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That’s the thing, they don’t normally get very hot. Thus no factory provision for a cooler like an automatic. CPS could be an issue but it does seem like the HO CPS were less finicky with heat than the Renix era ones. I have been having very similar issues on my HO and have narrowed it down to the cam sensor and/or coil. Both of these get plenty hot as well and can display similar symptoms. CPS handles ignition timing, cam sensor handles fuel timing. The HO will not run without the cam sensor. But all 3 of those items can behave in a similar fashion.

Those springs will settle a lot from where they are now. Between that and a 1” pitman drop you should be good. As Pete mentioned, make sure the track bar and drag link are approximately the same length and same angle. That is crucial to good handling. A 1” pitman drop and 1” track bar drop should be good with that TNT truss. What drop bracket are you using for the track bar? The track bar sees a lot of load and needs to be super solid. A cross brace for the track bar is very helpful. Do you have a winch, bumper or anything else getting mounted up front? Also, add a couple of plug welds to those threaded inserts for the heims. Especially helpful with the tubing you’re using which has a welded seam. Looking good so far!

What year D35 do you have?

You running heim steering? Post a pic of you setup when you can. I run ZJ steering o 5.5” of lift with no drop pitman and zero bind.

From the pic, that’s a nice stance. I don’t see any squat. Those RE coils will definitely settle also

Post pics of what it looks like. The rake is hard to measure unless you use the factory measuring points

That is one real issue. @Pete M it’s true that it’s similar to rim backspacing but a 2 piece adapter relies on 3 sets of fasteners per wheel. It’s a lot of bolts upon bolts upon bolts all grabbing into bits of aluminum.

I’m not talking about spacers guys. Spacers with longer studs are no problem. 1 piece adapters are ok too. 2 piece adapters are asking for trouble.

16” tires are much more common in metric sizes. Look for the metric equivalent to what you need like 305/70/16 or similar. There is one factor I’ll bring up as well, IMO 2 piece adapters are pushing it when it comes to safety. You now have 3 sets of fasteners. Also, a decent 2 piece adapter will be 2” thick. Any thinner and your really looking at thin mating surfaces. I’d recommend just getting some tires for whatever rims you happen to have or can get that fit those axles. Check your local tire shop for used tire availability. Junk yards too

FSJ 44’s are normally 6 lug. Is that what yours are? If so you would need some really expensive 2 piece lug adapters that would probably not be worth the cost.

An alternative would be the accel coil. It’s a Mopar recommended part

Get the wheel under it than adjust as you want

@eaglescout526 Can help you out

It’s all about the factory measuring points for ride height. The rear measurement will be approx 6” and the front 6.75”. That is a factory ride height from the FSM. This doesn’t mean that the front site .75” higher. After all, think about all the bends in the frame. If we were dealing with a frame that was absolutely flat on the bottom and perfectly parallel to the road that would be a whole different story. As many have stated though, you can simply adjust ride height to dial in what you need with minor adjustments like using an acos coil mount, a coil spacer and/or longer shackles. But if you were to take a stock truck that sits at stock original ride height and lifted it an equal amount both front and rear, you would preserve the factory rake. Leveling “kits” typically raise only the front of a vehicle to “level” the rig. But a kit that lifts equal amounts both front and rear over stock will preserve the factory rake. Keep in mind that lift height numbers given by manufacturers for springs are typically based on oem ride heights. Some rigs ride higher or lower than stock so you actual lift height varies from one vehicle to the next.

O2 replaced with NTK oem. No difference. It’s definitely not mechanical. Either the spark or fuel is cutting momentarily

To attain factory rake (which is about +/- 2”) the front measurement needs to be approx 3/4” higher than the rear using the above technique from the FSM.

I should note as well that I’m running an accel coil with dui cap and plug wires.

Here is the info: To attain factory rake (which is about +/- 2”) the front measurement needs to be approx 3/4” higher than the rear using the above technique from the FSM.

Have an interesting issue I’m trying to diagnose without firing the parts cannon at it. First off, 91 4.0 AW4. Engine is a custom built by me and I’ve build a lot of these engines. I’ve eliminated a mechanical issue and am combing through electrical. The issue first came up under spirited acceleration around 4K rpm. The speedometer was bouncing a bit (factory electric speedo) and it straight up felt like a speed limiter was hit. Almost like a fuel cut. Disconnecting the Speedo at the t case eliminated the issue interestingly enough. I swapped in a 94+ style speed sensor with the 8v reference line and it didn’t have that issue again. Not sure if it’s related but it was the first issue I had. More recently, I’ve had some stumbling under acceleration. Then it started stumbling occasionally while cruising. The stumble feels like a lack of spark and is very brief (approx 1sec). It may stumble a few times while cruising and feels like it wants to die. If i baby it along it pretty much never stumbles. Seems to get worse after driving stop and go traffic. If it’s cold, it almost never stumbles under hard acceleration. What I’ve done so far: fue pump and filter changed. Fuel pressure is holding steady. New NTK O2 sensor. New NTK CPS (zero difference between old and new CPS). I’m thinking maybe bad coil, or some distributor issues at this point. Please let me know you thoughts as if like to narrow this down a bit and get everyone’s input before I but the next part lol. Thanks on advance!

To maintain factory rake lift it the same amount. Soa lift 5.5” or so over stock. Front needs to be lifted 5.5 over stock as well and you will have factory rake. If you need to fine tune another 1/2” or so you can do shackles.

Then raise it an equal amount front and back and you’ll preserve the rake. The rake is built into the truck from the factory based on spring mounting points along with the springs themselves. Any lift that lifts the front and back equally will preserve the factory rake. If you raise the front more it will “level” it. If you raise the rear more you will exceed the factory rake

The factory rake is about 2.” Meaning if you lift the front 5.5 and the rear 5.5 you will have factory rake (it won’t be “leveled”). If you lift the rear 7.5 and the front 5.5 you will lift the rear a couple of inches over factory rake.

I’ve considered doing this before. Curious how the raptor liner sprays and how UV resistant it is. That’s the biggest issue I’ve seen is chalking and trapping moisture under the liner if not prepped. Otherwise I do like the idea of the durability. Seems like the cost is about the same though for base/clear vs a good bedliner job

You might want to see if they have another model coming out.