ghetdjc320

I run a magnaflow muffler and it’s alright. No droning but a nice little tone when under hard acceleration. I fought exhaust leaks though that would always be noisy for a while. The flange gasket and the manifold collector tended to leak on my truck. Since then I’ve replaced the exhaust and it’s very quiet until you get on it.

The shims for the carrier in an hp dana 30 *should* be under the bearings. As long as you keep the shims in the same location you won’t have to reset any gearing specs. A press isn’t really even needed. Done plenty of R&P swaps and locker installs without one. The trick is removing the old bearings. I have an actual bearing puller for rings and pinions that takes care of it in just a few seconds but if you don’t have the specialty puller it can be a pain.

I’m not sure what engine you currently have but the 4.0 and 2.5 share the same engine to transmission bolt pattern. The ax5 and the ba10/5 are the least desirable options but I understand sometimes you have to just use what you can get. Are you trying to do a 4wd conversion?

Pinion seal on the HP 30 is a 30min driveway job

The bearing is part of the bracket and is only available as a single piece. Not sure if new ones are available. @eaglescout526 would know for sure. At some point in time we are going to have to come up with some way to replace those bearings with an aftermarket component.

Very true

A shop would probably charge less to do a v8 swap. What do you want to transfer from the 98? I’ve never seen a shop do it right but I’m sure one exists somewhere. Many will say they can do it but few have the experience doing a complete swap. The most capable MJ/XJ/YJ/TJ/ZJ/CJ mechanics tend to be home mechanics.

In summary: Your oil pressure is not out of the norm. Double check your valve cover clearance if that has been an issue for you in the past. Don’t run 10w60

They are in the works. I hope to have these available starting around July.

Uh oh, I sense another oil thread coming lol

Have you tried adding some marvel mystery oil or similar to quiet the valves? Your oil pressure is still ok.

Keep at it patiently. Heat and consistent pressure will eventually release the adhesive.

Good to know, I was thinking all metric tons were 2wd but I got it confused with being a long bed. All MT’s were long beds iirc right? Just flew for the last 25 hrs and am a bit jet lagged lol.

I wrote a whole thread on that in the diy section with all he details. In summary, brakes aren’t compatible. 97 and previous R&P and carrier will swap. 98+ are a 8.9” ring gear.

iirc no dana 44 equipped MJ was 4wd

Have you done Cruisers tips with the blower motor ground? Perhaps give that a shot if you haven’t. Does your blower motor have the provision for the AC vent hose to cool it?

Front driveshaft just need to be balanced. Some of those early driveshafts weren’t balanced much at all and some were. Either way, just get it balanced and you’ll be alright.

No kidding. I bought several of their products over the years and things went majorly downhill over that time. Imho Hesco isn’t far behind them either. They just aren’t really in the game anymore Clifford, 505 performance and Hesco are all on my “never again” list.

I see a Clifford intake on that engine

The HP to engine displacement is well within reach. Here are significant design limitations with the 4.0 but 700+ HP has been done on stock stroke engines. I think something like a mini stroker (232 crank) with pretty much a square bore to stroke ratio could probably do phenomenal with forced induction. A flow through head with overhead cam though would completely modernize the 4.0.

Here are my pics for the tailgate repair:

Are you referring to the seam along the top inside?

Great axles

It might be worth it to consider a stand alone efi vs an obd2 system. That way you can have all the access to programming that you’ll ever need and don’t have to worry about trying to integrate the harness nearly as much. Just a thought