ghetdjc320

Yep, it looks like 96 electronics is what he has

@eaglescout526 can get you a new Mopar unit if they are available. All the aftermarket ones tend to not be nearly as good as the oem one

Here is a diagram of how the plumbing works: might be worth pulling that sender first though to see what’s in the tank in the unlikely event that they put a regulator in there.

You don’t have to pull the tank to remove the sender. It’s just a locking ring there that comes off to remove the sender. There are several ways to install a fuel pressure regulator. The goal is to get 50psi to the rail and let all the excess fuel return to the tank. The fuel rail you have now doesn’t have a return line or regulator like the 91-95’s had (renix too). So you’ll need a regulator that has an inlet and two outlets. The feed line from the pump will go to the inlet and the regulated outlet will go to the fuel rail and the other outlet will return fuel to the tank. You’ll have to rig this up and plumb it yourself. I get these sort of regulators from summit racing since it’s a universal part and there are hundreds of versions that would work. Alternatively, you could swap on the older style fuel rail with the regulator built in. You’ll have to swap the regulator for a higher psi one to get you to 50 psi. I’m sure someone who has done their obd2 swap has the regulator information for using the old style rail.

So are you wanting the engine to run on HO electronics? If so, are we talking 91-95 ecu or 96+? Or are you wanting to run renix efi? If it’s renix, I can’t help you there but if you go stand alone efi or obd1 let me know. We have plenty of renix experts here too.

pretty much any shock will fit if you know the extended and collapsed lengths and it has an upper stud mount. The valving and travel will not likely be that great but it’s better than no shock.

There is one thing I am finding odd though. That sender is really clean. Almost like it’s new. Might be worth pulling to see what’s inside.

And just to clarify, that module from Tanks does what you need. It can reverse the resistance of any sender to fit pretty much any gauge. It can even do exponential signal sweeps. Pretty neat little device.

That metal line that is disconnected was your old fuel return line. There is no visible fuel pressure regulator here at all. I’d mount a regulator rather near the tank or in the engine bay and plumb the return line back in. Where does that rubber hose go off the tank sender that is pointing up in the pics? I imagine it’s plugged somewhere.

Here is a pic of the inside. The reflector is in the housing. It should be fairly simple to get some new reflectors in there if needed but I’m more curious to see how many housings get broken as a result of people trying to swap lenses. Most of the housings out there are in really rough shape anyways. @Dzimm repito housings will probably be hugely popular very soon. Surprised keystone didn’t just make a whole new tail lamp with housing.

Good work. Will the silver ones have chrome trim like the originals?

That’s pretty much what I did once I got the shells apart. Just used a hammer and dolly all the way around.

The gas gauge is somewhat secondary to getting things running right I would say but I like that option as well

eBay or the classifieds section for now. They are only available used are can cost more than the whole truck lol

https://comancheclub.com/topic/65482-tailgate-straightening/?tab=comments#comment-681767

Checkout my them read on separating the shells. Pulling in the handle won’t help since it’s bolted to the inner panel

I’d say the fuel gauge is secondary to gettin it running right. Let’s see what the fuel system needs first. Just my $.02

Looked up the fuel pressure spec for you and it should be around 50 psi at idle. That is a static fuel pressure and should not change on the obd2 systems. (On the 91-95 HO systems the fuel pressure regulator on the rail would change based on engine vacuum and the fue injection was programmed to run on this variable pressure. Not so on the obd2 engines. The ecu maps are based on a static pressure).

No sending unit from an XJ will fit in your tank. This isn’t anything that quadratec will have. Here are some pump options: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1989,comanche,4.0l+242cid+l6,1181674,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 The newer XJ fuel system had a regulator that was in the fuel tank and only ran one fuel supply line to the engine at a preset psi. Your old MJ fuel system had a supply line and a return line going to the fuel rail. There was a pressure regulator on the fuel rail that set the pressure for the rail and allowed anything else to return to the tank. You are going to have to fab up something similar. You will need to find the correct fuel pressure for the obd2 system (96-01 XJ) and get an external adjustable fuel pressure regulator along with fittings and hoses. You need one with one inlet and two outlets. The inlet will be the feed from your pump. One outlet will be your fuel rail line that will need to have the pressure set (you’ll need a gauge for this). The other line will be a return line that will connect to your old return line (provided it’s still there and no plugged off somewhere). You may not need a new pump but running with no regulator will put undue strain on it. Let’s get a few more pics. Let’s see what your current sending unit looks like on the side of your fuel tank (just take a picture of it as is, no need to disassemble anything). Also, track the main fuel lie and the return fuel line and see what they did with the return line. My guess is that it has a cap on it somewhere but you’ll need to know for sure before you can order up any parts to modify things.

You just need the pump, not the whole sending unit. And the XJ sending units don’t fit MJ tanks.

There is also normally an emissions system diagram under the hood on a sticker

Here is a good fuel gauge adapter interface option: https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=748/category_id=184/mode=prod/prd748.htm

The terminator has a built in map sensor (1 bar) and will need to be mounted in the cab somewhere since it’s not fully sealed. You will also need to make sure you have the exact numbers from your fuel injectors to enter the specs in the software. It is self tuning so it should run without further tuning but have Chris dial it in for you. Anything Holley efi I recommend efisystemspro.com They are super helpful and can get you what you need. You can upgrade to the Holley HP efi but will only gain full sequential injection (every so slightly more efficient at idle) and a fully potted ecu. It can run NTK oxygen sensors and has more capabilities for power adders like turbo and superchargers down the road though.

You have an obd2 system which is a return less fuel system (and we can say with some certainty that you have all 96 Cherokee parts swapped in). If you have the original fuel sender and pump from the 89 (which you obviously do since the gas gauges reads backwards) then you have no fuel pressure regulator at all in the system. You pump will be begging for mercy since the only pressure relief it has is the pressure relief valve in the pump itself. You need to add a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel circuit and set it to the correct obd2 psi (seems like high 50’s or low 60’s psi iirc). Then replace your actual fuel pump (just the pump) with a 4.0 XJ/MJ pump. The pumps always make some noise but it’s pretty minimal. There may be a resistor for the fuel pump right near your brake booster on the drivers side inner fender that was added to reduce the pump noise. It does help somewhat but also isn't necessary. Get a fuel pressure regulator and connect the return line to it so you can get the fuel system working the right way. This is something that always gets missed with these obd2 swaps. To get you speedo working, you will need to connect the vehicle speed sensor which is located in the transfer case output (see pic). The speed sensor signal should go to both the ecu and the speedometer. If your jeep dies sometimes when coasting or when you come to a stop it’s normally the speed sensor that is not connected to the ecu. fuel gauge: you newer gauge cluster is meant to read 0-80ohms resistance but your sender is like a 2**-30 ohms. Look for a signal converter from Dakota digital or you could swap out the sending unit to one from a 91-92 MJ but they are very hard to find and are only available used. Auto parts stores will say they are available new but they are for a Cherokee XJ and don’t fit. The signal converter is the easiest way to go here.

I’ll post a more detailed reply later but the terminator x is a great way to go. And use the hyperspark distributor for the 258. That gives you full timing control and sequenced batch injection (1/5,3/4,2/6) The hyperspark has a built in crank sensor for timing. You’ll need the Holley CTS and IAT. Bosch 4.9 O2 comes with it. you can also run an obd1 sbec computer and have Chris @christuned socket and program it. He is the Russ Pottenger of ecu tuning for the 4.0