ghetdjc320

Ahh my bad, thanks

My .02 would be to steer clear of Rough Country

I think @schardein had one but not sure if he still does. Anyone have a clutch and brake pedal setup for a 91-96? Looking into an ax15 swap since one just popped up near me

Awesome, thanks Jeremy

Looks like you have an add-a-leaf in that leaf pack but hard to tell for sure in the pic. Not sure what the part is in that second pic. You should have a spring perch welded to the axle, u bolts that fit the axle diameter (approx 2.75) and a u bolt plate for 2.5” wide springs. The stock u bolt plates have the shock studs in them. Perhaps the wrong size u bolts where installed?? Take some more pics of the u bolts, perch, and springs.

If you have some oem connectors that would be great otherwise I’m using weatherpack connectors and possibly soldering the pins for the switches. Not sure but any input would be great. If someone has a 2dr xj cross cab wiring harness from a 91 with power locks and windows that would be fantastic

Anyone have a diagram for the switch pinouts and wiring for a diy harness build for power locks and windows? Planning on installing oem power locks and windows in my 91. I know @Minuit has a lot of good info on the topic and I’m sure others do as well. I’ll be building the harness myself so any detailed info would be great.

A lot also has to do with the road finish. You’ll need to look at a real time analyzer to see what frequencies are actually in the cab. This will give you db levels of the different frequencies. Without knowing what frequencies you are dealing with, it’s hard to do anything more specific than just a shotgun approach. For instance, new bushings, shocks or coil isolators may really help in certain cases or “road” noise. Motor and transmission mounts can also really make a difference as can leaf spring bushings.

That’s great! Not common, but great.

different size. The front and rears will all be 5.25” now.

Have some component speakers going on the b pillars.

Yep, but mine is from dominion sure seal

Yep it’s weld through copper primer

Fabbed up some new speaker brackets

Floor complete. Por 15 on any surface rust, and extra screw holes welded closed. 4 coats of epoxy paint.

Removed the remaining dynamat. It like trying to remove melted mozzarella cheese from a pizza lol. replaced a couple of more rust spots with some fresh metal. Seam sealer then epoxy primer coming up next.

Iirc one of those torx screws is a pin that holds the lock cylinder in place.

Nice clean new metal. Just finished applying all the seam sealer now.

The replacement pans are for an XJ which doesn’t have the upper brace with the seat mounting stud in it. The pan is fairly long and needs to be sandwiched under that upper frame casing.

More work. Had to make several patch panels for the inner rocker panel and the floor pan where it curves up to the firewall

They fit pretty well for aftermarket pans. The designs are definitely XJ. There sure are a lot of ways to increase the unibody strength that become apparent when the pans are out.

Progress

Yeah for sure! Interesting stuff

Just remove the knuckles from your existing 86 axle and hold on to them. You can discard the rest of the housing though. If the 98 axle is a 6cyl auto it likely has 3.55 gears.

I’m not sure how well the market will pick them up. It’s true there will eventually be no more but even the aftermarket stopped making them. People wanting to drop $1k on a big brake kit don’t typically modify a D30. They go with a bigger and stronger axle. Not sure but I doubt these knuckles will ever be worth much. Even Vanco had stopped using these knuckles when they were available o the aftermarket for $50/ea new and instead made an adapter bracket for the 90+ style. They use a similar style aftermarket knuckle now. There is also the WJ swap.