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Yeah, cruise control would need that vacuum reserve. However, if you deleted the CAD you could probably get by with a more compact canister.

Thats right. Those 4 leaf GS springs raised the truck 2.5" over stock

Also covers a 99 XJ

I don't believe there are any differences on the shoulder height with the pre 90 unit bearings. The difference came mid 99 when they changed rotor designs. I have heard of some differences with the pre-90 but I don't believe it had anything to do with the shoulder height. The unit bearing listed above by @Jeep Driver is for 90-99 according to the application guide

I relocated a smaller universal style one to just In front of the hvac blower motor. I have since eliminated the vacuum canister all together since I don’t really have any vacuum accessories aside from hvac and a single check valve takes care of that.

That’s what I was going for originally. Was planning to mount it to the back panel centering the center console to the sub. That would still leave some cargo room on each side. Then the thought of a tw3 hit me and I could never choose lol

Yep, they are the bolt on style without the pad wings

Did you have to shim much to center the caliper on the rotor? Thanks for the info!

I just installed a new set and they came with the insert also for the knuckles. I have a newer non cad HP30 but I have a nice set of 86 knuckles I cleaned up. Wilwood really needs to update their application chart. 84-89 HP30 knuckles work. The D35 application only list the 97+ TJ also.

Is that the bearing you used? That’s the standard pre-mid-99 design according to the application chart.

This is a question for @Minuit. He just posted the spec somewhere on here within the last week or so

The MJ cab has an odd frequency response as do compact self powered under-seat style subs. I ran an alpine 8” powered and it’s a pretty powerful unit but has bad frequency response. Going to switch to something else.

For those who have done the Wilwood brake swap on the front D30: I just spoke to Wilwood tech support and they could t answer this either. Are you supposed to use the early or late style unit bearing? I know there is a shoulder height difference and since the Wilwood caliper need to center on the rotor (and comes with the shims to do so) I am wondering whether or not the late or early style bearing needs to be used. The install video they have is on a late model TJ using the early style knuckles. Anyone have this info?

Welcome aboard! The Comanche has 4 speaker locations. The 2 front speakers are in the door and are 5.25” speakers. The other two are 4x6 and are in the b pillar corner behind the rear seat near the floor. Many here like to keep everything stock or at least keep the stock locations with updated features. @Minuit is our resident radio guru and sells factory radios that have been completely refurbished and upgraded with really nice modern features. It’s the best of both worlds. Personally, I didn’t keep the stock head unit or even the location though I do appreciate a factory appearance. I retrofit a double din Sony car play unit with backup cam into my dash. It requires a lot of plastic work so if your not comfortable with plastic cutting and welding tools I wouldn’t recommend it. Then of course there are countless custom options and systems that have been built.

Not sure if you have to get your emissions system inspected and it has to be 100% stock. If not, grab an aftermarket magnaflow spun stainless cat. works great and very economical. Your 88 came with a cat and it looks just like the one you posted

You may find those shocks are too long. It’s a bit of a pain but it’s always best to wait until you get your lift on before measuring for shocks. Flipping that u bolt plate probably very nearly kept your original shocks in the original location. It may even be shorter???

The factory knee panel tweeter location actually isn’t bad for the fronts and provides decent imaging between the woofer and tweeter. Another possible thought with your system would be to run the components up front all in factory locations and add some Hertz or similar 5.25 mid bass drivers behind the b panels in the modded brackets. You could also fab up a bracket for a free air 6.5 woofer. With bucket seats though, components in back really do sound good with properly positioned tweeters. Provided that their is not a ton of crap behind the seats. @Minuit is right though, these trucks are loud and there isn’t much to quiet them down. I’ve also gone through significant effort (disassembling sheet metal panels and shells) to quiet down the cab and help contain the spl. It is dramatically better than stock but still not as good as a semi-used bmw.

Awesome, upload pics once you get them in and I’ll do the same when I get back. It’s great to have them posted for future reference

Added a NOS 28mm front XJ sway bar and an Addco 468 rear bar with extended links for my soa lift. John Wright @addco was super helpful to get the bar ordered up. He said they still make all the Comanche bars but that they don’t stock them or show them in their store anymore. Also, for future reference, there is an addco 570 front bar for the Comanche and a 516 for the XJ. So far I’ve only ever heard about people using the 516 on the front of their MJ’s and reporting it was too stiff. The 570 was designed to complement the 468 rear and has the same OD but is slightly softer. That being said, I found my NOS 28mm bar and opted to use that for the front after seeing @HOrnbrod’s post.

Sure thing, but I won’t be back home until early July.

I welded on some new curved shock tabs from ruff stuff. But I believe many have reused the old ones as well

Good to know, I planned to use the Morel tweeters in these brackets also

Yeah, it takes some adjusting but once it’s adjusted it’s a super smooth operation. Much better than all the factory linkage.

Funny you should ask. I have the rugged ridge ones and they don’t fit the floor well due to the extra floor brace running up the center. The weathertech, quadratec and RR all have the same “liner” style design that, although it fits the general shape of the floor, doesn’t contour like it should. I just picked up some Husky 51082 liners. They are the closest to oem Mopar slush mats I have ever seen aside from the actual “Jeep” logo. These mats come in (3) colors and the part numbers are 51081, 51082, and 51083. Because they don’t have the “liner” lip, they can contour to the floor just like oem much better and are true slush mats. That’s the best thing I’ve personally found so far.