ghetdjc320

The tires the OP is putting on are the same diameter and a bit narrower. I think he’s just looking for pics of alloy 17’s with 35’s

Agreed. Pulley system is definitely 96+ also

Agreed. Only adjustment is that the CPS sensor connector changed throughout the HO years. 91-92 has a round plug. Others have a flat plug. I’m curious to see if there is an obd2 ecu in there or not though. Probably obd1/sbec but it may be an obd2 since that looks like a 96-98 engine

From the pics some things are clear and I could take an educated guess on others. You have an open loop cooling system which is a later design. Your throttle body looks like the standard HO throttle body and looks like between a 96-98 intake manifold. I’d guess the engine is probably a 96-98 given the barcode on the valve cover. Gauges look like your typical 91-95 HO set. Only question I still have is what ecu your running.

Need a pic of the drivers side inner fender well by the air cleaner too

The issue: in the mods and repairs section, we will have users who are in need of urgent help to repair their vehicle to get it back on the road but their threads sometimes get lost or have very late replies since no one really knows that help is needed. Those who are modifying typically don’t need immediate responses. If urgent assistance is needed, would it be helpful to just add “urgent” to the topic or would it make sense to perhaps have another section for those who are doing repairs and need help ASAP? Another option would be to separate “modifications” from “repairs”. Just some thoughts to kick around

Sounds good. This is all pretty straight forward stuff to take care of. Can you post pics of the gauge cluster in the dash. Also please post a pic of the drivers side inner fender in the engine bay. What I’m trying to determine is whether or not they swapped in the 94’ electronics as well along with the 4.0 swap. Once we narrow down the electronics that were swapped in its fairly straight forward to take care of these other issues.

You’ll save some weight on the tire too by having a larger rim. I run 33’s on 17” wheels. I know it’s not what your looking for but since no one else has chimed in here is a pic:

This thread is further proof of what @Pete M and others have said before: there is no such thing as a cheap v8 swap.

Yep that’s it. Is there a computer located on the front inner drivers side fender in the engine bay? If so, can you take a picture of it? The connection is not 91-92 and looks like possibly a later version to me but perhaps it is Renix. @Minuit or @cruiser54 May know what year connector that is. Out of curiosity, what makes you think your CPS needs to be replaced?

Look for the connector on this line:

can you snap a picture of the CPS connector? The question will be what electronics are in the truck now.

Lol, these topics are always a can of worms. So many opinions and different experiences. Many will say x oil gave them 100’s of thousands of trouble free miles while others will say that x oil destroyed their tranny & tcase etc. Many won’t trust even the manufacturers recommendations these days and occasionally that’s for a good reason. At the end of the day it will just be up to you because the suggestions will never end. I hate to say it but this is one of those topics that requires you do your own research instead of going strictly off of what your pears say. Otherwise this is about as subjective as health advice, in other words, everyone has an opinion and, of course, some great reason for believing their opinion.

Some new shoes

I’ve been using straight 30 weight motor oil in the tcase for a long time now. Excellent results. 10w-30 also works great in an ax15 and I believe a Mopar TSB even recommended it iirc.

97+ doors are also a nice swap with a larger door glass pane (that can also be swapped into the earlier doors). The striker and door seals are also a bit more modern design and quieter.

The drivers side kick panel is a tough location for a speaker due to the e brake being there. You could go with some 4x6 in the lower dash trim though.

Should be noted also that a good 4 link provides many more benefits than just improved flex. A good set of leafs can flex quite a bit as well. But the axle geometry and stability with a properly designed 4 link are better than any leaf design. On the flip side, if your using your truck as a truck and hauling items in it, leaf springs are a super solid system.

I wasn’t recommending them. Just saying that if you are only after droop, they will give you that. That being said, the idea of revolvers being “horrible” is subjective. If you learn how to wheel and drive with them they can be just fine.

Doesn’t do any good for a wheel to drop if there isn’t any significant weight on it. Lockers are more important. If you want droop just grab some teraflex revolver shackles or similar. No big advantage though.

The trick with gears is just to think in 3d. Think about adjustments on all 3 axis then just add the necessary preload.

I also run the JCR rear bumper. Dirt Bound also makes a nice unit but it doesn’t give as much corner protection as the JCR. There are some subtle differences between the two. Also seen a new Gladiator bumper installed and it doesn’t look too bad at all.

Agreed, surprisingly I’ve actually gained MPG’s going with 4.56 over 4.10 on 33’s. The 4.0 torque is down low but a little higher rpm seems to get it to peak efficiency at cruising speed (which I haven’t seen in a long time here in island lol)

Currie, Savvy, metal cloak, and tons others. Just get adjustable arms for a TJ, XJ or MJ. They are all the same. Just stay away from the fixed aftermarket ones.