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I saw that g2 makes a similar kit that's a little bit cheaper. Looks like the same thing basically to. Any chance you have a link? There was a specific spacer ring included with the teraflex kit to fit the old style d44’s that was a tough find with other brands. If G2 has that or doesn’t require it that’s awesome. Have you reviewed the instructions for that kit and are they specific to the early XJ 44?

@jdog asked: “which multimeter do you own”. Logically this would indicate that he is assuming you need help knowing how to use your meter. If you know how to use your meter and perform the test then the type of meter you have is irrelevant. it was in response to your question: “ ok explain that too me in a much simpler way kinda confused what I should do” Now in regards to your ohm test, your looking for the smallest number you get with your reading. So in your case .1 ohms which would indicate good continuity and minimal resistance in that circuit.

Thanks for the part number for those wheel studs. I never thought I would need them but the face of the disks are thicker than I imagined.

I just made a replacement for mine using some 1/2” birch ply that I bedlined. Works great and is a nice mounting point for storage and organizing behind the seat.

Look for a setting that shows the ohms symbol (google what it looks like). Or read the manual that came with your meter. What your measuring is the resistance or continuity of a wire from end to end. If a wire is damaged it will either have a high resistance reading from end to end or it won’t read at all (most meters display the infinity symbol). Put your meter in whatever mode shows resistance. Then touch both your black and red leads together. You should see 0ohms on the meter meaning that there is no resistance (aka there is a good connection). Now try testing the lines from end to end as mentioned in the previous posts. One lead on one end of the wire and the other lead on the other end of the wire. It doesn’t matter which lead is used in which end. If your still unsure what this process is checkout a YouTube video on measuring resistance with a multimeter. Remember, google is our friend

I’ll throw this out there since I don’t see that anyone has mentioned it yet: There is a general consensus on this and pretty much every other non mall-crawler Jeep forum to stay away from Rough Country and Rusty’s (it’s not a rule, but is definitely the prevailing consensus). If you have not yet purchased the Rough Country kit I would recommend you reconsider or at the very least take time to read the real life, long-term experiences from those who run their products and actually use them offroad. The kit you linked in your op has a super short overload spring which is just not the way to generate lift in a spring pack. If you go add a leaf, at least get a full length leaf since it will be a much better ride without fatiguing your other springs in the pack as much. The joints in the lower control arms, lack of extended u bolts, not addressing the track bar, pretzel stick twin tube shocks, it’s just not worth it imho. The only “budget” lift kit components I've had decent success with is Zone off-road. It wasn’t great either but decent. In a nutshell, there is no cheap way to get 33’s under your rig and maintain stock drive ability without a regear and some good suspension components. Regearing is not super complex but requires a decent investment is some quality tools, some math skills, and a lot of time a patience especially the first go around. And regearing will also require new carriers which in turn begs the question of “should I do lockers?” And the snowball effect is on. Larger tires also need better steering linkage. Your brakes may also need some upgrades. On the flip side a mild 2.5” or so lift and some 31’s and your truck will still be relatively happy and probably not start breaking things. 33-35’s are a bit of a tipping point for our rigs where things really start to add up. If you do decide to go with 33’s and are willing to do the supporting mods then perhaps consider the “metric” 33’s which are a bit narrower. All depends what rim size you run but I’m running 285/70/17’s and the width is about 11.25” which is a bit easier to work with than the 12.5” standard width 33’s.

Check your caster angle first to know what you need if anything.

What part are you referring to? Any pics?

Stock rake is near 2” IIRC. And yeah, like Pete said, those 3” springs will sit higher and may not settle for a while unless you have some weight back there. 3” rear and 4.5” front would be close to level once it all settle with just a bit of a rake. Not a bad idea to go lower up front though like a 3.5” as Pete suggests since it’s easy to add a small puck to achieve the desired ride height.

The ZJ parts will require some mods to work. The old teraflex kit (and maybe the G2) have the correct parts needed for the swap on the pre 90’ D44’s and D35’s

All XJ axles 95 to 01 and also TJ D30 axles of all years. All have the 297x u joints. All abs axles starting at least in 91 XJs also had 297 joints. Most one piece axle shafts will have the 297 joints. Some ZJ’s without the CV joint axles shafts also have what you need. Rock auto has plenty of options if your looking for something new. You’ll need to add a passenger side axle shaft seal in the diff

It just sold for $14,200 with 62 bids... We need to keep this trend going .

What is the actual height of that tire mounted and under the weight of the truck?

That’s a great tire size. Less rotating mass = less strain on the axles. They look very nice too. I wish more manufacturers would make that size.

The double slider is probably about 50% bigger opening than the stock 3 pane. Airflow is really nice with everything opened up. I could fit through it and my picture is floating around in the pub section.

Part number A-2011 (S). There are 3 versions of this lifter available I believe. It might be listed as an AMC V8 application but that’s the one for the 4.0 http://toplineauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Lifter-Application-Catalog.pdf

I’ve ordered 3 sets from them. I always get the “S” versions. Let me check the catalog

I use speaker selector switches all the time in home and commercial audio. My question would be how you plan to power them. Will they be running off the head unit or a separate amp? Anything else on that amp?

Yeah I was looking up a video of the inside of my tank that I took when I cleaned it out and don’t see anything that would open up capacity. All well, the 18g tank works for me, always nice to not have to fill up as often especially at $4.75/gal

Here are some basic overviews of the process. The first is from 08 and some of the info is out of date: https://boostedmopar.com/forums/showthread.php?206-FAQ-ECM-tuning-reprogramming-and-how-to-use-D-CAL More recent Jeep specific info: https://nc4x4.com/forum/threads/jeep-sbec-pcm-tuning-91-95.177279/page-2

There is nothing super special about an eprom programmer. There are at least 4-5 different latches available for that eprom. Turbo Mopar is a good site for running the sbec ecu’s. The epoxy sealant is the biggest mess.

So on my 91 swb I believe I have like a 16 or maybe 18 gallon tank. Is there an internal mod that would add fill-up capacity?

The 97+ JTEC units can be tuned with HP Tuners. As to pistons, I used the Keith black forged back in the day but there are now several manufacturers making the pistons with the correct pin height for the 4.0 rods. Lookup the calculator on Jeep strokers site for your comp ratio. I run about 10.5:1 with a .038 quench. The tight quench allows me to run regular gas with no pinging. The aluminum head also helps as the combustion chamber design is less prone to hot spots. Newer engines with direct injection can run significantly higher CR and still run pump gas also.

This is done daily on the sbec series controllers from Chrysler. They’ve been doing it for years now. I posted the link to the Jeep specific tuner but there are many others. There are entire forums dedicated to reprogramming the sbec units.

@Renoenvy08 Your shop is nuts. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-26-ax15 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1991,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180055,transmission-manual,manual+transmission+assembly,8672