ghetdjc320

Keep at it patiently. Heat and consistent pressure will eventually release the adhesive.

Good to know, I was thinking all metric tons were 2wd but I got it confused with being a long bed. All MT’s were long beds iirc right? Just flew for the last 25 hrs and am a bit jet lagged lol.

I wrote a whole thread on that in the diy section with all he details. In summary, brakes aren’t compatible. 97 and previous R&P and carrier will swap. 98+ are a 8.9” ring gear.

iirc no dana 44 equipped MJ was 4wd

Have you done Cruisers tips with the blower motor ground? Perhaps give that a shot if you haven’t. Does your blower motor have the provision for the AC vent hose to cool it?

Front driveshaft just need to be balanced. Some of those early driveshafts weren’t balanced much at all and some were. Either way, just get it balanced and you’ll be alright.

No kidding. I bought several of their products over the years and things went majorly downhill over that time. Imho Hesco isn’t far behind them either. They just aren’t really in the game anymore Clifford, 505 performance and Hesco are all on my “never again” list.

I see a Clifford intake on that engine

The HP to engine displacement is well within reach. Here are significant design limitations with the 4.0 but 700+ HP has been done on stock stroke engines. I think something like a mini stroker (232 crank) with pretty much a square bore to stroke ratio could probably do phenomenal with forced induction. A flow through head with overhead cam though would completely modernize the 4.0.

Here are my pics for the tailgate repair:

Are you referring to the seam along the top inside?

Great axles

It might be worth it to consider a stand alone efi vs an obd2 system. That way you can have all the access to programming that you’ll ever need and don’t have to worry about trying to integrate the harness nearly as much. Just a thought

Yep, it looks like 96 electronics is what he has

@eaglescout526 can get you a new Mopar unit if they are available. All the aftermarket ones tend to not be nearly as good as the oem one

Here is a diagram of how the plumbing works: might be worth pulling that sender first though to see what’s in the tank in the unlikely event that they put a regulator in there.

You don’t have to pull the tank to remove the sender. It’s just a locking ring there that comes off to remove the sender. There are several ways to install a fuel pressure regulator. The goal is to get 50psi to the rail and let all the excess fuel return to the tank. The fuel rail you have now doesn’t have a return line or regulator like the 91-95’s had (renix too). So you’ll need a regulator that has an inlet and two outlets. The feed line from the pump will go to the inlet and the regulated outlet will go to the fuel rail and the other outlet will return fuel to the tank. You’ll have to rig this up and plumb it yourself. I get these sort of regulators from summit racing since it’s a universal part and there are hundreds of versions that would work. Alternatively, you could swap on the older style fuel rail with the regulator built in. You’ll have to swap the regulator for a higher psi one to get you to 50 psi. I’m sure someone who has done their obd2 swap has the regulator information for using the old style rail.

So are you wanting the engine to run on HO electronics? If so, are we talking 91-95 ecu or 96+? Or are you wanting to run renix efi? If it’s renix, I can’t help you there but if you go stand alone efi or obd1 let me know. We have plenty of renix experts here too.

pretty much any shock will fit if you know the extended and collapsed lengths and it has an upper stud mount. The valving and travel will not likely be that great but it’s better than no shock.

There is one thing I am finding odd though. That sender is really clean. Almost like it’s new. Might be worth pulling to see what’s inside.

And just to clarify, that module from Tanks does what you need. It can reverse the resistance of any sender to fit pretty much any gauge. It can even do exponential signal sweeps. Pretty neat little device.

That metal line that is disconnected was your old fuel return line. There is no visible fuel pressure regulator here at all. I’d mount a regulator rather near the tank or in the engine bay and plumb the return line back in. Where does that rubber hose go off the tank sender that is pointing up in the pics? I imagine it’s plugged somewhere.

Here is a pic of the inside. The reflector is in the housing. It should be fairly simple to get some new reflectors in there if needed but I’m more curious to see how many housings get broken as a result of people trying to swap lenses. Most of the housings out there are in really rough shape anyways. @Dzimm repito housings will probably be hugely popular very soon. Surprised keystone didn’t just make a whole new tail lamp with housing.

Good work. Will the silver ones have chrome trim like the originals?