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You may find those shocks are too long. It’s a bit of a pain but it’s always best to wait until you get your lift on before measuring for shocks. Flipping that u bolt plate probably very nearly kept your original shocks in the original location. It may even be shorter???

The factory knee panel tweeter location actually isn’t bad for the fronts and provides decent imaging between the woofer and tweeter. Another possible thought with your system would be to run the components up front all in factory locations and add some Hertz or similar 5.25 mid bass drivers behind the b panels in the modded brackets. You could also fab up a bracket for a free air 6.5 woofer. With bucket seats though, components in back really do sound good with properly positioned tweeters. Provided that their is not a ton of crap behind the seats. @Minuit is right though, these trucks are loud and there isn’t much to quiet them down. I’ve also gone through significant effort (disassembling sheet metal panels and shells) to quiet down the cab and help contain the spl. It is dramatically better than stock but still not as good as a semi-used bmw.

Awesome, upload pics once you get them in and I’ll do the same when I get back. It’s great to have them posted for future reference

Added a NOS 28mm front XJ sway bar and an Addco 468 rear bar with extended links for my soa lift. John Wright @addco was super helpful to get the bar ordered up. He said they still make all the Comanche bars but that they don’t stock them or show them in their store anymore. Also, for future reference, there is an addco 570 front bar for the Comanche and a 516 for the XJ. So far I’ve only ever heard about people using the 516 on the front of their MJ’s and reporting it was too stiff. The 570 was designed to complement the 468 rear and has the same OD but is slightly softer. That being said, I found my NOS 28mm bar and opted to use that for the front after seeing @HOrnbrod’s post.

Sure thing, but I won’t be back home until early July.

I welded on some new curved shock tabs from ruff stuff. But I believe many have reused the old ones as well

Good to know, I planned to use the Morel tweeters in these brackets also

Yeah, it takes some adjusting but once it’s adjusted it’s a super smooth operation. Much better than all the factory linkage.

Funny you should ask. I have the rugged ridge ones and they don’t fit the floor well due to the extra floor brace running up the center. The weathertech, quadratec and RR all have the same “liner” style design that, although it fits the general shape of the floor, doesn’t contour like it should. I just picked up some Husky 51082 liners. They are the closest to oem Mopar slush mats I have ever seen aside from the actual “Jeep” logo. These mats come in (3) colors and the part numbers are 51081, 51082, and 51083. Because they don’t have the “liner” lip, they can contour to the floor just like oem much better and are true slush mats. That’s the best thing I’ve personally found so far.

Yep, just ordered a pair myself along with a smattering of other oem odds and ends parts

Just ordered up a fresh set of parts from Iron Man. Going to do their track bar system with cross brace with 1” drop (will also use the 1” drop pitman arm). Also got the steering box brace. Looking forward to the install probably near the end of next month when it all comes in. Picked up some NOS Mopar odds and ends also. Pics to come

Each different frequency responds differently to the different materials and obstructions found behind your seat. Bench case buckets also makes quite a difference. The higher the frequency, the more it gets absorbed by things like upholstery and carpet. The lower frequencies are not nearly as susceptible to this. That’s why components aren’t the way to go in the b pillar. You need to get your higher frequencies up physically higher so they aren’t muffled and drowned out. The midbass frequencies will sound just find in the stock b pillar location. As has been suggested, try components in the back with tweeters mounted higher and either components or coax speakers up front.

Have you tried rock auto? They are super cheap and ship to me clear out in Guam for cheap. Canada should be much cheaper

Here you go. NOS and dirt cheap: https://teamcherokee.com/front-tweeter-speaker-set-oem-jeep-cherokee-1991-1996/

Lol, apologies, just saw that. I thought you were commenting on the OP’s issue.

Doesn’t @Minuit have them?

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Out of the oven and into the fire You may just have a bad slave cylinder. And just to clarify for the OP, there is no pre-bled master/slave combo for the internal slave setups.

Id try to on get any high frequencies higher up on the b pillar since they will be more absorbed by back of the seat and any other obstructions. Components work better for that purpose in the b pillar.

I did front and rear 5.25 Morel components & a sub

Negative. No plastic cut. Just had to mod the original bracket. The existing speaker grill is decent size and works well with 5.25 woofers

Everything is relative, but one must have some good tools and skill to accomplish this. The OP is new to the scene, learning very quickly, but let’s make sure to not oversimplify this rebuild. I’d do gear changes all day long before doing an ax15 rebuild. I’ve done one once and it was not a fun day. Ended up just getting another used tranny since I botched a synchro install on 2nd gear and didn’t realize it until I had it installed back in my Jeep. The OP hopefully won’t have the same issue. That was a painfully expensive effort lol. I’d prefer to setup gears all day long.

I did Morel 5.25 components in all 4 locations. The rears will take the 5.25 using the TJ 5.25 adapter from metra. You will about 1/4” of spacing to get them to fit just right and will need to modify the stock brackets a bit. Pretty easy to do. Add an amp and they will come alive. The tweeters should be mounted higher. I’m not going to get too specific with where I decided to put mine because it will spark an acoustic conversation that I don’t have time to discuss at the moment. Plus I’m about 8k miles away from my rig lol. All in all though, it’s one of the cleanest installs you can do using factory locations. Coaxial speakers behind the seat aren’t in a very good position. Components can be pretty decent though and of course, they can look like a factory install. Sound control is really key to getting the best performance out of a system like that.

An AX15 complete rebuild is quite a task. I’d recommend just doing the clutch and perhaps swapping to the 94+ bell-housing so you can use the external slave setup. If you do, use a Luk rep-set or HD clutch and a Timken throw out bearing. Rock auto carries the clutch and timken throw out bearing