ghetdjc320

I believe a lot of these previous owners lacked the proper tool to install the ball joints correctly. It’s a pricey tool but worth it.

Sounds like maybe someone botched the ball joint install at some point in time on this axle and messed up the holes

706944X is what I’ve always used. And that was after pressing out some Moog knurled ones. What exactly doesn’t fit?

Most will suggest that you swap with one for a short bed. Both are in demand.

Interesting question, following. I replaced mine with a good used one with zero problem.

I did . Those huntsmans are fast though and they actually will turnaround and run after you if they can’t escape quick enough.

Someone stole my temp probe along with my multimeter so I can’t say for sure. It I would guess mid 50’s with 85* ambient air.

Those huntsman spiders are all over the place here. Makes reaching your hand down in to a dark hole quite a thrill

My work buddy. Zoom in if you dare

Pics

Singer 250A alternator installed, fuel sending unit repaired, cooling system flushed and installed a new Mopar shroud, 10 blade mech fan, Napa upgraded fan clutch, and Mopar 01 XJ e fan. Also vacuumed and recharged the A/C. @Minuit May be interested to know it took 30oz to get a good fill on my ac with the plate and fin evaporator and condenser.

Ironman makes some good stuff. I’m installing whole steering and track bar setups from them now.

Personally I’d grab any under $5k low rust MJ.

Holly thread resurrection lol. I’ve removed the lenses once and found that soaking the whole assembly in soapy water for a few days softened up the adhesive slightly to make prying it apart a bit easier.

Why wasn’t this available 3 weeks ago lol. I would have bought it up. I drive right through there

https://comancheclub.com/topic/31509-tail-light-restoration/

It should fit. The question will be if the pinion angle is correct for your truck. Are we talking spring under or over the axle?

Yep, you want to use the stock MJ leaf springs and weld on new perches to align it all up and get the right pinion angle. If your going spring over axle, you’d also want the longer soa spring perches to help prevent axle wrap.

There plenty of options available. Personally I prefer a full arm 4 link along with a good track bar setup (essentially 5 links). There is a huge difference in the quality of most kits. the radius arm setups are more common but they use a short arm that connects from the lower long arm to the upper axle arm mounts. These will be your cheapest setups. However, in more extreme articulation the pivot points will rotate the axle more than a true 4/3 link will with full length arms. Plus there is a strength concern here at least to me. One control arm joint failure at the vehicle side now affects the entire side of the axle. A true 3 link can have great amounts of articulation. To me the full length 4 link is the way to go if you want to do both on road and some heavy wheeling. That being said, most places are out a month or more on long arm kits. I would NEVER run a radius arm setup from the likes of rough country. There are plenty of other quality manufacturers out there that have nice kits for the MJ/XJ. Ironmanfab, TNT, and many others out there making good stuff. Short arms with drop brackets also work very well in the 4-6” lift area.

The BMB one is designed with a larger shank diameter than a standard bolt to minimize the slop that causes the wobbles between the bolt and the bushing. Basically the bolt shank diameter is a tighter fit to the bushing than you can get with a standard or even factory bolt. It’s a nice little setup, plus is strong and durable. Blaine designed that bolt setup along with the Johnny Joint washers which eliminates the cam bolt in the stock control arm brackets when running adjustable control arms.

A truetrac and stock aw4 are pretty gentle on any axle.

The underlying problem is the stock bolt diameter vs the thread size. It allows for the slightest amount of play between the track bar bushing and the bolt which eventually wallows out the hole over time. Fix the hole then run one of these: https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Heavy-Duty-Flag-Nut-with-ARP-high-strength-SS-Bolt-HD-FLAG-NUT-SS-BOLT.htm

I like my D35. There are some advantages to such a light weight axle too. All depends on what the end goal is

Somewhere I posted a thread on installing the CR Laurence rear window in my 91. There are some tricks to it but it can come out super clean with effort.