting old guys. Our trucks are rare and desirable to the right buyer. Should be worth plenty depending on condition, location, mods, etc. The opinions on value are pretty pointless. The market will determine everything. If you want to sell your truck cheap or expensive that’s entirely up to the seller. Everyone wants to make a buck so let’s not be too critical

Depends what you want to build. If your planning on building a rig like this then it’s well worth it. If your trying to build an all original truck then it’s probably not the best place to start. Initial investment is peanuts compared to what it will cost long term.

I had the same issues. You’ll need to get those areas repaired for sure. You may be able to get away with the notch flares but lots of body work will still be involved